KLC long-block expectations

[msindel]

When ordering a Chris-Craft KLC long-block from someone selling "Rebuilt Antique & Classic Marine Engines"

What should I expect to get?

Main bearings, rod bearings, pistons?
Any machine work? Valves or otherwise...
Nut & bolt replacement as needed?

I'd really like to hear others opinion on this subject.

[Riviera Wish]

Very interesting question. With an OHV engine you would not get the heads, valves, etc. with a "long block". In the case of a 'K' engine the valves are IN the block. It seems to me the only real answer to the question is the answer the supplier of the long block gives. Will be interested in viewing other comments and in particular what engine builders / suppliers might say. I'll stay tuned.

[msindel]

According to the builder, I would reuse my drive, both manifolds, carb, fuel pump, generator, starter, water pump, and ignition system. He said the flywheel and head would be on and torqued.

The price quoted was $5846.00 which includes 4 new engine mounts and a core charge.

[jfrprops]

ummm? how much do they value the exchange at? core charge.

just wondering....

John in Va.

[msindel]

Mounts are $69 a piece for $276 of the total.
I know I can get them from Jim for $50 each, but convenience is considered.

I think Core charge is $1300

So, around $4300 for the long block...

Everything (main, rod, and cam bearings, pistons, valves, springs, guides, seats, sleeves, oil pump kit, gaskets) costs around $2550 retail

[drrot]

My prices are plainly posted at http://www.finewoodboats.com/Hercules%2 ... 0Parts.htm
Below are KLC parts prices. Way less than $2550


Pistons with rings .030 and .060 $399set

Main bearings: .010, .020, .030 $199

Rod bearings: STD, .010, .020, .030, and .040 $150

Copper head gaskets $99

Gasket set with Copper head gasket $299

Motor mounts $50ea

Valves $20ea

Valve guide $8

Valve spring 46043A $7

Engine Paint $9.95can

Cylinder head studs 3 7/8” 130000PSI $7.00

Cylinder head stud 4 ½” for water outlet $7.50

Tall nuts 7/16 or 11/16” $1.50

Cam bearings $39

[maritimeclassics]

A warranty would be one of the things that I would ask for. We have them rebuilt at CD's Engine Services and they go through everything for about $6000. The great thing when doing it this way is that everything is rebuilt, carb, generator, starter, distributor,
fuel pump then tested and it comes with a warranty. In my opinion that's the way an engine in a boat should be done. To many things can be over looked and even know you have a rebuilt block so many other things can make the engine not run or not function properly.

[msindel]

Jim, thanks for pointing out the generous parts quote. I'm also including sleeves, valve seats & keepers, and a handful of nuts & bolts.

Maritimeclassics has varified my expectations exactly. And for the price, is what I would expect.

However, would you try to make good on a warranty after pulling the motor apart to find bunch of old used parts, no sealants on any gaskets, rings not gapped, an old broken bolt, several broken lock washers, and shot in the motor? When called about the old parts, he said they were good enough. When told about the shot, he said impossible, but send it back.

When I say old parts, there were 3 new exhaust valves the rest were old, guides had 0.010+ of clearance, an old valve keeper fell in two when removed, original cam bearings...

I had already rebuilt my carb, fuel pump, and put a new bearing, a sleeve, and the three seals in my drive back in December. In January the machine shop said there was a crack in my block. Found a KL block, it was cracked. Found a KLO engine, disassembled, block cracked...

Thought a long-block would be an easy out, but...

I don't feel I can send the motor back for a warranty without needing to totally disassemble it when I get it back a second time. It took 2 months to get the first...

I'm already suffering the BRD this year, but the 90' weather has really set it off.

I think my machine shop would be a better way to go at this point...

Opinions?

[jim g]

When rebuilding these blocks a lot of them will have one or more cracks in the deck. Some of the cracks there is no need to worry about them. Some will need to be pinned. A job that any good machine shop can do. Then there are a few cracks in certain places that just make the block no good.

One of the most important things that needs to be done is to have all the cylinders sleeved. I think I have had 3 or 4 engines in the last 20 years that were built by others that opened up a pin hole in the cylinder wall.

If the rebuilt engine you got with all the old parts in it is from who I think it is. I have taken apart 2 motors from them and the only new items in them were main and rod bearings and a turn crank. One of the old pistons had a crack across the top. Also these engines had never been run when I got them from the person who bought them.

[climax21]

In reference to Long Blocks
Long Block in todays terms is "Usually" in reference to modern type over head valve engines. Short Block (rebuilt) is a
block with heads. "Some" re-man companys have added stamped oil pan (automotive) and intakes as part of their
"Long Block" package. "Bob Tail" is also used as "Complete Engine" less transmission. The "Long Blocks" we build as a standard are rebuilt block with ALL new parts, cylinder head, oil pump, and oil pan.
We also build a COMPLETE ENGINE PACKAGE as well
We stock all related engine parts for Chris-Craft engines. Motor Mounts, pistons, bearings, valves, pumps, starters, generators,
props, struts, rudders and shafts. Visit our website at:
http://www.chris-craft-parts.com or http://www.chris-craft-parts.net Robert Henkel