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New battery cable with new un- installed terminals

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jwoldeboat
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New battery cable with new un- installed terminals

Post by jwoldeboat » Fri Jul 22, 2011 7:02 pm

I have new size #1 cloth covered copper battery cable and new terminal ends that I just recieved from Rhode Island Wire and I am not sure what the best way is to solder the fittings to the copper cable without burning up the cotton braided jacket and melting the plastic jacket. Any help or suggestions on how to do this will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks !!! Joe

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JohnKadimik
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Post by JohnKadimik » Sat Jul 23, 2011 6:07 am

I think you have to crimp them on. JK

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Chad Durren
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Post by Chad Durren » Sat Jul 23, 2011 6:20 am

Place the terminal upside down in a vice. Apply flux to the inside of the terminal. Heat it thoroughly with a torch and fill it with solder. Place the stripped end of the cable into the terminal and let it cool. Any excess can be wiped off while hot.
1952 CC 18' Sportsman
1969 CC 19' Commander Super Sport

gbraker
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Post by gbraker » Sat Jul 23, 2011 8:36 am

Beware that soldering makes the connection susceptible to breaking. There is a lot of vibration on a boat. I think crimping might be a better way.

If you do decide to solder the connection, make sure you fasten the cable down securely so that it can't move.
Gary R Braker

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Post by gbraker » Sat Jul 23, 2011 8:41 am

Beware also with Chads method you risk a cold solder joint. In order for a good joint the wires have to be heated up, You can't just stick them in melted solder and expect that it will work properly. You have to continue to heat the connection until the solder flows all around the wires and bonds to them.
Gary R Braker

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Chad Durren
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Post by Chad Durren » Sat Jul 23, 2011 8:47 am

Sure. Then crimp it, super glue and duct tape it just to be safe.
1952 CC 18' Sportsman
1969 CC 19' Commander Super Sport

gbraker
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Post by gbraker » Sat Jul 23, 2011 9:06 am

You forgot the bungees
Gary R Braker

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Post by gbraker » Sat Jul 23, 2011 9:12 am

Seriously Chad, when you solder anything it all has to be brought up hot enough that the solder will wick all around the strands of cable. When it does that it also wicks up the cable a short distance. That creates a hard place in the wire. You use a multi stranded cable so that you will have flexibility, but you have no flexibility in the area that was soldered. That's why its so important to clamp, ty-wrap, duct tape, super glue and bungee the wire in place. :lol:
Gary R Braker

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Chad Durren
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Post by Chad Durren » Sat Jul 23, 2011 9:39 am

Sorry for the sarcasm Gary. I've had great success with soldered terminals over the years. And you're right, just like plumbing connection, both parts need to be heated properly for the connection to bond. I just like the look of a neat connection over the screw and clamp type connectors. Solder terminals can also be crimped if you want the insurance. If the cable insulation gets burned or melted, you can cover with a shrink wrap.
1952 CC 18' Sportsman
1969 CC 19' Commander Super Sport

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57 chris
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Post by 57 chris » Sat Jul 23, 2011 9:49 am

That's what I did, I used the solder type battery terminals then put a 4 inch long piece of adhesive lined shrink tubing over the ends, black on the negative and red on the positive. It's very secure.

Craig
1957 18' SeaSkiff #SK 18675 "Knot Sure!"
1958 18' SeaSkiff #SK18722 "Wreckreation"

Past projects: 1972 19' Lancer with 307 Volvo drive-Great Blue, 1968 23' Lancer Offshore with 283 Volvo drive-Narwahl
1988 FourWinns 245 Vista - Blue Ayes.

It's good to have wood!

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