I have used Ezy poxy for about 15 years and found it a very good finish paint on wood, fiberglass and steel. Have a wherry done about 12 years ago...only problem was fading in intense sun.

If you do use this method, keep a photo trail to illustrate what you have done.
Maybe try a diagonal layer similar to the bottoms

could the copper be the old self bailer? If you are not going for a show boat but a go boat....I would consider replacing that gal. metal with pvc.....but hey, the gal. lasted a long time anyway...going with it again would be fine John in Va. The self bailer would be where the hole is below the eng...

Galvanized gutter drain pipe was the norm. I am more concerned about the rubber hoses if they are fuel related...meaning that the fuel tank and supply may not be properly grounded.

Ain't got any

Captain Nemo wrote:We try to do the best we can with what we have to work with. I'm sure your finished product will look great!

Boat owner's lament...just one more coat

The bunks should flex a bit to follow the shape of the hull

I would think you have 12-18" to go forward if that tape is any indication, assuming you have a stop.

Hell. I'll trade you the trailer I have for a 17' for those hubcaps....

it looks to me that the axle should come back another foot to compensate for fuel and tranny weight or the boat forward (can you show pict of complete trailer?. I can't remember what the weight ratio should be on the tounge. (10-1 or 200 lbs)

HOW ABOUT A PICTURE OF THE BOAT ON THE TRAILER. MY THOUGHTS WERE TO HAVE THE ENGINE WEIGHT OVER THE AXLE

I'll confirm with a friend this weekend, but I remember natural ash with similar color tapes.

Trailer for 17' CC that kneels and hydraulically raises boat. Also patented and no winch

Calling Martha Stewart. Calling Martha Stewart.

I built this from plans for a cruiser

I agree with the cradle on wheels, I recommend you use spreaders if you lift with straps as I have seen, especially lapstrake boats, that were squeezed and crushed.

Can't post as http://www.tradingdock.org/register.php?b=1 gives message i,m using bad username and password.

From Stancraft
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EgA4Ji7kYRI

Having my wood Grand Banks on Lake Washington, I was able to go into Puget Sound and open sea-cocks allowing saltwater into bilge. When going back up into the lake, I was able to pump out the saltwater...an easy way to "pickle" the wood and clean any growth off the bottom.

This takes time but does not need lifting equipment and can be done by one person. Drop the bow, by cranking the handle on the trailer jack, which will raise the stern, place cinder blocks and 2x4's under the stern. Crank the handle on the trailer jack to raise the bow, which will lift the stern off...

Some boats are listed in http://www.chris-craft.org/registry/ and ACBS has member registries.

I do not sand between coats and usually apply any additional coats if the paint does not go on smooth. It has to be mixed after each brush and goes on as dry as possible.

Sorry wrong lens. I have a correct lense...but it's blue

here's a similar
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Perko-B ... 2363756761

Looks good, when you get it perfected you will have a product to sell.

bronze/copper

Tracking boat history if one of the hardest but more rewarding tasks for a classic boater. It is rather fun to see just how far a particular boat has traveled in its lifetime...[/quote]



Maybe John in VA has the record with his Argentinian Ark.

I would feel safer terminating the hose through the vent as Terry has done.

Bilge Rats know how to install a bilge blower

What I should have emphasized....many Atwood lenses are the same. Buy the light, remove lenses, trash the purchased light.