White line grooves in deck

[Peter McBratney]

I am cutting and fitting new planks for the deck of my 19ft Capri and starting to think of the procedure to produce white lines as per the original.

I have cut the 1/8 inch grooves as previous.

Can anyone advise the best material to use for the white fill plus the sequence of application

Thanks

Peter McB

[RRGadow]

Do a search of the forum...there are lots of threads about how to do this.

[Bill Basler]

As RRGadow suggests, try clicking the search link at the top of any page.in this case I would search on the word "seams." This topic is discussed frequently as there are many methods...personal preference in most cases.

Come back here if you do not find what you are looking for or need additional input.

[Ken Miller]

Peter,

Seeing as how you are starting with new planks and new grooves, I'd advise using this method:
http://www.youtube.com/user/AntiqueBoat ... APbZby_vqw

That video shows Joel at The Antique Boat Center in Cinncinnati, Ohio using a stiping tool to paint the seams onto mahogany colored caulking in the seam.

My father and I recently attended the symposium held there by the ACBS. Joel taped off both sides of each seam, filled them with Boat Life mahogany caulk, ran a wet fingertip across the top of each seam leaving a concave surface, let it dry, and then followed up with the striping tool.

Since you have new (straight) seams the striping tool should be the easy way to go.

Ken Miller

[Jim Godlewski]

Peter,
We followed this book step by step. It's a great resource.
http://www.amazon.com/How-Restore-Your- ... 0760320489
1. Filled seams with mahogany Sikaflex 291 LOT
2. One coat of varnish over it.
3. Paint with white boot stripe paint using striping wheel.
We used this paint striper with good results.
http://www.misterart.com/store/view/001 ... er-Set.htm

[Peter McBratney]

Thanks everybody for your assistance. Attached a some pictures of the new wood. Not yet finally fixed, but cut, fitted and grooved, with the exception of the long groove on the outboard plank shown.

[Chad Durren]

Nice work Peter. Thanks for sharing the progress.

[Mark Campbell]

Personally I like the seams filled with a brown color. Because...once the wood is stained the two match very closely and the stripping of white paint becomes the perfecting line correcting any possible imperfect cuts. If you fill the cuts with a white fill ...well...then the painting of the line becomes mute unless it is painted wider than your white fill. Does this make sense.

When white lines are painted over a brown fill on a deck, the brown fill becomes invisible , it looks like a stain like shadow at most..

[iamallthumbs]

I know that this issue has been discussed frequently but I have a twist that I could use some help on. The grooves on my Runabout are completely filled, infact the white lines area actually proud of the wood in some places. I am not ready to reef the grooves out this year but would like to repaint the lines because they have yellowed with all the varnish that was put over the paint.

I will purchase a wheeled striper and give it a try but I am concerned about making straight lines without the benefit of a groove to follow. I have watched the videos and it does look easy, but again there are grooves. Am I worrying about a non-problem or would I be better off waiting to paint until I can reef the grooves out ?

[mfine]

Some people can easily draw a straight line, some of us can't do it with a ruler or laser. My suggestion is to get your more artistically talented wife to do it for you.

[Brian Robinson]

If your seams are less than perfect a striping wheel will not work well. My advice in your case would be to hire a pinstriper to do them. Just make sure to keep them as narrow as possible.

[MikeM]

Either hire a striper (Yes, I said striper with one P) or tape off each side of the seam and paint it with a small brush.

Personally, if I have less than perfect seams I let my "sign guy" do it. He makes it look easy and he enjoys it. He does it at the end of the project when the transom art and registration numbers go on.

Uneven lines can really ruin an otherwise nice restoration.

[DennyDowning]

I have to say, I was very successful with using tape, on my 1929 Cadet, and taping all the seams off. The tape pulls a very straight line and it was easy to put on two coats of white with a brush. You do not need the grooves to follow. The one thing to watch is the space of the lines they should be consistant from one to the next. Also, it is important to really seal the inside edge of the tape down such that paint will not leak under the tape. Oh it will in a few places which can easily be scraped clean off. So press the inside edges of the tale down firmly. I used a piece of thin flexible plastic, kinda like a credit card, and pressed it firmly over the inside edges of the tape kinda curving the plastic around my finger tip while pressing and dragging. I sanded the lines between coats for the best adheasion and it worked great. The finish was sanding out the decks again, a styrofoam block with 220 silicon carbide paper works great, and then sanding the seam lines again before revarnishing the entire deck seam lines and all. It only sounds like a lot of work. It isn't and the process is very easy for somebody with the skill to manage the restoration process. And it looks oh so good. Putting varnish over everything protects the seam lines and gives them depth as seen through a golden translucent layer of freah varnish; that also makes it look less like lines were just painted on and more like they have always been there.

[Brian Robinson]

Good advice Denny, but why white lines on a '29?

[DennyDowning]

Hmmmm, Good Question I Think!
Should they not be white?
When I removed the old decks the material used appeared white; what was left. Yet the entire boat had been painted white. Many years since I researched but the words "White Lead" come to mind. Also, since I varnish over the white, which is a semi gloss enamel, they appear as a white gold color. Future coats of varnish will tone them down even more. The idea was to fill the seams such that they would not leak. Just happens to look really great too.

I couldn't figure out how to put an image in with the text here. Still kinda new, but I think the attachment should work fine.

Denny Downing

[tkhersom]

I tried a striping wheel last year (it was a cheap wheel and I am sure a more expensive one would give better performance) and was not happy with the results. I did end up taping with a fine edge "Blue Tape" and was please with the outcome. Like all the work I do, I can see all the flaws, but few others do.

I did not varnish over the paint as the King plank is also painted white. Last year when I asked about this someone sent me this info.

"Prewar Chris' had a coat of varnish over the white compound when new. One coat sealer, two coats varnish, seams filled, then last coat of varnish.

One coat of varnish over white is virtually unnoticeable out in the sun.

Postwar (at least on the more expensive runabouts and Sportsman's), they were varnished over the compound, then striped with white paint after the final."

I like the idea of hiring a sign painter.

[Brian Robinson]

Denny,

Except for very few special exceptions, Chris-Craft did not go to white deck seams until 1931. Prior to that they were brown originally.

[JohnKadimik]

Brian, Are you saying that all those triples we see running around with white seams are incorrect? What were the special exceptions and how many? JK

[DennyDowning]

I won't disagree.
But, I don't care either as if I made them brown most everybody would probably say they are wrong or ask why I don't paint them white. It certainly does look awfully rich. Also, it is my boat and I will use owners descretion and update as I see fit. It didn't have green upholstry or did it have the name "DAWN" on the transom. Probably had copper and lead based paint on the bottom too. Guess I just love a beautiful old boat and how it looks is up to me; the owner and the restorer. I bet Chris Smith had a good reason for making them white starting a few years later then. Perhaps he thought it looked better too. Not trying to be a wise guy here Brian. But, I'll be the first to stand up and say my boat, although it has the documented original engine, I converted to 12V, is certainly not original and has pushed a lot of water. But, I feel it is pretty darn close to original. My boat was used till it couldn't go any more in 1975. Thats 46 years of original use. I spent about 30 years to restore her to very nice condition, I didn't use any 5200 though. Canvas, Bedding, and Batting are the main construction; I figured if she goes another 46 years it'll be fine with me. Oh, I did use Reed Prince Silicon Bronze screws too. The strait slots on the inside are stainless. So, although your likely very correct in your knowledge I still love my white lines on the seams. You know I love learning about this stuff, however, most the guys I need to ask about stuff here in Algonac are all gone. I can hardly wait for spring and she is ready to run. Isn't that the most important thing. I love my 1929 Chris Craft Cadet to pieces. Come on spring!

[DennyDowning]

Thanks Brian,
Brown Deck seams on a 1929 is original.
I just got another internet doctorate inspired by you.
I recall thinking the seams looked brown due to several coats of varnish.
The varnish tones the white down as it settles some in the grooves.
So anybody else doing a project like mine BROWN SEAMS is the word.
Guess mine is just one of those special cases.
The process of corse is the same.
You all don't mind if I don't tell people they are supposed to be brown I hope.

Denny
"To Quick To Old To Late To Wise"