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Cockpit floor
Moderators: Don Ayers, Al Benton, Don Vogt
Re: Cockpit floor
Well yet another month has passed, and the boat is progressing . 870 plugs now fitted to the transom. Following a trip to LL Johnson last week, scraped the bottom of the pile for the last of the Douglas Fur for the floor. Cockpit floor is now being fitted.
Question is, Is the caulking on the floor white or black?
Steve
Question is, Is the caulking on the floor white or black?
Steve
Re: Cockpit floor
LOOKING GOOD!
Mine are black.
Mine are black.
Troy in ANE - Former President CCABC
1957 CC 21' Continental "Yorktown" (Mom's boat)
https://www.chris-craft.org/boats/22625/
1985 Formula 242LS "Gottago"
1991 Formula 36PC "Band Aids"
Life Is Too Short To Own An Ugly Boat
1957 CC 21' Continental "Yorktown" (Mom's boat)
https://www.chris-craft.org/boats/22625/
1985 Formula 242LS "Gottago"
1991 Formula 36PC "Band Aids"
Life Is Too Short To Own An Ugly Boat
Re: Cockpit floor
So we have one black seam seal, one white seam seal, I was hoping for a better consensus. Anyway the work goes on and now that the rear floor is fitted it is time to get to the next problem spot.
Some past owner decided to plug the forward deck drains with silicon years ago. We cleaned them out last year but the damage was done. Removed the bow trim to reveal the extent of the damage.
Some past owner decided to plug the forward deck drains with silicon years ago. We cleaned them out last year but the damage was done. Removed the bow trim to reveal the extent of the damage.
Re: Cockpit floor
There's a little rot there, but it's not a disaster. Looks like the stem is structurally hanging in there and the decks not bad. I'd cut back the deck planks a bit, repair the under structure with Dutchmen and epoxy, patch in the deck and replace the trim. There's nothing wrong with seeing some repair joinery on an old boat if it's done nicely. It becomes part of her history. I vote for black caulk in the deck seams.
Re: Cockpit floor
AB's drains were plugged and painted over when i got her too.
Luckily she had not been outside much if at all since it had been done.
Luckily she had not been outside much if at all since it had been done.
Troy in ANE - Former President CCABC
1957 CC 21' Continental "Yorktown" (Mom's boat)
https://www.chris-craft.org/boats/22625/
1985 Formula 242LS "Gottago"
1991 Formula 36PC "Band Aids"
Life Is Too Short To Own An Ugly Boat
1957 CC 21' Continental "Yorktown" (Mom's boat)
https://www.chris-craft.org/boats/22625/
1985 Formula 242LS "Gottago"
1991 Formula 36PC "Band Aids"
Life Is Too Short To Own An Ugly Boat
Re: Cockpit floor
Well it has been a busy 4 months since the last update, and a lot has happened. Refitted the fuel tanks, moved the waste water tank out towards the port side. Fitted the new 3 1/2" copper exhausts that we made, made new battery holders and containers.
We ended up taking the forward deck off as there was also rott under the port windshield and port side window. Fitted new bow drains, repainted the forward Vee berth.
And now there is more paintwork than woodwork now happening.
Pictures to follow
Steve
We ended up taking the forward deck off as there was also rott under the port windshield and port side window. Fitted new bow drains, repainted the forward Vee berth.
And now there is more paintwork than woodwork now happening.
Pictures to follow
Steve
Re: Cockpit floor
Great to hear from you again and see the progress. Looks like you've definitely shifted from repair mode to full blown restoration mode. It the best way to go at it if you can. You'll have a beautiful boat there when your finished. Keep us posted as you go along. We love photos of work in progress. Good Luck and Carry On!
Re: Cockpit floor
That deck looks GREAT!
What product are you using to caulk?
What product are you using to caulk?
Troy in ANE - Former President CCABC
1957 CC 21' Continental "Yorktown" (Mom's boat)
https://www.chris-craft.org/boats/22625/
1985 Formula 242LS "Gottago"
1991 Formula 36PC "Band Aids"
Life Is Too Short To Own An Ugly Boat
1957 CC 21' Continental "Yorktown" (Mom's boat)
https://www.chris-craft.org/boats/22625/
1985 Formula 242LS "Gottago"
1991 Formula 36PC "Band Aids"
Life Is Too Short To Own An Ugly Boat
Re: Cockpit floor
Thanks for the comments
As for caulk, I have used 3M 4000 white adhesive caulk, as it has a UV protection value and can be varnished over. Actually we stained the mahogany, then 3 coats of 1026 interlux sealer, then sealed the seams and cuts, now comes the varnish.
Steve
As for caulk, I have used 3M 4000 white adhesive caulk, as it has a UV protection value and can be varnished over. Actually we stained the mahogany, then 3 coats of 1026 interlux sealer, then sealed the seams and cuts, now comes the varnish.
Steve
Re: Cockpit floor
Troy
Another word of advise if you are going to re caulk the deck or a floor. Go to Lowes or Home Depot and buy a $50.00 battery powered caulking gun, because if you try and do it manually, the arms can't take it.
What I did was get a Ryobi 18v caulking gun, same batteries as the drill, and some $2.00 caulk from the surplus store, cut some groves in a piece of scrap lumber and practiced using the powered unit before putting the $20.00 tube in the gun and attempting an expensive screw up.
Also if you are right handed, practice doing this left handed, or opposite, as you can't get everywhere easily.
Just a little experience to help out.
Steve
Another word of advise if you are going to re caulk the deck or a floor. Go to Lowes or Home Depot and buy a $50.00 battery powered caulking gun, because if you try and do it manually, the arms can't take it.
What I did was get a Ryobi 18v caulking gun, same batteries as the drill, and some $2.00 caulk from the surplus store, cut some groves in a piece of scrap lumber and practiced using the powered unit before putting the $20.00 tube in the gun and attempting an expensive screw up.
Also if you are right handed, practice doing this left handed, or opposite, as you can't get everywhere easily.
Just a little experience to help out.
Steve
Re: Cockpit floor
Thanks Steve!
I was planning on doing my aft deck this spring, but due to a death in the family I have lost a lot of working time and expect to put it off till next year. That sounds like good solid advice. It is going to be tough going to buy a Ryobi, but I guess I will have to do it since Snap on does not make a caulking gun.
I was planning on doing my aft deck this spring, but due to a death in the family I have lost a lot of working time and expect to put it off till next year. That sounds like good solid advice. It is going to be tough going to buy a Ryobi, but I guess I will have to do it since Snap on does not make a caulking gun.
Troy in ANE - Former President CCABC
1957 CC 21' Continental "Yorktown" (Mom's boat)
https://www.chris-craft.org/boats/22625/
1985 Formula 242LS "Gottago"
1991 Formula 36PC "Band Aids"
Life Is Too Short To Own An Ugly Boat
1957 CC 21' Continental "Yorktown" (Mom's boat)
https://www.chris-craft.org/boats/22625/
1985 Formula 242LS "Gottago"
1991 Formula 36PC "Band Aids"
Life Is Too Short To Own An Ugly Boat
Re: Cockpit floor
Troy. Copy me and use orange shag carpet
Re: Cockpit floor
If enough of you do it, you may be able to convince future generations that it was original!
Steve A
1956 18' Chris-Craft Continental
1956 18' Chris-Craft Continental
Re: Cockpit floor
Actually, it was an option. Normal folks use green indoor/outdoor carpeting.ClassOf56 wrote:If enough of you do it, you may be able to convince future generations that it was original!
Re: Cockpit floor
More floor issues
We cut and replaced the cockpit floor as per original with Douglas Fur, and now screwing it down for the last time, I have run into a problem. How do you successfully cut plugs for the screw holes from douglas fur with out it splitting while cutting,or breaking up when tapping into the hole?
I did notice on the original floor that the plugs looked to be mahogany, but is it possible this was original?
Thanks in advance
Steve
We cut and replaced the cockpit floor as per original with Douglas Fur, and now screwing it down for the last time, I have run into a problem. How do you successfully cut plugs for the screw holes from douglas fur with out it splitting while cutting,or breaking up when tapping into the hole?
I did notice on the original floor that the plugs looked to be mahogany, but is it possible this was original?
Thanks in advance
Steve
Re: Cockpit floor
Steve. Are you in fact using Doug Fir. Lumber marked SPF (Spruce, Pine or Fir) is probably not Doug Fir, Depending where you are located. Straight grain DF will cut into plugs. What you are using may be too dry.srlittin wrote:More floor issues
We cut and replaced the cockpit floor as per original with Douglas Fur, and now screwing it down for the last time, I have run into a problem. How do you successfully cut plugs for the screw holes from douglas fur with out it splitting while cutting,or breaking up when tapping into the hole?
I did notice on the original floor that the plugs looked to be mahogany, but is it possible this was original?
Thanks in advance
Steve
Re: Cockpit floor
Doug
I got the last of a batch of V G doug fur from LL Johnson in Michigan last year. The finer grain pieces are a lot better than the wider grain. I probably tried to cut 500 plugs and ended up with 30 good ones.
Humidity here is up at the moment here in Ohio, didn't check the moisture content of the DG yet.
I would be concerned about raising the moisture content, and then having the plugs come loose later, or am I reading to much into this?
Steve
I got the last of a batch of V G doug fur from LL Johnson in Michigan last year. The finer grain pieces are a lot better than the wider grain. I probably tried to cut 500 plugs and ended up with 30 good ones.
Humidity here is up at the moment here in Ohio, didn't check the moisture content of the DG yet.
I would be concerned about raising the moisture content, and then having the plugs come loose later, or am I reading to much into this?
Steve
Re: Cockpit floor
I just tried Doug Fir. Actually no splitting and my humidity is very low.
I do not know if they used Doug Fir for bungs, Maybe mahogany was used.
I do not know if they used Doug Fir for bungs, Maybe mahogany was used.
Re: Cockpit floor
Well I checked the moisture content , 10-12%, that's good, tried soaking a piece, no change in the ability to cut good plugs. Tried cutting thru the grain at different angles, no change. Then borrowed another plug cutter from a co worker, slightly better cut, but still slow.
Finally found the problem. Both plug cutters while cutting good, were not clearing the chips from the cutter and jamming the plug in the cutter. I then re sharpened the plug cutter with more rake, and angled the cutting face to move the wood chips away from the plug.
Now cutting about 90%
I guess what was happening, the sawdust was jamming in the plug cutter with the plug and the heating up and stressing the plug. And then instantly drying and cracking the plug. Upon which made it impossible to install.
Never saw this while cutting the plugs from mahogany for the forward deck.
Hope this helps out in the future.
Thanks for the comments Doug
Steve
Finally found the problem. Both plug cutters while cutting good, were not clearing the chips from the cutter and jamming the plug in the cutter. I then re sharpened the plug cutter with more rake, and angled the cutting face to move the wood chips away from the plug.
Now cutting about 90%
I guess what was happening, the sawdust was jamming in the plug cutter with the plug and the heating up and stressing the plug. And then instantly drying and cracking the plug. Upon which made it impossible to install.
Never saw this while cutting the plugs from mahogany for the forward deck.
Hope this helps out in the future.
Thanks for the comments Doug
Steve
Re: Cockpit floor
Finally the floor is installed and all the bungs sanded off. Hopefully start staining tomorrow. This is what started this whole job. 8 months later, light at the end of the tunnel.
The other parts, well that's another story.
Steve
The other parts, well that's another story.
Steve
Re: Cockpit floor
Excellent job....
Can hardly see the bungs,-are you available for hire?
Can hardly see the bungs,-are you available for hire?
Re: Cockpit floor
Six months have gone by boat work has continued, the cockpit floor is completed, hull sides painted, windows removed and resealed, refrigerator refitted to the galley, and refinished the forward cabin.
Removal of the garboard planks next to the keel because of cracking was interesting but it was good to see that the inner diagonal planking was in fine condition. Although the canvas was still there, it was in bad condition, but the woodwork is good.
Removal of the cover boards from the chines with most of the screws being able to be removed revealed that the chines are in excellent condition with no rot. Removal of the old sealer showed the original primer still in place.
Removal of the garboard planks next to the keel because of cracking was interesting but it was good to see that the inner diagonal planking was in fine condition. Although the canvas was still there, it was in bad condition, but the woodwork is good.
Removal of the cover boards from the chines with most of the screws being able to be removed revealed that the chines are in excellent condition with no rot. Removal of the old sealer showed the original primer still in place.
Re: Cockpit floor
The question that I missed above is, when replacing the garboard planks, what is the recommended gaps, if any, for sealer to the keelson and second plank. Planking and boat is very dry after being in the workshop for the last year.
Thanks
Steve
Thanks
Steve
Re: Cockpit floor
Decking looks great
Re: Cockpit floor
Depends on what your using for replacement plank and moisture content. Kiln dried or air dried? I'd go tight to the keel and some gap to the next plank. The whole plank should be re-bedded in bedding compound and payed at the keel with underwater seam compound. Get all the plank seams cleaned out so they can take up tight when soaked. I'd spend some time doing refastening now that the bottom is stripped and the fastener locations are visible. The bottom is really dry so you may want to consider just priming, soaking in slings for a couple of weeks, hauling and then paying seams with Slick Seam or underwater seam compound, do your two coats of bottom paint and re-launch. She will take up, but it will take some time after being on the hard for so long.
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