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MBL is a PIA
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- Ken Miller
- Posts: 301
- Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2008 9:05 pm
- Location: Northwest Georgia
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MBL is a PIA
I have a 1950 U-22 with MBL power. During restoration the engine was "remanufactured", totally gone through, but came back missing and not running correctly. It was subsequently broken down and the heads shaved and seemed to be fixed. Then we had more episodes where after a few minutes of use it would begin cutting out and missing, etc. We noticed that there was a short segment of rubber hose spliced into the fuel line and some debris/sediment in the fuel bowl, so we ran an all new 3/8" copper fuel line from the tank to the pump and cleaned out the fuel bowl. While it ran for nearly three hours without any problem this past weekend, as we exited a no-wake zone and went to accelerate she began missing and cutting out. This is the behavior she has exhibited all along through many attempts to correct. It always happens after either going through a no wake zone, idling for a short period of time, or turning the boat off for a short period of time (i.e. stop to talk to a friend in another boat). Then when I go to accelerate it does this. It was also exhausting blue smoke at the time, and only at the time, this was happening. Otherwise, it ran like a scalded cat. Can anyone advise where to further troubleshoot? Thanks.
Ken Miller
Ken Miller
1951 Chris Craft U-22-1705 "Miss Cynthia"
what is the condition of your gas tank? could it be getting debris from the tank into the carb?
Tom King
http://www.ccmanuals.com
http://www.ccmanuals.com
- Ken Miller
- Posts: 301
- Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2008 9:05 pm
- Location: Northwest Georgia
- Contact:
During restoration the tank was removed, cleaned, lined and re-installed. I now realize I would have been better off with a new tank and wish I had done this. I have pulled the fuel bowl and found a small amount of very fine black sediment (finer than sugar):
Thanks for any replies.
Ken Miller.
Thanks for any replies.
Ken Miller.
1951 Chris Craft U-22-1705 "Miss Cynthia"
Ken,
Try running it feeding from a small fuel can. Put a hose barb inthe fuel pump and put some fuel hose on it to the can. Have someone hold it while you go for a ride. Leave the engine box on shore.
Try running it feeding from a small fuel can. Put a hose barb inthe fuel pump and put some fuel hose on it to the can. Have someone hold it while you go for a ride. Leave the engine box on shore.
Jim Staib
www.finewoodboats.com
1947 Penn Yan 12' Cartopper WXH474611
1950 Chris-Craft 22' Sportsman U-22-1532
1957 Chris-Craft 26' Sea Skiff SK-26-515
1968 Century 17' Resorter FG-68-174
www.finewoodboats.com
1947 Penn Yan 12' Cartopper WXH474611
1950 Chris-Craft 22' Sportsman U-22-1532
1957 Chris-Craft 26' Sea Skiff SK-26-515
1968 Century 17' Resorter FG-68-174
It sounds like a vapor lock or fuel boiling situation. After sitting or idleing it would have time for the fuel to heat up in the lines as you are not using as much.
Check the route on the fuel lines. Did they get moved, are they to close to the engine where they might be getting excess heat?
Is the intake getting proper water flow? Check to see if it is getting hot. It could be boiling the fuel. That is why they have water lines cooling intakes on boats. Possibly one of the water jackets got plugged while putting the engine back together. To much sealant or a gasket shift can cause that. The line injecting water into the manifold could be corroded or plugged as well.
Just a few thoughts. I had an old dodge that loved to vapor lock on me, especially after idling for a long time.
Good luck, be sure to let us all know what you find!
Check the route on the fuel lines. Did they get moved, are they to close to the engine where they might be getting excess heat?
Is the intake getting proper water flow? Check to see if it is getting hot. It could be boiling the fuel. That is why they have water lines cooling intakes on boats. Possibly one of the water jackets got plugged while putting the engine back together. To much sealant or a gasket shift can cause that. The line injecting water into the manifold could be corroded or plugged as well.
Just a few thoughts. I had an old dodge that loved to vapor lock on me, especially after idling for a long time.
Good luck, be sure to let us all know what you find!
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming 'WOW What a Ride!'"
Just purchased my first Chris, 1959 conqueror - It's going to be an interesting ride!
Just purchased my first Chris, 1959 conqueror - It's going to be an interesting ride!
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I have found the water jacket going around the intake passage on M series intake manifolds can get totally clogged up and not let weater through. AND, the clog can remain moist enough to freeze in the winter and break out that section of the manifold. So there is a possibility that your intake charge is not getting cooled.
I spent many hours with a heated and bent piece of 1" flat bar with it's edge ground down to a sharp point, chiseling the hard, solidified sediment out of the passages (one of them on a replacement manifold) on my cruiser. It was extremely hard work, the rounded passage is extremely hard to work in.
After I had the passages cleaned out, I drilled and tapped drain holes in the manifolds for removable plugs so that they could be drained and cleaned out.
I spent many hours with a heated and bent piece of 1" flat bar with it's edge ground down to a sharp point, chiseling the hard, solidified sediment out of the passages (one of them on a replacement manifold) on my cruiser. It was extremely hard work, the rounded passage is extremely hard to work in.
After I had the passages cleaned out, I drilled and tapped drain holes in the manifolds for removable plugs so that they could be drained and cleaned out.
Bret
1953 35' Commander "Adonis III"
1970 23' lancer project
1953 35' Commander "Adonis III"
1970 23' lancer project
sediment is a concern. the jets on a zenith carb are easy to block. I would recommend trying what Jim Staib suggested.
Tom King
http://www.ccmanuals.com
http://www.ccmanuals.com
Trying what Jim said would at least isolate the problem.
Right now we don't know.
Seems like it could be sediment in the bulb. You slow down and use less gas so it isn't flowing rapidly & the crap settles , then when more gas is called for the crap in the sediment bulb mixes with the increased flow and impedes the gas flow.
I had a car that acted that way years ago. It turned out to be a screen at the input to the carb that was being blocked when more fuel was called for. Cleaned the screen and problem gone.
Right now we don't know.
Seems like it could be sediment in the bulb. You slow down and use less gas so it isn't flowing rapidly & the crap settles , then when more gas is called for the crap in the sediment bulb mixes with the increased flow and impedes the gas flow.
I had a car that acted that way years ago. It turned out to be a screen at the input to the carb that was being blocked when more fuel was called for. Cleaned the screen and problem gone.
Gary R Braker
- Ken Miller
- Posts: 301
- Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2008 9:05 pm
- Location: Northwest Georgia
- Contact:
This past weekend I had a mechanic friend (used to be a Ford dealership service manager, has had Jeeps etc. with Herc engines) go out on the boat with me---he said the same thing, sounds like a vapor lock/fuel boiling situation or definitely a fuel failure issue.Capn Taz wrote:It sounds like a vapor lock or fuel boiling situation.
First let me say what has most recently been done to the boat and any feedback would be greatly appreciated. The boat has a brand new Rayco fuel tank, brand new 3/8" copper fuel line (no rubber spliced in as was before I got the boat), new coil, new plugs. Re-manufactured MBL with Pertronix and 12v conversion. Running with 100% petroleum ethanol-free 93 octane fuel.
We idled out of the no-wake zone and went to accelerate (2400-2500 RPM) and the boat immediately began cutting out just like it always has. Mechanic observed the boat for several minutes (at 2400-2500 RPM--not even planed off) before adjusting anything. After 10-15 minutes, he touched the fuel line--it was not even hot. He began adjusting the carb setting, a little at a time and even back to where it was (my point here is he did not go hog wild and screw up the settings all at once). After 20-30 minutes he got to a point where he had both screws completely out and the boat was still having the same symptoms (2400-2500 RPM, cutting out--not planed off). He covered both holes with his fingers, and then uncovered them quickly, and then covered them again, and the boat didn't even show any signs of his manipulation. He also noticed that at the same time the engine cuts in and out air bubbles come into the fuel bowl. He was able to manually manipulate the butterfly to open all the way and the boat ran (redline) at 3100 RPM smooth as silk. His advice to me is to buy a new fuel pump and a new carburetor and start from scratch. Can anyone make any observations from this and offer any further advice? Thanks in advance for any responses.
Ken Miller
Last edited by Ken Miller on Thu Sep 22, 2011 5:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1951 Chris Craft U-22-1705 "Miss Cynthia"
- maritimeclassics
- Posts: 700
- Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2007 4:35 pm
- Location: Traverse City, Mi
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I went through the same thing once, it turned out to be the fuel pump. The pump was not bad but was on the way out.
Family member of Chris Craft founder
Owner of Maritime Classics
http://www.maritimeclassics.com
Ph# 231-486-6148
Restoration Projects:
1936 25' Gar Wood Custom
1947 Ventnor Hydroplane
1957 17' Deluxe Runabout
1948 25' Chris Craft Sportsman Twin
1959 19' Sliver Arrow Hull #75
1929 26' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
1937 25' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
Owner of Maritime Classics
http://www.maritimeclassics.com
Ph# 231-486-6148
Restoration Projects:
1936 25' Gar Wood Custom
1947 Ventnor Hydroplane
1957 17' Deluxe Runabout
1948 25' Chris Craft Sportsman Twin
1959 19' Sliver Arrow Hull #75
1929 26' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
1937 25' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
All posts here are leaning toward fuel.. which might very well be the problem but if all else fails check your ignition system, points etc. These symptoms sound a lot like a problem I had that was a bad set of points!
Craig
Craig
1957 18' SeaSkiff #SK 18675 "Knot Sure!"
1958 18' SeaSkiff #SK18722 "Wreckreation"
Past projects: 1972 19' Lancer with 307 Volvo drive-Great Blue, 1968 23' Lancer Offshore with 283 Volvo drive-Narwahl
1988 FourWinns 245 Vista - Blue Ayes.
It's good to have wood!
1958 18' SeaSkiff #SK18722 "Wreckreation"
Past projects: 1972 19' Lancer with 307 Volvo drive-Great Blue, 1968 23' Lancer Offshore with 283 Volvo drive-Narwahl
1988 FourWinns 245 Vista - Blue Ayes.
It's good to have wood!
Have you tried with regular points, w/o the Pertonix? I had a similar experience years ago on an old Firebird car. Put points back in place of electronic ignition and all was well. The old ohc 6 would hit 7000 rpm easily. Was a head turner back in the day. sometimes the electronic ignitions have little issues. Easy to test anyway.
Good luck, keep us posted...
Good luck, keep us posted...
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