My 1958 Cavalier Refinish Project

[jbyers]

I am starting a new thread on this topic and hope some of you can point me in the right direction:

OK, I have most of the boat stripped now. I am encountering enough rot and old repairs that it is clear I will have to do some creative painting and striping if I want to still be able to stain/varnish the parts that are still in good condition.

I have two questions:

First, on those areas that I paint or put stripes on, I assume I can varnish over that as well???

Secondly, I am confused after reading all the pros and cons regarding caulk that is paintable/stainable. Some seems compatible with only water based paints, some with oil based and some with both.

What would you guys suggest I use for caulk that is easily paintable/stainable with he most common boat stains and paints in use today?

Thanks in advance,

[joanroy]

Never a good idea to paint over varnish or varnish over paint. Have to mask of the areas separately. The caulking that's not paintable is silicone based. Most other good boat caulkings are paintable but not stainable. Some have more adhesion than others. Always a good idea to read the labels and go by manufactures recommendations for use and application. Good Luck!

[Bilge Rat]

It's been my experience that any caulk over 1/4" wide will flex too much for paint to adhere. There are exceptions depending on where on the boat this caulk is, but a wood boat naturally flexes as it powers through the water, that's to be expected. I once had a strip built 1950 row boat that I wasn't going to over-restore and I filled a gap in the aft quarter cheek blocks with 5200 and carefully filleted the caulk to blend in the gap. Quality marine primer and paint over the caulk. No way this would remain painted, just too much flexing going on. Looked great until I used it in the water.

[jbyers]

Thanks for the advice guys.

Joanroy, if I don't varnish over the painted part, what do I do about the margins where the stain meets the paint? It seems like you would have a very thin line where there is no varnish, therefore no sealing properties. Am I understanding this incorrectly?

[joanroy]

It's all about the accuracy of the masking. Your tape has to be right on the edge without going over the edge so the two dissimilar finishes will seal at the seam. I make sure the finish being taped is completely dry and I use a good easy release tape. Remove slowly to avoid damaging the finish.

[jbyers]

Dang........ Accuracy and ME........ Oxymorons

[mfine]

Have you considered doing the repairs with a "Dutchman" so that you can just stain and varnish? There may be some visible seams left, but it will likely still look good.

[jbyers]

I'd like to mfine........... I just don't think I could handle the work. I am not sure how far down the damage goes, hopefully not into the bottom. My main objective is to get it looking as good as I can and running well so I can enjoy it for awhile. At some point I will sell it and move up to something a little better. I'm using this as a learning experience and now that I know what to look for, I should be more astute on my next purchase...........

[Greg Wallace]

Painted hull with varnished decks can be quite attractive.