B engine evaluation

[Theurkauf]

I just started restoration of a U17 project boat. The 4 cyliner engine was not stored propery (in 1990), and 2 of the casting plugs on the block have been pushed completely out. On the plus side, the engine is free and otherwise looks ok. I have severeral questions:

1. Is it worth trying to bring this beast back to life? Seems like parts for B motors are hard to come by.

2. The battery is out and I don't know if the boat was converted to 12V. Is there an easy way to tell? On a realted front, where do I get an appropriate 6V battery?

3. Remarkably, a neighbor stopped by while I was working on the boat and informed me that he's had a B engine in his garage for 15 years and would like to sell. It hasn't been run in 15 years, but it is free, the oil looks good, and oil was added to the cylinders when originally put into storage. It also shows no sign of freeze damage. However, I really don't know if it needs major work. Any suggestions on an appropriate price, or the cost of a complete rebuild?

[evansjw44]

Let me try to address your questions. As to whether the engine has been converted to 12 volt, look at the ignition coil. It might be marked 6 or 12 volt. If not look for a makers mark and part number to head off to a good auto parts store. With the maker and part number they might be able to get its specification. Better yet, take the coil to them. Don't go a big box auto parts store, look of a local shop thats been around for a while. You can pull out the running light bulbs and take them to the parts store too. They would have been changed to 12 volt if the boat was upgraded.

As to your Model B. The popped freeze plugs make one suspicious that the block could have suffered damage. It isn't a given, just a suspicion.

As for your neighbor's B, it doesn't sound like it has any obvious damage, but that's not to say there isn't something that an engine builder will find on a tear-down.

So, I don't think it makes a really big difference which engine you take to the engine builder. There is an almost equal chance for block damage, especially cracks around the exhaust valves.

A quality engine builder will tear the engine completely down and inspect every part. The will surely "magna-flux" the block for cracks. You might just end up using parts from your engine and your neighbor's to get one.

Also, don't re-use any of the exhaust valves. New ones will save you a lot of possible headaches if you can find them.

[THE RAZZ]

The previous suggestions are excellent. And then, probably the first question to deal with is how your project will be used. Are you intent on preserving a boat historically and showing it at antique boat gatherings? Or, is your project intended to be a "user" boat?

There are a number of threads on Boat Buzz re the virtue of preservation. Use the search feature to review various ideas if you are undecided.

An able machinists will bring your engine back to life. I prefer Performance Concepts, Cotati CA for this type work. Look in the ACBS directory for a machinist near you if possible.

re the battery - Sears sells 6 volt batteries too.

[Mike]

Or you can look at the generator a converted generator will have an extra field and the wire will be on generator, or there may be a resistor on coil.
if it still has the 6V coil,
Parts are hard to find but I think are worth the effort. Mr B, Jerry Biro and Scripps have B parts.
Also if you have any old tractor friends I think some of the old tractors have the same block, the exhaust/intake manifold is extra hard to find an uncracked one. Crow Casting offers repair services and I think Mr B may have some new casted manifolds.
My project boat came with the engine in a trash bag and buckets siezed block .... I rebuilt it myself.. so it can be done!

[tom king]

I'm still trying to figure out why someone kept a "B engine" in their garage for 15 years.

[Theurkauf]

Thanks for all the advice. I think I'll bit the bullit and try to rebuild it myself. The origin of my neighbor's B is a sad story. It was given to him by a friend who stripped it from a boat that ended up as fire wood. Not a pretty picture... My neighbor really had to use for it, but he seems to collect anything with a piston. His gragage is full old engines.

My boat is 6V. I missed the label on the coil, which was coverd by the bracket. The guy at the local NAPA looked at me like I was crazy when I asked about a 6 Volt marine batter. I'll try Sears. What is the "modern" application for an appropriate 6 volt battery? I suspect my request for a 6V marine battery is sending them to the wrong section of the parts catalogue.


Cheers
Bill Theurkauf

[John DeVries]

Another way of looking at the "popped" frost plugs is that they might have done what they were intended to do - sacrifice themselves to save the block.

Cracks in cast iron can be welded. There were six in the block of the "ML" in our '55 Continental. The block is heated to 1400° to remove all impurities, and then welded. The "cool down" is done over a 14 hour span. Some warping occurs, so align boring the crank journals, etc., etc. is required. We had this done 11 years ago.

Not all NAPA's are created equal. While shopping for piston rings for the ML, I went to two NAPA stores about 25 miles apart (both in the Iowa Great Lakes region). At one I got a blank stare and the other said they would have them in 2 days.

[drrot]

Bill,
Here in Illinois we have two Farm related chains. Farm & Fleet and Tractor Supply. Both have a good selection of 6V parts. 6V batteries are hard enough to find, Never heard of a MARINE 6V battery. Usually the MARINE designation means "Deep Cycle" You can drain it all the way down before charging and it does not affect the life of the battery. In our applications this does not happen like it would in a fishing boat using a trolling motor.
I got so tired of my local NAPA not being willing to look something up in a paper book i started travelling 25 miles to a NAPA that had older guys behind the counter that would spend the time. Eventually i found most of the books covering what we deal with where i could walk in and ask by part number. Saves the long trip.