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Welding cracks in a K block

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George Emmanuel
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Welding cracks in a K block

Post by George Emmanuel » Mon Sep 26, 2011 7:06 pm

I've got a KLC for my '55 Sportsman and there are numerous cracks in the block. Both the spare blocks I have also have cracks. There is a company in Jacksonville Florida, and there are others across the US, that specialize in welding blocks by first heating them in a furnace. Has anyone on this board tried that procedure and what sort of results have you had?

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57 chris
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Post by 57 chris » Mon Sep 26, 2011 8:11 pm

When welding cast iron the part has to be heated to a given temperature(I don't know what that specific temp is)then the part is welded and re-heated then the temp is brought down slowly.
1957 18' SeaSkiff #SK 18675 "Knot Sure!"
1958 18' SeaSkiff #SK18722 "Wreckreation"

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drrot
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Post by drrot » Tue Sep 27, 2011 7:41 am

I had a manifold fixed. It was cut in half, fixed internally, then welded back together. When it was done there were no signs of welding on the outside. It was beautiful and has held up well. Get an estimate. My manifold was $1200 about ten years ago.
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1950 Chris-Craft 22' Sportsman U-22-1532
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Bill Basler
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Post by Bill Basler » Tue Sep 27, 2011 9:41 am

Crowes Custom Cast Welding is another such company.

http://www.castmetalwelding.com/

They specialize in welding cast iron and they use the methods noted above. I have never used them, but I am doing some homework on whether to weld an existing exhaust manifold, or try to find a replacement. This manifold is for an early vintage Mercruiser (for the Blue Bomb). I know if I look hard enough, I will find a factory replacement. There are reproductions made by Barr and Osco, but I have been told by someone who would know, that they are just not the same.

The manifold weighs about 65 lbs. With shipping and repair, I may be at the price of a replacement.

Jim, who did the work for you?
Bill Basler

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gebaker
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Crow's Cast Metal Welding

Post by gebaker » Tue Sep 27, 2011 3:38 pm

I have used Crow's Cast metal welding a couple of times with complete satisfaction about 5-6 years ago for a head weld and an absolutely wonderful water jacket piece that had eroded 60% away for a Universal Flexi-four. Better yet, if there is another or better way- or the cost will be more than the part is worth, they will tell you.

Gary

George Emmanuel
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Block Welding

Post by George Emmanuel » Tue Sep 27, 2011 7:40 pm

I've seen Crowe's ads. The company in Jacksonville is a commercial enterprise. They heat the block in an oven, do the welding and the cooling process and guarantee it. I was hoping someone might have used them. Also was looking for someone who has had their block done and had satisfactory results.

Shipping nowadays adds big dollars to a project and I was hoping to keep it close to home.

George Emmanuel
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Manifold replacement

Post by George Emmanuel » Tue Sep 27, 2011 7:42 pm

My manifold is borderline also. Any reproduction ones available for the KLs ?

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gebaker
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Crow or Crowes

Post by gebaker » Tue Sep 27, 2011 9:01 pm

The one in the link,and the one I am familiar with (Crow) is in Wisconsin. Must be a different one in Jacksonville.

I understand that all cast iron welding is done in a very hot oven- and they aren't all that rare. There were a couple in Iowa when I lived there- I just stuck with Crows because they knew boats and had connections with BSLOL.

Gary

dpetty
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Post by dpetty » Wed Sep 28, 2011 5:07 am

Just a thought, you may consider "J. B. Weld" around $4.00. Had good success on a hunting vehicle engine with a 4" crack. Even with cooling system pressure has never leaked. It's good stuff.

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John DeVries
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Post by John DeVries » Wed Sep 28, 2011 7:32 am

When restoration started on our 1955 Continental (ML engine) in 1990, there were six cracks in the block. I found two of them while lapping the valves and four more were found by magnaflux. The block was welded because it was original and, when done, would be of a known quality as opposed to a used replacement block.

As I remember, the block is heated to 1400° to remove impurities from the cast which keep welds from adhering. After the work is done, there is a long cool down period where the block warps somewhat. The cylinders were sleeved, the crank journals were align bored. Just about all of the machined surfaced were redone.

In 1990, all of this cost $1,000.00, which was probably less than east or west coast prices. The work was done by Williams Machine in Nevada,Iowa (now Monticello, IA).

From 1995 (launch year) to present, we have had only electrical or fuel problems.

Also, there was a nasty crack in the bottom rear area of the exhaust manifold that got the J.B Weld treatment. This repair has also has held up nicely.

John

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gebaker
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Williams Machine in Nevada, IA

Post by gebaker » Wed Sep 28, 2011 7:21 pm

Interesting that John noted that Williams Machine was his "cast iron welder" in Nevada, IA.

As I noted in an earlier post, there were other recommendations in IA when I made my decision to use Crow in WI. Although I never followed up with Williams, it was located in Nevada, IA (50 miles from me.)

Perhaps good Cast Iron welders are more scarce than I expected.

Gary

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Mark Campbell
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Post by Mark Campbell » Thu Sep 29, 2011 8:12 am

@dpetty. I agree . JB weld works for many application. I have found in Forums (Car or Boat) that unless a LOT of money is spent, some people do not believe it to be done best. It has been discussed here many times how Low the pressure is on these K's and if I were to find the price to repair a head or block for 1000 dollars I would certainly buy another Engine The engine could be in almost any condition and a head or block and the hundreds of extra parts that come with it and use to repair this and that. These are just my thoughts ...but I tend think out loud sometimes and say what many others may think and will never post.
Apprentice too Dale Tassell from 1985 till current. Too listen is to learn.

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George Emmanuel
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K Block welding

Post by George Emmanuel » Thu Sep 29, 2011 8:59 pm

The issue I have with buying another block is you don't know what you are getting until you've purchased it and disassembled it. I don't have an issue with using JB Weld in certain areas. Areas where there are extreme heating and cooling worry me and that's where I have cracks. The end of the block at the exhaust port has 3 openings: Water, exhaust and stud---I couldn't trust JB there. There are line cracks between the oval water passages that are separated by by a head stud--I would use JB there w/out worry.

Thanks for all the posts. I love the good advice I get!

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