Cleaning old fuel from tank???

[teacher]

I need to remove and clean the INSIDE of the tank on this 1964 CC SS. It is made of copper or brass, I don't know which, someone here will know I'm sure.
How do I best go about cleaning it?

[JohnKadimik]

Teacher, save yourself the headache and have a new one built. Your original one would be galvanized steel. JK

[teacher]

John,
Appreciate the advice, but throw away a 49 year old original gas tank because it's been sitting 40 years with an inch of gas in the bottom of it, really? Cleaning it would be too much trouble? How cheap can a round, 5' long custom made gas tank cost new today?
I've done some reading on line about car gas tanks that have sat and there are great sounding ideas out there from putting marbles in and shaking it about with acetone or 1 of 2 or 3 OTHER chemicals, even using a chain to shake instead of marbles. These ideas sound ALOT cheaper than a new tank.
Anyone else with ideas? Or know where I can get a new tank real cheap?
Why does it have a brass/copper color to it?
Thanks.

[JohnKadimik]

When you lose a summer with gas tank related issues you'll understand. Go ahead and clean it out, it's easy.

[teacher]

Wow, I disagree so out comes the sarcasm. Nice. I'm the newbie here, but I'm not convinced a gas tank can't be cleaned after 40 years with an inch , 1 INCH of gas in it.
Anyone else have anything besides, "buy a new tank. Old gas can NOT be cleaned out of a tank, not even an inch of gas."
These internet boards are funny. Each has different rules that are not written. Hopefully it's OK to disagree with someone on here without being flamed. If not, no worries.
John has 400+ posts, I have 30+. I've nver had THIS boat on the water, never even started the motor. But I just don't buy into, "get a new tank". I could be wrong, completely wrong, have been before, will be again, might even be now. But I'd bet big $, BIG $$$ , it's not worth buying a new tank over.

[quitchabitchin]

I had my cleaned at a metal cleaning shop for $25. Had it back in two days. Didn't lose a "whole summer" or even a weekend with any related issues. If the tank is in good structural shape, which I would assume it is given the condition of the boat, I would find a local radiator or metal cleaning shop that has a dip tank in which they can clean it out.

[Jim Bell]

I support keeping a solid steel fuel tank rather than replacing. "solid" being the key word. I have owned and restored too many boats to mention with original steel tanks of the 60's vintage without any tank issues. Presently, I have the tank to my 1965 CC Sea Skiff, which I added a gallon of carbruator cleaner into, and have it in the bed of my 1/2 ton swishing around, which I will dump out shortly. I will apply some moderate pressure to the tank and brush some soapy water around all welds to be sure it is good to go. Fuel lines, on the other hand, are a different story. Check them closely or go with new fuel line flex hose and fittings.

[teacher]

"radiator or metal cleaning shop that has a dip tank"

All the reading I've done on the net and this is the first time I was told of this,,,,,I like this idea the best. I also like the "put in the truck bed and drive around" idea, but I have a Yukon, not a pick up.
Thanks guys !!!

[farupp]

teacher: I have an original, extra, 50 gallon round tank from my Sea Skiff sitting in my garage. Hopefully it will fit your boat. It still has the Chris Craft Corp stencil on it like yours does. You can have it for FREE if you want to come to Charleston to pick it up. It is clean inside and my wife will be ecstatic. I'll be happy because someone is able to use it and my wife won't be able to turn it into a planter.

Send me a PM if you are interested.

Frank

[iamallthumbs]

With luck, I will have a new stainless steel tank by the end of this week to replace my rotten one. I see that the piping for the original tank in this thread was sealed with some kind of black stuff. Does anyone have any idea what was originally used? What is recommended now for a stainless steel tank?

Teacher, just take comments with a grain of salt.

Mike Dovichi

[teacher]

farupp,
Thanks for the offer, I really doubt it would fit, plus I'm really hoping this 1 can be cleaned and is operable. Very kind of you, thanks!!!

thumbs,
I noticed that black sealant also, but notice, it's on ALL the threads/fittings ??? I figured it was oem stuff???

[Jim Bell]

Teflon thread seal for gas fittings. It is yellow instead of white. Any auto supply store.

[iamallthumbs]

Thank Jim.

[mfine]

I would FAR PREFER an old galvinized tank in good shape to a new aluminum one. Ethanol plus moisture destroys aluminum tanks, sometimes very quickly. Quite frankly I am not sure why aluminum tanks are still legal for marine use. If the tank is bad, stainless steel or modern plastics are the safer choices, but one is expensive and the other doesn't look remotely original.

As for a solvent to clean out 50 years of varnish and crud, I used a government subsidized solvent available in bulk from the local gas station. E85 which is 85% ethanol, 15% gasoline. It dissolved anything in my grimey orange tinged tank and left a sparkling silver interior.

Whatever way you go, do yourself a favor and also add a spin on style fuel filter/fuel water seperator.

[RRGadow]

I would FAR PREFER an old galvinized tank in good shape to a new aluminum one. Ethanol plus moisture destroys aluminum tanks, sometimes very quickly. Quite frankly I am not sure why aluminum tanks are still legal for marine use. If the tank is bad, stainless steel or modern plastics are the safer choices, but one is expensive and the other doesn't look remotely original.

As for a solvent to clean out 50 years of varnish and crud, I used a government subsidized solvent available in bulk from the local gas station. E85 which is 85% ethanol, 15% gasoline. It dissolved anything in my grimey orange tinged tank and left a sparkling silver interior.

Whatever way you go, do yourself a favor and also add a spin on style fuel filter/fuel water seperator.

I second this opinion...with the fuel filter add on and abit of cleaning...youll be fine.

[homeiste]

You've gotton both opinions on the tank. All I'll say is I got my boat in 2003 from a restorer who had the 1960 original galvinized tank 'boiled' out. The tank interior continued to rust and release particulate matter into the lines, filter and carb. I ultimately swapped it for a stainless tank. There were systems to 're-line' gas tanks that I looked into when I swapped mine out, but at the time no one was real keen on that process. Don't know if that process has caught on or dwindled.

For a fitting sealer, someone recommended this stuff for use on airplane fittings and its worked great for me: Permatex Aviation Form-a-gasket Sealant Liquid. I got it at a good auto parts store.

[Captain Nemo]

I have had good results by doing the stones and nuts and bolts rattling around cleaning thing. Soaking w/ the E85 is a good idea that will cut any crud or varnish. On the other hand, you say there is just an inch of gas in it, hopefully it didn't start out 3/4 full forty years ago. It might be more of a mess.

[mfine]

a restorer who had the 1960 original galvinized tank 'boiled' out. The tank interior continued to rust

Use of an old galvinized tank requires it still be in good condition. If it was rusty, the galvanized layer must have been gone, so continued rusting would be expected. If the tank is in good condition but filled with varnish or other debris, it will likely outlast a br ad new aluminum tank despite a 50 year head start.

Aluminum barely holds up to E10. Basically is is corroding slow enough people assume it is OK. Add water or more alcohols such as those contained in many fuel treatments, and the story can change rapidly. Ethanol and ethanol plus water conducts electricity where gasoline does not. Aluminum is particularly susceptible to galvonic corrosion when other metals are in the system. That not only includes things like copper lines and fittings in most of our boats, but also impurities that are contained in the welding rods. When the liquid in the tank is conductive, and galvonic corrosion occurs, it won't take long to burn a hole through or split a seam. See the recent thread on Woodyboater where a 2005 tank failed and someone in the comments mentioned a 1 year old tank that failed.

[mfine]

I have had good results by doing the stones and nuts and bolts rattling around cleaning thing. Soaking w/ the E85 is a good idea that will cut any crud or varnish. On the other hand, you say there is just an inch of gas in it, hopefully it didn't start out 3/4 full forty years ago. It might be more of a mess.

I would not recommend this or the use of any abrasives on a galvanized tank. You do not want to wear through the protective layer, or your corrosion resistance will be lost. If there is anything in the tank that can not be removed with a strong solvent, it wont dissolve in the fuel either.

[quitchabitchin]

Regular pump gas broke down my varnish, then the metal cleaning shop cleaned the rest. They had originally quoted $100 or so, but only charged $25 when they saw how well the varnish from old fuel had been already broken down. They did not even need any harsh chemicals basically a quick rinse to see the nicely preserved galvanized finish. If you have rust in a galvanized tank, scrap it.

This issue has been gone over more than once on this board and it always has the same results, everyone has their own experiences, some good, some bad. Teacher, pull your tank and dump the old fuel then do a visual inspection. If it looks rusty, not just a red tint, but real rust, you might look not a new tank. If the inside still has the galvanized finish like the outside, have it cleaned. I think you will find the latter and be able to have it cleaned very inexpensively at a local shop. I would not put anything, like bolts or chains in the tank for fear that you will not get all of them out, there are baffles in there and something could become lodged under or behind them. I agree with the add on filter, not the little plastic see thru, but a good spin on or pleated filter in a canister, there are several brands out there such as Raco.

[teacher]

Thanks for all the advice in this thread. I'll be pulling the tank and using the E85 first, then inspect. I'm really hoping/thinking this should be enough, but if not, it'll be sent to a shop and get done by the pro's !!!
I read about the E85 on the internet before I posed the question here, so it's probably a good first move.
If I were to put anything in the tank it would have been marbles, but I wasn't aware of the tank having baffles.
Again I thank you guys for this and all the other help offered. I just need to decide if I'm doing all the work, and if so I need to get all the "tune-up" parts ordered or if I'm just handing it off to an experienced old boat owner/mechanic. I'm not a mechanic, my neighbor is and knows his way around these old engines very well, but he has limited free time also.
My other boats are all able to be ran in the driveway on muffs to supply water to the motor. How can that be done with this 327 inboard? Or can't it?

[farupp]

teacher, I run my boat while on the trailer using a toilet plunger type of water supply that mounts under the hull tight against the water scupper. You can buy one at West Marine. Take a look at this thread for more information and tips:

http://www.chris-craft.org/discussion/v ... f=6&t=8311

Frank

[mfine]

You can go with the plunger method, store bought, or one home made from a plunger and a hose attachment. I use a square kitty litter bucket with a PVC bulkhead near the bottom. I remove the inlet hose from the thru-hull and connect to the bucket. I fill the bucket with a hose and adjust the flow rate at the nozzle to keep it from overflowing or running dry. When winterizing instead of the hose I can pour antifreeze into the bucket.

Ether way limits the pressure to the pump. I would avoid connecting the hose direct to the intake as some people have had problems with seals or gaskets due to high home water pressure.

[tkhersom]

I took a tank out a number of years ago now that looked just like yours only the gas was in there for 12 years. Emptied the tank, took it to a radiator shop, he sent it to Canada somewhere. I think they cut it open, cleaned it, and re-finished it. It has worked great ever since. Think it cost about $300.00 at the time.

I am planning on having a mobil "Fuel Polishing" company come do the tanks on my Connie. (As soon as I get to that point)