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Starting 6 Volt K engine

Your old Chris-Craft electrical system can be a challenge. If it runs on "juice" pose your questions and offer your advice here.

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martyhills
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Starting 6 Volt K engine

Post by martyhills » Sat Jun 09, 2012 4:47 am

Hi all,

OK so I have been struggling with this for a few weeks now. So here is my problem:

My boat has been running well however last time I took it out it ran on 3-4 cylinders for 2-5mins before the others kicked in on the first start in the morning. This is issue one.

Now I can't get it to fire at all. It sounds like the battery is dead, however I had I tested today and it tests OK, the motor turns over, but slowly.

Any suggestions?

I was thinking about putting another 6volt battery in parallel to give the starter motor an extra boost on the first start of the morning. Then once it all warms up I am sure it will start easily.

I have checked all the usual stuff, spark on the plugs, distributor cap, fuel, etc... And at all seems fine.

Any suggestion and comments would be much appreciated.

Thanks all.

Marty

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Captain Nemo
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Post by Captain Nemo » Sat Jun 09, 2012 8:09 am

Hi,
When you start dropping cylinders, it's usually electrical. I would start changing out the usual stuff (cap, rotor, plugs,etc.) one at a time until you isolate the problem. If she's not turning over now w/ a good battery I might suspect the starter or the connections.
Boats are to be made of wood, otherwise, God would have grown fiberglass trees.

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evansjw44
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Try This

Post by evansjw44 » Sat Jun 09, 2012 8:12 am

Pull all the spark plugs and crank the egnine over. It should spin briskly. If it doesn't you have a couple of choices. The battery could have a high internal resistance failure - very common. You could connect a voltmeter to the starter terminal as a check. It should read 5-6 volts while cranking the engine with no compression load. If the voltage is low, connect the voltmeter to the battery posts (not the terminal) and repeat, If the voltage 5-6 volts while cranking, you have a high resistance connection in the battery cable(s), at the ground connection or where the starter is bolted to the engine block. If the voltage at the battery terminals is low you probably have a b attery failure as in high resistance internal connection. You could also have a failed starter as in high resistance internal connection or a shorted field winding.
Jim Evans

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steve bunda
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start

Post by steve bunda » Sat Jun 09, 2012 12:53 pm

Change the condenser if you have one.

gbraker
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Post by gbraker » Sun Jun 10, 2012 11:08 am

To add to what Jim said. When you have the spark plugs removed try to manually turn the engine over. If you can turn it over manually, but the battery/starter system can't then you know for sure its just electrical. If you can't then something is wrong mechanically. I personally would get another battery, if cleaning the connections doesn't help.

Gary

Katanna
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Post by Katanna » Sun Jun 10, 2012 1:08 pm

First verify there isnt any water in the cylinders. Remove plugs and crank. If that looks good, check to make sure your distributer is tight and the plate that holds the points and condersor is tight also. If the timing is off it can cause a hard crank.

Steve

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evansjw44
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Water

Post by evansjw44 » Sun Jun 10, 2012 4:15 pm

I wasn't ready to go to water in the cylinders but that's why I suggested pulling the spark plugs.
Hydro-lock will make and engine hard to crank -- even not able to crank and the consequences are grave. Bent rod, cracked pistons et al.
Jim Evans

martyhills
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Post by martyhills » Sun Jun 10, 2012 6:12 pm

Thanks guys,

There is no water in the cylinders as I have had the spark plugs out already after cranking them and they are dry.

I have had the battery on charge for the last two days and am going to head out to the boat today to give it another go. I will also change the condenser, as I have another one with me, I also changed the distributor cap the other day in case that is the problem.

I am hoping it is a simple problem with the battery and if I give it more boost it will fire up, not just crank over.

I will keep you posted.

Thanks so much for the help.

M

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debiby
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Post by debiby » Sun Jun 10, 2012 6:26 pm

I am thinking it might have jumped time.
Dan Biby
38' Challenger "DreamOn"

gbraker
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Post by gbraker » Sun Jun 10, 2012 7:56 pm

Just remember it doesn't take much oxidation at all at 6 volts and it will act just like a dead battery. Check from the center terminal + of the battery to the starter solenoid using the lowest scale of resistance. There should be absolutely no resistance. It should be a dead short. If any resistance exists, clean the terminals till its gone. Then it will start.

gbraker
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Post by gbraker » Sun Jun 10, 2012 7:58 pm

The same test can be done with the distributor. With the points closed there should be absolutely no resistance across them.

martyhills
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Post by martyhills » Tue Jun 26, 2012 2:53 am

HI All,

I thought I would give you an update. I got another 6Volt Battery and put them in parallel and exactly the same thing is happening, When i watch the large wheel on the front of the engine, it is turning slowly and then almost stops monetarily.

I have now nailed it down to the starter motor which i am in the midst of pulling out and replacing.

As soon as I can get one of Classic Boat Connections and install it I will let you know how I go.

Also has anyone got any suggestions on the best way to remove every bit of oil out of the engine? I just can't seem to get the last little bit...

Thanks all.

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