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Side Planking

Framing, planking and fairing. Repair, or reconstruction. If it's hull related, you'll find it here.

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tuobanur
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Side Planking

Post by tuobanur » Mon Sep 08, 2008 1:16 pm

Several years back on this same site I ask the question about bottom construction and received a very informative response from a gentle man that went by the name of Mo. In Mo’s response he indicated that a lot of his information came from Don Danenberg and I have to say that the information has been very helpful, I finally completed the inter planking on my boat this weekend and would like to thank Mr. Mo and Mr. Danenberg for there help.
My question now is [and has probably been asked before]; with the bottom construction it was recommended to leave a small gap between boards [which I did] for expansion and to allow the 5200 to get between the edges of each board. Soon I will be putting the second layer on the transom and doing the side planking which seems to me would need to be tight together, above the water line, for the right look, what is the procedure for installing the side planking?

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Terry
1941 Model 101 (16') Deluxe Runabout "Miss Dot"

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Kerry Price
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Post by Kerry Price » Mon Sep 08, 2008 4:43 pm

tuobanur,

The construction method for planking the bottom and topsides are indeed different. You will want to get the topside planks above the waterline dead tight. The easiest and fastest way to do this is a process referred to as the router method. Once again you should be refereed to Don Danenberg who has written a couple of very good books on this and most other aspects of restoration. He has an entire chapter on this method with picture on how to set up your router.
Kerry
1946 20' Custom Runabout: R-20-092
1938 19' Sportsman: 19501
http://www.chris-craft.org/registry/vie ... oat_id=532

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tuobanur
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Planking

Post by tuobanur » Tue Sep 09, 2008 9:12 am

Thanks Kerry

I know the method for sizing the boards I'm interested in the bonding of the boards, do you put any type of adhesive between the edges of each?

Also, I know that the most common method for the bottom planking is running the inter planking diagonal [as I did] and the outer longitudinal but is there any reason for not running the outer layer diagonal in the opposite direction of the inter layer?
Terry
1941 Model 101 (16') Deluxe Runabout "Miss Dot"

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maritimeclassics
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Post by maritimeclassics » Tue Sep 09, 2008 12:11 pm

To get a better sense of what you have, what thickness is your bottom diagonal planking and are you trying to keep with traditional construction? It looks like you have a real good start. I always use 5200 to bed side planking and it has worked well for me in the past with very little seam movement. I like to spread the 5200 over the entire new battens and I highly stress NEW BATTENS! I have seen in the past a lot of work done to a boat an then they use the old battens; to me this is a very bad short cut in construction. Something new I tried this year was to add a little epoxy to the edge (your planking needs to be very tight or you will see epoxy line thought the stain) of you planking with some filler added to the epoxy. What I am trying to do is completely eliminate the movement of the seems, that we spend so much time staining and then apply so many coats of varnish.
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Owner of Maritime Classics
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Ph# 231-486-6148

Restoration Projects:
1936 25' Gar Wood Custom
1947 Ventnor Hydroplane
1957 17' Deluxe Runabout
1948 25' Chris Craft Sportsman Twin
1959 19' Sliver Arrow Hull #75
1929 26' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
1937 25' Chris Craft Custom Runabout

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tuobanur
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Thickness

Post by tuobanur » Tue Sep 09, 2008 1:58 pm

The inter layer is 1/4" and I plan to use 5/16" for the outer layer. I guess you could say I'm going with traditional construction and I realize that would entail longitudinal outer layer but sense it can't be seen, so to speak, and I'm not set up for steaming I've been considering the diagonal route. I ask the question because I don't want to do something that may give me trouble down the road.

So you use 5200 to bed the side planking and also epoxy the seams, do you ever have problems with the boards wanting to split from contraction?
Terry
1941 Model 101 (16') Deluxe Runabout "Miss Dot"

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maritimeclassics
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Post by maritimeclassics » Tue Sep 09, 2008 2:41 pm

This is the first time I used the epoxy, and only use it on the sides. I think if the plank is going to crack it is going to do no matter what you do. You should be able to bend the planks on the bottom with out steaming, I have never had to steam any planks on boats built that early. The ones I steam were boats in the late forties and fifties; they have a lot more sheer to them. The way I do it is start at the front and use fender washes so you don’t split the plank where the hole is drilled (that’s the weak spot). Drill only the holes that you need to hold the plank down properly. Then in a few days after all the planks are on I remove the plank closest to the keel bed it, drill all the hole, put the remanding screws in and on to the next one. This is just the way I have always done it and get good results even know it may take a little longer. I guess to answer the question on diagonal planks is that I would not do it.
Family member of Chris Craft founder
Owner of Maritime Classics
http://www.maritimeclassics.com
Ph# 231-486-6148

Restoration Projects:
1936 25' Gar Wood Custom
1947 Ventnor Hydroplane
1957 17' Deluxe Runabout
1948 25' Chris Craft Sportsman Twin
1959 19' Sliver Arrow Hull #75
1929 26' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
1937 25' Chris Craft Custom Runabout

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tuobanur
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Epoxy Seams

Post by tuobanur » Tue Oct 07, 2008 9:09 am

Family Member, when you epoxy the seams on the side planking how do you keep the 5200 from squeezing out and mixing with the epoxy? I completed the transom this past week and had planned to epoxy the seams but ended up using the 5200 instead, couldn't keep it off the seams.
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Terry
1941 Model 101 (16') Deluxe Runabout "Miss Dot"

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tom king
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Post by tom king » Tue Oct 07, 2008 12:32 pm

Bet it was Mo Sherrell.

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maritimeclassics
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Post by maritimeclassics » Thu Oct 09, 2008 4:33 pm

You need to keep you seams tight and only spread the 5200 on the batten. I try not to get any 5200 on the edges. I have done testing with the epoxy and 5200 because I had concerns the it would react poorly if mixed together, I found that no matter what you did the epoxy always dried hard. I just use a small amount of epoxy with filler in it applied with a syringe to one edge and the make sure that seam is real tight.
Family member of Chris Craft founder
Owner of Maritime Classics
http://www.maritimeclassics.com
Ph# 231-486-6148

Restoration Projects:
1936 25' Gar Wood Custom
1947 Ventnor Hydroplane
1957 17' Deluxe Runabout
1948 25' Chris Craft Sportsman Twin
1959 19' Sliver Arrow Hull #75
1929 26' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
1937 25' Chris Craft Custom Runabout

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tuobanur
Posts: 425
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Location: Summerville, SC

Update

Post by tuobanur » Thu Oct 16, 2008 9:31 am

Family Member, you were right didn't need to steam, got the first plank on last night without a hitch.
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Terry
1941 Model 101 (16') Deluxe Runabout "Miss Dot"

cenger
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Post by cenger » Thu Oct 16, 2008 12:09 pm

Can Someone recommend a good quality small router to fit the side planks? I see laminate routers that range from $100 for a Bosch to $400 for a Festool.

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maritimeclassics
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Post by maritimeclassics » Thu Oct 16, 2008 1:15 pm

Nice job! Looks great the next one might be the hardest and the the rest are a piece of cake. The best one to get is the Porter Cable and then make yourself a little fence.
Family member of Chris Craft founder
Owner of Maritime Classics
http://www.maritimeclassics.com
Ph# 231-486-6148

Restoration Projects:
1936 25' Gar Wood Custom
1947 Ventnor Hydroplane
1957 17' Deluxe Runabout
1948 25' Chris Craft Sportsman Twin
1959 19' Sliver Arrow Hull #75
1929 26' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
1937 25' Chris Craft Custom Runabout

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