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annual lay-up

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atalbott
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annual lay-up

Post by atalbott » Thu Oct 06, 2016 4:45 pm

First year in N Wisconsin with a 1966 22' Sea Skiff with a 327F engine. Boat operated great and engine ran the season needing no additional oil. Now getting ready to pull the boat for the season.

I had two questions:
1. Will be changing oil and given the options available with oil is there something better to use than SAE 30 w for the engine as written in operators manual. is there a current oil spec that you guys are following for these engines.
2. I am planning to pull all the plugs from the block, water pumps etc as instructed in the operators manual to get the water drained. just curious if a air compressor can help short- cut some of the process.

look forward to any advice.

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drrot
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Re: annual lay-up

Post by drrot » Thu Oct 06, 2016 7:22 pm

I pull all my plugs and drain the water. Then I re-install them and fill the block with anti-freeze. Cheap insurance and helps stop rust.
Jim Staib
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1947 Penn Yan 12' Cartopper WXH474611
1950 Chris-Craft 22' Sportsman U-22-1532
1957 Chris-Craft 26' Sea Skiff SK-26-515
1968 Century 17' Resorter FG-68-174

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Bilge Rat
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Re: annual lay-up

Post by Bilge Rat » Mon Oct 10, 2016 8:46 am

Just a note to the thinking that if you store your boat in a climate controlled building you therefore do not need winterizing; what guaranty do you have that the heat will always be available? Heating plants can and do fail for a number of reasons and while you could set up a remote monitor to tell you that happened, what if an extended power outage happened in your area? We had an unanticipated ice storm back in '91 that left our area without power for about 2 weeks during freezing conditions. Within 2 days there wasn't a generator to be purchased within 150 miles. Commercial rental contracts even for climate controlled buildings do not say that they will always maintain climate control if conditions are beyond their abilities. Do they have a building-wide generator in place? Can or will they run that for weeks at a time?

For the cost of marine antifreeze and a little labor, it is cheap insurance against an unforeseen event like this.
1966 Lyman Cruisette 25 foot "Serenity Now!"
1953 Chris Craft Sportsman 22 foot "Summerwind"

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NOT Firewood
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Re: annual lay-up

Post by NOT Firewood » Mon Oct 10, 2016 9:22 am

What I do is run the engine on the hard until it is warm. Then I take the hose that is in my cooling water and then put it in a pail of RV anti freeze until I smell it come out of the tail pipes. Then I pull the plugs. I has worked for me.

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dag55
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Re: annual lay-up

Post by dag55 » Mon Oct 10, 2016 11:39 am

It is not recommended to winterize a raw water cooled engine without draining the block first. There is no guarantee that antifreeze reaches all parts of the block with that method. Also, its not all about freezing, the antifreeze provides anti corrosion protection too.
Cavalier 36' Seastrake 1967 "CillaGreta III"
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jim g
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Re: annual lay-up

Post by jim g » Mon Oct 10, 2016 10:44 pm

The pink RV antifreeze has very little to no corrosion protection in it. It was originally invented for plastic fresh water systems on RV's. Then they started marketing it to the marine industry because it was environmentally friendly.

The -100 blue marine antifreeze is suppose to have corrosion protection additives in it.

I just had to rebuild a model B engine that had been built 10 years ago and had about 10 hours on it. It had been in storage for 5 years with the pink antifreeze in it. It rusted a pin hole in the number 4 cylinder wall. The hole was about a inch down from the top. Not along the base where they usually happen.

As you can see the pink antifreeze caused the rust on the cylinder wall.
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bflaherty
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Re: annual lay-up

Post by bflaherty » Tue Oct 11, 2016 11:36 am

I prefer the Blue antifreeze for just about everything! It is recommended by all the European car manufacturers, and starting to make it's way into the Japanese cars as well. It has anti-corrosion properties that protect cast iron, aluminum, and even the magnesium used in older VW stuff.

Downside: it is NOT environmentally friendly, and is just about the most expensive antifreeze you can buy..

Although, to be honest, living up in Washington state out winters are generally pretty mild and I can fit our ski boat in the insulated/attached garage so I have only truly winterized it once and that was when I volunteered to drag it down to the Seattle Boat Show January in below freezing temps.
Brian Flaherty
1969 Chris-Craft Cavalier 17 Ski Boat "TUPPERWARE"

"You'll never discover great lands, with your feet planted in the sand"

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Don Vogt
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Re: annual lay-up

Post by Don Vogt » Wed Oct 12, 2016 6:00 pm

by pulling the plugs to drain the water out of the engine and then making sure you go up and down a good sized hill or two on the way to storage you can be sure all the water will be out of the engine. at least for the K.
1938 Chris Craft 17' Deluxe Runabout "Jennifer II"

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Jim Godlewski
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Re: annual lay-up

Post by Jim Godlewski » Sat Oct 15, 2016 9:30 am

Does it help or recommended to spray fogging oil in the cylinders for annual layup after running anti freeze through?
1956 17 Sportsman CC-17-2310
1930 Model 100 7152
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Don Vogt
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Re: annual lay-up

Post by Don Vogt » Sat Oct 15, 2016 10:17 am

I mix a gallon of gas with a qt. of marvel mystery oil and run the engine for about 10 minutes on this stuff. smokes a lot. I suppose that could be coordinated with running antifreeze toward the end thru the engine, but i dont bother with that. Thru whaterver means I think it is desirable to have the inside of the engine coated with something to inhibit rust.
1938 Chris Craft 17' Deluxe Runabout "Jennifer II"

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dag55
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Re: annual lay-up

Post by dag55 » Mon Oct 17, 2016 2:18 am

When storing a gasoline motor for a longer period, it is important to run it on ethanol free fuel, to avoid the corrosion issues involved with ethanol when storing. In Sweden we have alkylat gasoline, that is used for lawn movers and chain saws. It is a synthetic fuel, which gives less poisonous exhaust fumes. It is also good for long storage. I recommend to run any marine motor on such fuel prior to storing. I'm not shure under what name it is sold in the US.
Cavalier 36' Seastrake 1967 "CillaGreta III"
http://chris-craft.org/registry/viewboa ... at_id=2318

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Don Vogt
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Re: annual lay-up

Post by Don Vogt » Mon Oct 17, 2016 8:38 am

good point. I only use non-ethanol gas all the time in my boat. Based on the extensive discussions in boat buzz, the negative effects of ethanol on older engines suggest it should be avoided generally.
1938 Chris Craft 17' Deluxe Runabout "Jennifer II"

Bob B
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Re: annual lay-up

Post by Bob B » Mon Oct 17, 2016 11:23 am

I can't get non-ethanol gasoline but per our mechanic's instructions have used Sta-Bil Marine additive for years and so far so good. 1948 CC original K.

jim g
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Re: annual lay-up

Post by jim g » Tue Oct 18, 2016 10:29 pm

If your going to store your boat for more then a year or so. Go down to your small local county airport and buy 5 gals of low lead avgas. Run your boat out of gas. Then put this gas in and run most of it out. What is left will evaporate out and leave almost no residue. As it was designed to due. Since planes sat more then they are flown. I've done this with my cars and boats for years and have very rarely had to do anything to the fuel system.

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tkhersom
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Re: annual lay-up

Post by tkhersom » Mon Oct 24, 2016 7:01 am

Back to Jim's question about fogging oil.

Yes use fogging oil any way you can. I like the CRC brand. (Napa's is a little thin) What I do is in the last minute of running the my engines on the non-toxic anti-freeze I spray fogging oil in the carbs. Ideally I like to create a puddle in the throat of the Zenith up drafts than at the last second rev the engine a bit and apply the choke. This sucks in the excess storage oil and kills the engine all in one move. The biggest challenge for me is remembering to turn the key off after you have killed the engine.

You can also remove the plugs and spray fogging oil (storage oil) into each cylinder if you prefer, but I don't think it does as good of a job that way. (better than not using it at all.)

Be aware the storage oil will smoke like crazy when you first start up in the spring, but it has a very distinct, sweet, odor to it.

PS: I also spray fogging oil on any medal that is showing any rust. It leaves a great protective coating and is wonderful as a lubricant for choke cables, throttle linkages, and just about anything. I even use it on my cutless bearing if I am going to run the engine without a hose spraying on the cutless like there should be :D
Troy in ANE - Former President CCABC

1957 CC 21' Continental "Yorktown" (Mom's boat)
https://www.chris-craft.org/boats/22625/
1958 CC 38' Connie "American Beauty"
https://www.chris-craft.org/boats/22607/
1985 Formula 242LS "Gottago"
1991 Formula 36PC "Band Aids"

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Tom Gruenauer
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Re: annual lay-up

Post by Tom Gruenauer » Mon Oct 24, 2016 10:58 am

There is a lot on this site about engine oil, do a search.
I use Valvoline VR-1 Racing Oil 30 wt. lots of good stuff in it for the old engines.

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quitchabitchin
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Re: annual lay-up

Post by quitchabitchin » Mon Nov 21, 2016 9:41 am

Just as an FYI, if you have a Rural King store near you, check out their price on VR1. I bought 20W-50 for $4.99/qt. This was the regular price and is a steal.
FLASH1969 Chris Craft Cavalier Ski-230 HP 327Q

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Ed Andrews
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Re: annual lay-up

Post by Ed Andrews » Mon Nov 21, 2016 7:14 pm

I believe what dag55 was referring to is called Trufuel here in the US. It's a synthetic fuel (sold in HD or Lowes) with a shelf life of 3 years and leaves no gum or residue when it evaporates. We Ran the engine till warm changed the oil, then ran tru fuel and antifreeze through the engine. No worries about ethanol or varnish from gas evaporating.
1951 Chris Craft Holiday
1952 12' Kit Boat w/Johnson 15HP engine

1953 Chris Craft Commander 10HP Outboard

Moondocker
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Re: annual lay-up

Post by Moondocker » Tue Dec 06, 2016 5:36 pm

Brad Penn 30 weight running oil. Has the highest ZDDP level. In regards to freeze protection, drain the engine as per the manual and re-install the plugs. Dump 4 gallons of RV antifreeze (-50F) into a pail and run a hose from the water pump into the pail and pump the pail dry.
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