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1941 CC Steering
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1941 CC Steering
Hey guys, been out of the loop for a while but finally back at it. I began working on my steering last night and as you can see in the photo I'm a bit puzzled as to how the wheel is attached to the shaft. I've searched the archives but had no luck, what I would like to know is where I can find an explosion view of this assembly to make sure I'm not screwing up before I go hacking on this piece, it appears that the wheel is welded to the shaft.
Terry
1941 Model 101 (16') Deluxe Runabout "Miss Dot"
1941 Model 101 (16') Deluxe Runabout "Miss Dot"
- JohnKadimik
- Posts: 454
- Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2008 8:30 pm
- Location: Lake Hopatcong, NJ
- Contact:
- Bill Basler
- Posts: 1996
- Joined: Thu Oct 20, 2005 4:48 pm
- Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
It does look like it is welded and that is not correct. I think you have a real problem. I have a 1942 18' with what appears to be the same wheel. My wheel has a tapered hole and a keyway. The wheel slips onto the shaft and is held in place with the nut. I think you may have to cut the nut off and then have a new tapered, threaded shaft end welded to what is left of the old shaft. This could be tough because there has to be a hole in the shaft for the throttle rod.
- Bill Basler
- Posts: 1996
- Joined: Thu Oct 20, 2005 4:48 pm
- Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Jim's is the same as my 1942 17' Deluxe. I was afraid that that looked like a weld. Not an easy call on this one. John Kadimik may be right. It might be time to look around. A good machine shop can get that wheel off, machine a tapered and keyed piece of shaft. Given the complexity of lining up the new with the old and welding so that it is true, if would probably be easier to have the entire shaft remade if you cannot find an original for replacement. There is a worm gear at the bottom of this shaft. Protect that worm gear with you life, as they are hard to come by as well. The worm can be removed from the shaft with a hydraulic press.
Bill Basler
I'm a fabricator by trade so right now I'm just trying to figure out how to get it apart, I think I might be able to come up with a solution for re-attaching the wheel.
If I take the gear box apart will the steering shaft come out without having to remove the wheel?
If I take the gear box apart will the steering shaft come out without having to remove the wheel?
Terry
1941 Model 101 (16') Deluxe Runabout "Miss Dot"
1941 Model 101 (16') Deluxe Runabout "Miss Dot"
- Bill Basler
- Posts: 1996
- Joined: Thu Oct 20, 2005 4:48 pm
- Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
- Bill Basler
- Posts: 1996
- Joined: Thu Oct 20, 2005 4:48 pm
- Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
tuobanur, see also:
http://www.chris-craft.org/discussion/v ... 15a3cebdac
http://www.chris-craft.org/discussion/v ... php?t=2743
http://www.chris-craft.org/discussion/v ... 15a3cebdac
http://www.chris-craft.org/discussion/v ... php?t=2743
Bill Basler
- JohnKadimik
- Posts: 454
- Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2008 8:30 pm
- Location: Lake Hopatcong, NJ
- Contact:
- Bill Basler
- Posts: 1996
- Joined: Thu Oct 20, 2005 4:48 pm
- Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
They're hard to come by. Brattons would be a good place to start: http://brattons.com/prodtype.asp?PT_ID= ... istory=cat
Unfortunately when I click on the exploded views, they do not link to a larger size without error.
Unfortunately when I click on the exploded views, they do not link to a larger size without error.
Bill Basler
Yea I had the same problem, hoped maybe you knew of another site, thanks.
The rest of the unit is in remarkably good shape and complete not sure what happen with the shaft and wheel but it does appear that it was welded. I wasn't sure if maybe it was made in one piece it's so corroded it's hard to tell. Wouldn't make much sense that it would be in one piece though.
By-the-way liked your banjo comment.
The rest of the unit is in remarkably good shape and complete not sure what happen with the shaft and wheel but it does appear that it was welded. I wasn't sure if maybe it was made in one piece it's so corroded it's hard to tell. Wouldn't make much sense that it would be in one piece though.
By-the-way liked your banjo comment.
Terry
1941 Model 101 (16') Deluxe Runabout "Miss Dot"
1941 Model 101 (16') Deluxe Runabout "Miss Dot"
I am not much of a mechanic but what if you ran a hacksaw blade all the way around between the nut and the wheel being careful not to cut into the shaft. Haven't I heard of a nut splitter (no rude remarks, please) or couldn't the nut be cut to remove it from the threads without damaging them? Of course, the wheel may be stuck on the shaft but it might be worked loose without damaging the shaft.
- Bill Basler
- Posts: 1996
- Joined: Thu Oct 20, 2005 4:48 pm
- Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Terry, I can help somewhat. I have taken a couple of these apart as far as I cared to/needed to.
The casting that as the side of the entire housing assembly is fairly easy. You can remove the pitman arm off of the splined sector shaft, by removing the nut on the end. You may have to use a puller on the arm. Mine just kind of fell off. I was lucky. This will depend on how badly yours is pressed on or rusted on.
The set of bolts immediately inward of that pitman arm are just for the mounting bracket. The affect the mounting angle of the unit when installed in the boat. You might want to make a scribe mark across the mounting flange and onto the other surface to help with reassembly. This was you will be able to put it back together at the same angle as it was. Just remove the three cap screws and you will be able to remove this mounting flange.
From there, you have the sector housing attached to the main housing. You can remove the cap screws that hold these two pieces together. Keep in mind the sector shaft has either two or three teeth that mesh into a worm gear. The worm is at the bottom of your main steering column shaft. The entire side housing with the sector shaft will come free as one unit.
With the sector housing and shaft free, you can remove the sector shaft out of the housing. It simply slide inward. Nothing to this really, other than you should take note of the seals. They are usually leather and will probably need to be replaced. These things almost always leaked, especially as they were filled with fairly low viscosity gear lube.
The actual steering column (outer tube) removes by loosing the clamp on the lower end. Then the shaft will pull off of a mounting seat on the main housing. This is a pretty simple assembly as well. On the upper end of this outer shaft is a rubber bushing. This rubber bushing keeps the outer shaft centered over the steering column.
From there, it gets bit trickier. I would start by bathing the entire lower gearbox in a degreaser or scrub it in a parts washer. This will help you see what you are dealing with internally.
The biggest issue here, is that the steering column shaft has the worm gear press fit on the lower end of the rod. This will keep it from being able to be removed. I needed up sending mine out to a local driveline shop to have the worm removed.
Most worms will be in OK shape. Mine was not. I had to search high and low for a replacement.
Oh, I should mention that the clamp at the very bottom go the throttle odd, needs to be loosened in order to get the throttle rod out the top of the column. Take pictures of every step in the process. You will need them going the other way.
The casting that as the side of the entire housing assembly is fairly easy. You can remove the pitman arm off of the splined sector shaft, by removing the nut on the end. You may have to use a puller on the arm. Mine just kind of fell off. I was lucky. This will depend on how badly yours is pressed on or rusted on.
The set of bolts immediately inward of that pitman arm are just for the mounting bracket. The affect the mounting angle of the unit when installed in the boat. You might want to make a scribe mark across the mounting flange and onto the other surface to help with reassembly. This was you will be able to put it back together at the same angle as it was. Just remove the three cap screws and you will be able to remove this mounting flange.
From there, you have the sector housing attached to the main housing. You can remove the cap screws that hold these two pieces together. Keep in mind the sector shaft has either two or three teeth that mesh into a worm gear. The worm is at the bottom of your main steering column shaft. The entire side housing with the sector shaft will come free as one unit.
With the sector housing and shaft free, you can remove the sector shaft out of the housing. It simply slide inward. Nothing to this really, other than you should take note of the seals. They are usually leather and will probably need to be replaced. These things almost always leaked, especially as they were filled with fairly low viscosity gear lube.
The actual steering column (outer tube) removes by loosing the clamp on the lower end. Then the shaft will pull off of a mounting seat on the main housing. This is a pretty simple assembly as well. On the upper end of this outer shaft is a rubber bushing. This rubber bushing keeps the outer shaft centered over the steering column.
From there, it gets bit trickier. I would start by bathing the entire lower gearbox in a degreaser or scrub it in a parts washer. This will help you see what you are dealing with internally.
The biggest issue here, is that the steering column shaft has the worm gear press fit on the lower end of the rod. This will keep it from being able to be removed. I needed up sending mine out to a local driveline shop to have the worm removed.
Most worms will be in OK shape. Mine was not. I had to search high and low for a replacement.
Oh, I should mention that the clamp at the very bottom go the throttle odd, needs to be loosened in order to get the throttle rod out the top of the column. Take pictures of every step in the process. You will need them going the other way.
Bill Basler
- Bill Basler
- Posts: 1996
- Joined: Thu Oct 20, 2005 4:48 pm
- Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
There was also an excellent article about the Gemmer gears featured in the Fall 2007 Brass Bell. For convenience, I have posted this article here here
Bill Basler
Thanks again for the help guys, got it apart and thought I would share my findings for future reference. As it turned out what looked like a weld holding the wheel on was actually what was left of a nut, the end of the shaft is tapered and threaded with a key.
Terry
1941 Model 101 (16') Deluxe Runabout "Miss Dot"
1941 Model 101 (16') Deluxe Runabout "Miss Dot"
Well, i've decided i'm going to build a steering wheel for my boat, something i've always wanted to try my hand at and i figure what better time to go for it, so i need a little help with a few dimentions.
Basically i have some of what i need from the original basket but i need to know the finished thickness of the rim and spokes and a good picture that will show me the basic shape, any help will be greatly appreciated, thanks.
By-the-way i will be building it out of Ash with a painted finish.
Basically i have some of what i need from the original basket but i need to know the finished thickness of the rim and spokes and a good picture that will show me the basic shape, any help will be greatly appreciated, thanks.
By-the-way i will be building it out of Ash with a painted finish.
Terry
1941 Model 101 (16') Deluxe Runabout "Miss Dot"
1941 Model 101 (16') Deluxe Runabout "Miss Dot"
Wheel Construction
Beginning stages of my wheel construction, never got any responses for wheel specs so I'm using some pictures.
Terry
1941 Model 101 (16') Deluxe Runabout "Miss Dot"
1941 Model 101 (16') Deluxe Runabout "Miss Dot"
- Chad Durren
- Posts: 666
- Joined: Tue Aug 01, 2006 1:39 pm
- Location: Chicago, Illinois
- Contact:
I hope I am not too late. I just saw that you are looking for dimensions. The outside of the wheel is a circle about 1" in diameter. There are 2 raised ribs on the top and the grips are about 1" peak to peak. They are not on the backside of the rim but are about half way between the backside and the spokes. The spokes taper from about 1" at the hub to 1/2" at the rim. There is one raised rib on the spoke. If you anything more specific, please ask and I will try to photo or measure. Nice work so far!
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