Should sit like this

You need to screw the neck back in.

Most likely a Sherwood. Remove the four 1/4-20 screws and the part number will be on the mating surface.

Chris-Craft 283 parts book.

Here is an OPP engine with the gear on the end of the cam

Here is a shot from the parts book

Runs off the end of the cam. Small gear with different size teeth.

Gives it a lower profile to clear the engine hatch.

The numbers are for the rear motor mount. The reverse gear is a Paragon 2XE.
Another issue if it has been converted they/you have to drill the crankshaft to get oil pressure to the inside of the gear.

steve bunda wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 24, 2021 9:22 am

That's the trim , I will purchase a piece. Is it pointed on both ends?
Thanks, steve

Comes in 4ft. sections. pointed on one end. Have some 8ft. pieces that are pointed both ends but they have to be picked up.

The trim is actually Stainless snapped over the base.

Could be. Go through the steps then press "Preview" If the photo does not show go back and try again.

Try the photos again. They have to be small.

THANKS for the recommendation but we are out! Working on a repair kit but it will be some time before completion.

This help?

Did you try McCormick at Milwaukee and Bryan?

Here is the way it is in THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE [attachment=0]27sedan.jpg[/attachment]

I'd start with a temp gun to make sure the gauges are accurate. Handy in the kitchen when this project is over. If they are accurate swap the water pumps. Remember that the inlet/outlet change with engine rotation.

You mention the port engine is running warm. How warm? Is there a noticeable difference in water output when they both run at idle?

Find a photo of the part you need and post it. Might also help to post a photo of where it mounts.

There are a lot of places that deliver RV's from the Elkhart Indiana area and are always looking for a load back.

THANKS for the photo. I need motivation to work on mine

Pretty much. Check out http://www.finewoodboats.com/1966prop50052_wm.jpg It will give you some ideas.

Mine has the original M Runs a 13X12.5

The object is to find out the Max RPM of your engine. (Probably about 4000) Then use the prop that allows max RPM at wide open throttle. No idea on Max speed. Should be around the original 29. Remember you lost cubic inches. Keep us posted. I have been working on my Skiff for years and the only time...

Does it have a direct drive or reduction gear? With direct drive I'd start with a 13X10 prop. With a 1.5-1 gear I'd start with a 15X17

Here is a 2 Two barrel set up someone made for an MBL

I'd check to make sure it would clear the cover.

What kind of engine did it originally have?

I Googled the boat and found it listed on BOAT TRADER for $29,500 and at a broker for $45000.
Nice looking boat. There is no way to establish value on such a low production craft. Sorta depends on the quality of the boat and how much you like it. I'd check in to insurance first.