Rewiring Project - '50 41' DCFB

[campjer]

During the next couple months, I'm undertaking the daunting task of completely rewiring my '50 41' DCFB (both 120v & 12v systems). I've started this thread as an attempt to keep progress of the project - and to inform others (as well as welcome input from those who know more than I).

Disclaimer 1: I am not a 'certified' electrician, though I am quite knowledgeable in electricity. If rewiring your boat, please read this thread in it's entirety - as I may run into issues/errors that I'll correct later in the thread.

Disclaimer 2: Safety is of the utmost importance! If you doubt your ability to properly rewire your boat, please hire a professional. Incorrect or poor practices can lead to serious injury and/or death!

Disclaimer 3: What works for my situation may not work for your own. This is meant as a general guideline and starting point for others. I hold no responsibility if anything posted by me results in any unwanted issues.

[campjer]

My first step in rewiring is collecting as much knowledge as possible. Rewiring rats nests' can be taxing on your brain. I'm a big proponent to working from a proper plan. If you don't have a plan, you'll get lost in the lengths, colours, gauges and amps of wire you'll need to string. That being said, other than knowing what exists on my lady, I don't go near her for the initial steps... instead, I put it all out on paper.

The below is a retrace I made in Illustrator of the floorplan for my cruiser. It's specific to my make/model, but you can use it and customize it for yourself. If you would like the original artwork file for this floorplan, please send me an email through here and I'd be more than happy to share it.



You'll notice I've shown 2 line drawings here. The first represents what the intended final floorplan will roughly look like (she is undergoing much more than an electrical rebuild). The second is a blank slate, allowing me to complete an electrical needs assessment and place/reposition elements as I see fit.

I'll be starting with my 120v system.

[Rugger8]

Good luck with the project. One of the things I have been tossing around is how much to buy of each type of wire. Also, where is the best place to buy marine wire in bulk. ie how much by color and by guage, etc. Hard to forecast that and don't want to end up with tons of excess. So, if you get to that part, please post updates with that. I probably won't be starting my rewiring project for at least another month due to the holidays etc. Good luck and I look forward to updates.

Jeff

[Wood Commander]

I just saw a video on YouTube about the current Chris Craft factory in Florida building the new boats. In the video they were showing all different materials and aspects of building their boats.
One of the really cool parts was where they were showing building up the wiring harnesses. Every wire was, of course, high tin, color coded and LABELED every two inches with the circuit/function name, all exceeding American Yacht Council (I probably didn't name this correctly) specifications. Very nice.
It would be cool to get wire like that when rewiring a boat, I wonder if it is a lot more costly to have that feature?

[Al Benton]

Jeff,

The advantage of laying the work out as Jeremy is doing is that once it's planned and shown on a scaled drawing you can use it to estimate the amount of each size and color of wire you will need to complete the project. Buy just what you need. Jeremy pointed out that just about every boat is going to be different based on the location of electrical outlets and devices, and, of course, size (length, width).

Al

PS Bret, Chris-Craft is probably buying their marine grade wire pre-labeled that way from their suppliers in very large bulk orders. I'm sure they paid a premium but when competing for a very large order, suppliers can put a very sharp point on their pencils.

[campjer]

I hate wires. A couple weeks ago, I counted how many wires and chargers control my life. Electric razor, couple laptops, cellphones, flatscreen, DVD, stills camera, HD camera, film lights, MP3 player, the list goes on... all this amounts to dozens of charges and devices I could "possible" need to plug in on my ship.

My philosophy is "It's better to have something and not need it, than to need it and not have it." That being said, this AC plan "may" be excessive (I have no idea!) but it's what I perceive will work for my situation.

Note: It's cheaper (and safer) to make mistakes on paper!!!

-------

Shore power connects starboard mid-ship and into a locker in the salon. This locker will be dedicated solely to the electrical "Brain" of the ship.

I'm opting to have everything feed back to one master breaker panel, though sub-panels/breakout panels may fit your needs, I prefer to house everything in one location so I'm not trying to retrace lines, etc. if something goes wrong.

Now I need to determine how much power I'm going to need both now and in the future and how large a breaker panel (how many circuits) I'll require.


ASSESSING MAIN PERIPHERALS

I'll start with all the hardwired components that make up a good piece of the ship's 120v system:

1x Battery Charger (X)
1x Sump Pump (S)
1x Water Heater (H)
1x Fridge Compressor (C)
1x Oven (O)
1x Air Conditioner (AC)

With the exception of the sump pump, all the above items are sufficient energy hogs or when used, will be used often. Immediately I know they should be treated on their own circuits... so we already need 5 or 6 breakers on our main panel. I personally won't be installing an Air Con unit, but I'll allow for a spare breaker on my panel, should I want to put one in down the road.

ASSESSING AC RECEPTACLES

Using my floorplan diagram, I've carefully gone through my mind and how I will be using 120v power on the boat. I've placed receptacles in all locations I perceive them possibly being used, either immediately or in the future. Where do you plug in your battery charger? Damn I wish I had a light down in the engine bay so I could see! I need a fan in the bilges to keep air circulation. I have nowhere to plug in my laptop on the flybridge! I've exhausted my personal situation to ensure I have power EVERYWHERE!

That said, I have a total of 16 AC Receptacles layed out (in addition to the above, some of which may be hardwired) in the diagram. Obviously I'm not going to want each on their own breaker - as the sheer amount of triplex wire would probably bankrupt me!



AC RECEPTACLE LIST:

Flybridge
1x Port Locker AC Outlet
1x Starboard Locker AC Outlet
Aft Deck
1x Centered AC Outlet
Aft Cabin
1x Bedside AC Outlet
1x Vanity AC Outlet
1x Aft Head AC Outlet
Salon
1x Port Bulkhead AC Outlet
1x Port Forward AC Outlet
1x Starboard Bulkhead AC Outlet
1x Starboard Forward AC Outlet (at panel)
Dinette/Galley
1x Dinette AC Outlet
1x Galley Outlet
V-Berth
1x Port AC Outlet
Bilge (**)
1x Aft AC Outlet
1x Port AC Outlet in Engine Room
1x Starboard AC Outlet in Engine Room

** Pay extra special attention when actually wiring in the bilges. Everything MUST be GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupted) and grounded properly. Gases can build up in the bilges and if a mistake is made, this could be lethal!

WIRING NEEDS

I won't get into ABYC standards yet, as we're still just assessing what our circuits will be which will lead to details of the actual wiring.

Now I have 16 AC Outlets in addition to the above 5 or 6 circuits. How do I make this economically viable. I know in the end, I will need a decent panel and while I don't want to cheap out, I also don't want to break the budget here. I have to combine the 16 AC Outlets into their own circuits - which means, I have to think, given the position of each, what "could" be plugged in on that circuit simultaneously. I won't bore you with my reasoning for each circuit I've designed, but I'll give this example. One circuit will combing the following outlets:

1x Flybridge AC
1x Aft Head
1x Salon Port Side

I now have 3 AC's on one circuit. I figure I'll rarely utilize any AC on the flybridge. Possibly when I'm kicking back working on my laptop... on the high power consumption level, "maybe" a plug-in fridge cooler. Either case, it will be sporadic and in the case of the laptop, it will draw low amps (we'll deal with calculating amp draws down the road). The AC in the Aft Head, well - maybe I'll recharge my electric razor... or maybe I'll be lucky enough when this is all done to have some woman wake up and need to plug in a hair dryer . Hair dryer is the key element, as they are power hogs and can easily trip a circuit if not powered properly. The 3rd in the circuit, Salon Port Side, will simply be a plug in the main salon. Perhaps it may power a table lamp or something to the effect - nothing major. When I look at all the possibilities, the hair dryer is key (I must have some wishful thinking here! haha). If it's plugged in, and at most a laptop and couple of table lamps are plugged in - then I'm not going to run the risk of tripping the circuit.

Another point is when setting up this schematic, I don't want one item to trip A) An entire side of the boat or; B) An entire section of the boat whenever possible. IE: I don't want that hairdryer to trip the whole aft cabin... or I don't want the entire galley killed at once. Very similar to home wiring, when if done right (and space allows for more wiring) - you can have 2 separate circuits on one AC Receptacle. Sadly on a boat, I'm not going to go to the extreme of multiple circuits on one outlet though. Instead I'll be configuring these outlets so that each section of the vessel has more than one circuit within its' floorplan. I have a method to my madness, and you will have a unique one to yours.

I don't like to have more than 3 or 4 AC Outlet's on one circuit. My reasoning is about as sound as pulling a number out of a hat.



In the diagram above, specifically the 'Cabins' diagram, it's important to note, that while the wiring trace is shown on a particular level, as much wiring as possible will be contained within the Bilge of the boat and brought up on vertical posts to their respectable receptacles.

CHOOSING A PANEL

From all the above, I've learned that I'll need an AC Panel with 11 separate breakers (including my non existent Air Con Unit).

I know Blue Sea Systems has a combo (AC & DC) panel for about a thousand bucks. It has 12 AC Breakers (hey - I'll have a spare!) and 3 AC Sources. I also prefer the analogue metres compared to digital - but this is personal preference. This is important as we may come to rely on this down the road when we factor in the generator as a potential AC source (while at sea).

Here's a picture of the possible panel solution (there are several manufacturers, Blue Sea is just being used as an example and not necessarily the one I'll be going with):



One of the key factors why I haven't made up my mind on the panel - is that I haven't assessed my DC requirements as of yet. This specific panel does have 19 DC breakers, so I'm sure it will suffice, but not willing to buy until I've assessed it further.

So the panel is a bit premature... and to be honest, it holds little relevance when wiring the AC circuits. Everything can be roughed in with loose ends at the main box housing before I've made up my mind.

Let's discuss wire type, gauge, etc. next.

[Wood Commander]

I hope you take this in a goodhearted way, but please don't call it a sump pump!

[campjer]

Hi Bret... I'm not mixing 'sump' up with 'bilge' pump here if that's what you're thinking??

I'm honestly speaking of a 120v sump pump that you would put in the lowest point of your house... I guess I could call it a 'Bilge Pump on Steroids', but is there a nautical term for a sump that I just don't know?

For those wondering why I'm including a sump pump (I have no clue if it's standard on most vessels)... it's just really just cheap insurance when you're not on your boat and it takes on a tonne of water. If for whatever reason your batteries are dead but your AC is active - a sump pump will bail the water a helluva lot faster than one or two small bilge pumps could hope to. Do a search in the forums for 'Rideau' and find the link to an earlier experience on my '61 32' Connie.

[Al Benton]

Jeremy,

Looks good so far. You could probably get by with fewer 120V circuits but who knows? You never know what the future will bring. I would opt for 2 circuits in the galley. I tripped the galley CB in my little cruiser on our 230 mile cruise by running the coffee maker while trying to microwave a breakfast treat. Two circuits will allow 2 counter-top appliances to be used at the same time. I would put 2 duplex outlets there on 2 separate circuits. There goes the spare.

The other thing is regarding GFCI receptacles. They don't offer protection from fumes in the engine room. They'll trip if something accidentally gets grounded but aren't an arc-fault protective device.

OK, they are actually called bilge pumps in a boat. Hey, it's a floating home, homes have sump pumps in the basement, right?

Al

Jeremy, I have a portable 120V AC pump in my boat too. It's not mounted permanently but I can get to it quickly, plug it in and move a lot of water with it if needed.

[campjer]

Wire Type Assessment

One of my main questions and one I've seen across many many forums online through my research, is this:

"Can I use regular household wiring to wire the AC on my boat?"

The easy answer is "Yes". My answer is "No".

While you in theory can use household wiring - there is a reason an entirely different standard has been developed for marine application... and while I'm no more a fan of paying triple for a marine product than I would for it's use in the regular world - when it comes to something like powering my vessel (especially a beauty like this) - I won't take safety lightly.

"Stray Current" - current that exists in places you don't desire or want it to can be extremely dangerous. Last night I found a random website that showed how someone accidentally wired a hot cable to the ground on his boat, electrifying it, which resulted in the electrocution drowning deaths of both his wife and daughter. Horrific. While his terrible mistake was simply a dumb mistake - it stresses the fact of how important safety is while re-wiring. 'Nuff said on that.

ABYC Standards of note:
-Triplex Marine Grade Wiring (hot - black, neutral - white and safety-ground - green or bare)
- -20 C to +105 C Dry Insulated Rating
-600v Maximum
-Oil, Moisture & Fungus Resistant
-14 Gauge Minimum

What's the difference between Triplex ABYC Approved and regular SAE/CSA wiring? Aside from it being tested in marine applications, the core is combined of several much smaller wires where as housing wire is typically solid core (stay away from solid core wiring on all marine applications!). The second is that the copper is tinned. Lastly, SAE/CSA wire is up to 12% smaller than AWG Boat Wire... this can throw our calculations later off quite a bit.




Why Multi Thread Wire?

Ships hulls and everything contained within, unless in zero gravity, which isn't the case here, are always under constant stress. Things push and pull even if ever so slightly. Over time, the wear on solid core copper wire can be so stressful that they eventually just "snap"! Multi-thread copper wire is much more pliable and "gives" more during constant flux - increasing the longevity of the connections and wiring.

What Is Tinned Copper?

It's exactly as it sounds. Copper wiring that has a coating of tin on it. The purpose of this deals mostly with how different metals interact with each other. Copper while interacting with certain alloys on a boat, in a damp environment, excels the rate of corrosion, results in amperage & voltage loss and potentially to completely fault connections that can spark in areas of gas build up (your bilge primarily). You can cheat this process by purchasing untinned copper and soldering the exposed copper, but I'm not going to endorse or expand on this. If you want to do it this way, Google can help you. Base point here, tinned copper gives the least electrical resistance with the most corrosion protection.

What Gauge of Wire to Use?

ABYC Standards, as stated above, calls for a minimum 14ga wire to be used for 120v systems, and has 3 conductors. This is called 'Triplex'. There are several manufacturers including Ancor, American Insulated Wire, Camco, Pacer, etc. Prices vary depending on where you're buying - I've seen the exact same product from Ancor vary by as much as $60 for a 100' spool between vendors.

Back to the gauge though. We know the minimum gauge we can use is 14. This is probably fine in smaller boats where you're not routing, splitting, adding junction boxes and doing who knows what else which could result in power drop. I think for my purposes, I'll most likely put 10 or 12 gauge throughout. This could increase my costs for wiring by 25% to 50%, but it will ensure that all areas of the boat will have adequate voltage.

Every breaker on our AC panel is going to be 30amps. Why? Your boat can have 30amp service (and I think it's ABYC code as well). Knowing this, using one sufficient gauge throughout will save us the headaches of measuring voltage drops on the AC side of business. Please note that this logic will be completely thrown out the window when we get to dealing with DC circuits.

My lady is just shy of 42' long, a beam of 12' and it probably stands about 15' tall (unsure). Two runs of wire and I've just eaten up a spool of wire. I'm just guestimating by looking at my drawing and my circuits (the actual lines on paper do not reflect what will be the path of each circuit!) and I hazard to say that I'm going to require about 300-500' of triplex wire. At $100-150 per spool, I might be inclined to go with 12ga instead of 10ga!

I'm still several weeks away from crawling in to start assembly - so what I'll most likely do is buy 2 spools of 12ga to start and buy more as I need it.

Receptacle Selecting

Note: ALL receptacles should be GFCI protected (less engine room and areas of gas build up)!

I have 2 AC Receptacles on the exposed flybridge, one in each locker... plus I have an exposed receptacle on the aft deck. Right away, I know that these three receptacles should be treated differently than the rest ... on top of them being GFCI (see below), they will also be weather proofed. Much like your ugly gray box with the tight snap lid on the outside of your house... though I'll try my damnedest to find the most esthetically looking GFCI/Weatherproof ones on the market. I know I can expect to pay $20-50 per unit here.



What of the remaining receptacles? I have 13 left (assuming I hard wire the main appliances). I see various products offered for $40 per duplex receptacle. Personally, I don't want to pay $500-600 for outlets - marine or not. I've researched this extensively, and from what I've found so far - as long as the receptacle is GFCI protected and housed properly, I should be able to get away with products in the $10-15 range here (I just found a 3pk on sale for $39...I'll take 5!).

insert
Al has just brought up an interesting point about fume protection and how GFCI does not protect from this. Al - could you elaborate here as to what the best solution is?


GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter)



All circuits should be GFCI protected. Subject to what Al is about to teach me !

Conduit

Typically boats do not use any form of conduit for housing wiring. Instead, strands are hung by non-metallic hangars, clamps, ties, etc. (I believe affixing them every 18" is to ABYC code). I'm not sure if there's any benefit or risk to using conduit at this point. It sure could make for a cleaner, more organized setup, but it could be overkill as well, given the standards that the triplex wiring already meets. More to come at a later date.

Junction Boxes

I'm just getting to the point where I need to assess the junction boxes I'll be using for securing my splits in. Typically in a residential building, you would use a metal box, grounding the circuit to the actual box... but we know not to do that on a boat. I'm exploring the risk factors between metal and plastic junction boxes... to be updated shortly.

Connections

To be elaborated on later, but I've read using Marette's or other spin-on connectors really don't belong on a boat. Everything should be crimped and heat shrinked to assure water resistance within the individual wires. I'll expand on this further once I've researched further.[/i]

[campjer]

Funny thing... I don't think I've given enough thought to realize that both pumps work in the exact same manner from the same location, thus both are "bilge" pumps. Either that or my head is so far into electrical work that plumbing is but a distant vacation spot?! haha.

Thanks for the note on both GFI (mentioned in last post) as well as eating up my spare circuit in the galley. Probably the best possible place to double up - given I enjoy both toast AND coffee in the morning!! I'll be adjusting my wiring plans to accommodate for breakfast.

[campjer]

Jeff,

As Bret mentions, I'll definitely be getting around to everything you're after. The DC Side of things will cover the correct gauges, colours, voltage drops, lengths, etc. more than the AC side (I touch briefly on it, but it's not in depth).

What is your lady you're looking to rewire?


Bret,

Do you have a link for that YouTube video? While I think labeling every 2-inches is a tad excessive, I wish CC had done this initially as it'd make rewiring such an ease! The council is ABYC (American Boat & Yacht Council) - very close . I was researching a product last night called 'Easy Connect' or 'Quick Connect' - something to that effect. Panels are all pre-wired and labeled and you basically snap together two water proof bonnets covering the reciprocals. Interesting, but when dealing with a complete custom job, I'd be afraid to see their invoice.

Cheers,
Jeremy

[Al Benton]

Jeremy,

I have the same dumb problem in the motor home. You can't use the coffee pot and the toaster at the same time at the galley. Thus, we move the toaster to the dinette in the morning. I'll be adding another duplex outlet at the galley in the boat, I have a couple of spare CB's in that panel. We'll live with the problem in the RV.

You are correct on the wire type. Actually #12 is fine for size but use 20 Amp branch circuit breakers to protect it. Voltage drop isn't so much a problem for the 120 volt AC circuits but definitely is very critical for 12 volt DC circuiting.

Jeremy, you're doing great with this and I apologize for my interruptions.

Al

[Wood Commander]

Here's the YouTube video link. There's several good ones from the Chris Craft Company including one called "The History of Chris Craft".

Just go to YouTube and type in "Chris Craft", there are a lot of cool things. There's a couple of a guy redoing the transom and the entire cabin side of a 1950 Double Cabin Flybridge, waayy cool!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGoVQncF ... re=related

[Al Benton]

I watched the Chris-Craft video, very interesting indeed. The wire they use would be great to have but it may be marked that way through an exclusive contract with the supplier. To package pre-marked wire for retail sales may be cost prohibitive. Very cool though.

Jeremy, the use of any non-marine device in the bilge can add a certain amount of risk although folks do it regularly on engines. An outlet down there adds some risk. They are capable of causing an arc when certain things are plugged into them whether it be a GFCI or a newer Arc Fault Interrupter devices that I hear are now available for residential use. The AFI device will detect an arc and turn off but the arc itself could feasibly ignite fumes.

Unless it's for a large, well ventilated engine room with flooring and the actual bilge is below that, it's not recommended to install plug-in outlets or any device that is capable of causing an arc.

Al

[evansjw44]

I would be careful choosing breaker sizes. If you use the same size breaker for a branch circuit as the main then you can't predict which one will trip for a fault. Typical breakers don't trip at rated current. They trip at 225% of rated current. So, a branch circuit with a 20 amp breaker won't trip until the current reaches 45 amps, and then that will be a slow trip.

Perhaps you can select breakers with a lower trip point but that might take some carefull searching.

[Wilson Wright]

Not to hijack this series but anyone know where you can buy a VHS radio to use in the house that works on 110/120 volts or if not where to buy an economical converter or transformer or what ever you call it to allow 110/120 to run a radio designed for 12 volts. Seems like all of West Marine's radios run on 12 volts but not on household current, even tho they sold me an antenna to put on my roof.

[Al Benton]

Wilson,

It is strange that you can't even go to Radio Shack web store and find one. They have all kinds of adapters but none that look right for what you want to do. I guess you could get a sealed car (boat) battery and a charger and hook the radio to it. May look a little out of place but...

Al

[BrokenRule2]

When it comes to the 120V AC I would follow the National Electrical Code (NEC) then over lay the other marine codes - you can downlaod the USCG rules and regs the manufactureers use for building new boats. The other guys charge you.

Never install a circuit breaker larger than the wire is rated for - do not put a 30A CB on #14 wire, normal AC circuits under the NEC only allow for 15A. Yes I know the stranded wire can handle higer current than soild household but, as said previously, most CB's do not trip at the rated current and within the required time frame.

You can safety size the AC circuits by the NEC. Arch-fault is something to consider when mixing plug and lighting loads.

The NEC has a section that cover explosion proof locations.

Good Luck

[Captbob626]

I have an inexpensive one that I use at home for boat electronics. Works great, I think I bought it at Radio Shack. Just make sure it has enough amps to run the radio you desire.
Bob

[Al Benton]

Most circuit breakers have an overload current rating, which is approximately 80% of the face value of the CB. Thus, a 20A CB should trip open if the constant load is above around 16 amps. A 15 amp one should trip at about 12 amps of constant load. They also have a fault current rating. This is the current that they can stand before self destructing. Most CB's will open the circuit before the current gets that high, thus, they don't usually explode. As Jim pointed out, this can be extremely high current.

In a panel or distribution center that has a 30 amp or even a 50 amp main CB and 15 or 20 amp branch CB's, a fault current in one of the branch circuits could feasibly trip the main device an instant before the smaller branch device. Circuit breakers are a mechanical device that needs to interrupt a grounded circuit instantaneously or things fry, so they're all very quick to react. A solid fault in a circuit causes instant high current to flow through both devices so one or both could break the circuit before anything is damaged.

Al

[Rugger8]

Jeremy,

I have the precursor to your boat. a 1947 , 46' DCFB. This has been extremely helpful to me and I will probably follow your plan pretty closely. One question for you though, are you having 2 30 amp shore power inlets? And what guage wire are you using from your shorepower inlet to the circuit breaker? 10 guage?

Here is a pic of my boat.

Jeff

[Al Benton]

Jeff,

If you expect to have more than around 24 amps of 120 volt things running at the same time you will need either 2) 30 amp shore power sources or perhaps 1) 50 amp source. The problem with the 50 amp is that not too many transient facilities have and outlet for them.

Oh, 24 amps at 120 volts equals 2,880 watts. A small Frig, TV, Microwave and Coffee Pot could easily add up to around 2500 watts, more or less. So an Electric Heater or AC couldn't be used unless you have another 30 amp shore power source for them and possibly other 120 volt appliances. Don't forget the battery charger, if you have an Electric Head and Water Pressure System draining your battery, the charger will be pulling some watts too.

Al

[Rugger8]

Thanks Al,

sorry for the late response, but that helps.

Jeremy - do you have an update??? I have been looking at the panels and think I may go with the system you have listed above. BTW, Jamestown currently has it listed at $840 vs. $1100+ at other stores, so that may make sense to get now if that is the one you think will work. Also, try getting your marine wire off of ebay. I was able to get 250 feet of 12/3 triplex marine tinned wire for $150. Also got 12/2 duplex and 10/2 duplex at 40-50% less than what Jamestown is at for example. I have not started yet, just trying to get all my materials when I can get them cheap.'

Hope all is well,

Jeff

[campjer]

Hi All,

I'll be getting back to replies, etc. soon - sorry for the delay... Xmas + skiing for a while + Haiti disaster has had me pretty occupied. Stay tuned!

[campjer]

One question for you though, are you having 2 30 amp shore power inlets? And what guage wire are you using from your shorepower inlet to the circuit breaker? 10 guage?

Jeff, I finally have my BlueSea 8086 Panel! I found one out of California for $700, and with my dollar at par (or almost at time of transaction), I couldn't let it go. It's 2-yrs old but was build into a much larger set-in with a genset/turbine hook-up with gauges.

In answer to your question - I haven't yet determined which gauge I will be using as I haven't settled on where my panel placement will be. If I go with the most logical place (Starboard Salon inside side door) then yes, I'll more than likely go with 10ga. I've been reading however on distance between main panel and power inlet in regards to distance. From what I gather, if you are more than 10', you must install an additional inline fuse between the panel and the plug. As I keep progressing I will update you on this.

[Rugger8]

Thanks Jeremy,

Where did you buy your panel from? That sounds like a great price. I have bought some of my wire, but have not progressed much beyond that. However, I have made good progress on my engine. I have a newly reconditioned exhaust manifold that I will be putting on this weekend, so hopefully that will take care of my engine overheating problem, then I can work on the other aspects like wiring and cosmetic improvements.

Jeff

[campjer]

Jeff,

I lucked in with the panel... it was off eBay. I had been holding off buying one for 3-months, watching our dollar climb. Then mine came up on eBay and I pounced (2hrs before I literally was about to buy one new at 1.5x the price!).

That sounds great with the progress on your engine. My engines were supposedly rebuilt about 500 hours ago (???) and are still quite strong. Believe me - I see the 'M' Engines someone has posted on TradingDock as well as eBay and other places out of Michigan - and I almost want to pull mine and drop in nice shiny new ones... but keeping the original engines with the same ship I hold in high regard. We'll see how my water tests go and hopefully I won't need to do ANY engine work this year!

By the time you're complete on your engines - I should be well done my electrics... be sure to post any insanities you encounter so I might learn from you as well!

Cheers!

[Rugger8]

So what engines do you have in yours. I have the Hercules WB engines. I would think yours probably had similar engines. If so, I have 4 spare engines, so if you end up needing parts, I can probably help. There is a thread on my overheating issue, that I will update, once I put the new manifold on, hopefully that will have solved the issue.

Jeff

[campjer]

Mine has twin MLR Hercules. As I mentioned - they have been rebuilt, but you wouldn't really know it to look at it (why people rebuild and don't detail while they're out is beyond me). Fingers crossed that your issues get solved quick and provide you with a season of worry free boating!