Famo-Wood Questions

[PaulK]

Hello,

I am restoring a 1956 30' Sea Skiff and have a question on Famo-Wood.

It seems that the original screw holes were filled with Famo-Wood or similar. I am stripping the hull down to bare. Should I dig out the original and replace or just leave it alone if it is solid? Also, should I use Famo-Wood again? Is there a better product. Honestly Famo-Wood does not seem that durable to me but I know a lot of guys swear by it. Is it good below the waterline as well?

Thanks for any advice!

Paul

[mbigpops]

Paul,

If it were me I would dig out all the filler and check all the fasteners to make sure they are tight and then re-fill with Famowood.

Yes it is durable and recommended below the waterline.

Mark

[maritimeclassics]

I only use Famo-Wood above the waterline and when it is in an area that needs stain. The natural colored Famo-Wood is the best for the acceptance of the stain color. Below the waterline I use Bondo for the screw holes or you could use epoxy. What I like about bondo is it has a quick drying time so you can put it on and sand it smooth with in hours.

[boat_art]

I have used elmers exterior wood filler below the water line. Never had a problem. Best of all, 95% ends up in the holes, unlike famowood where 95% ends up in the floor.

[steve bunda]

LOL, famowood , most stays in the can dried up , Anyway , Bondo on the bottom, Famo mahogany above , unless wood bugs are used. never tried the elmers , but will look at it.

[Jim Bell]

Cannot find Famowood in Canada. Anyone know if it is available?

[jim g]

West epoxy with alot of West 407 filler mixed in it. I have a customers 27' open twin 283 Sea Skiff that I puttied all the screw and copper clinch nails holes with 12 years ago. Not one has fallen out And its been on 4 or 5 week long river cruises over the years.

[Doug P]

Cannot find Famowood in Canada. Anyone know if it is available?

Windsor Plywood

[mbigpops]

When you buy Famowood buy the solvent for it as well. That way you can loosen it up a little to load into an empty caulking tube and dispense that way to speed up the process. When you apply it have your puttty knife go in all directions so it sticks to the walls of your screw hole really well. It may shrink a little. You will find this out and learn how much to put in each hole.

You can also add some solvent to the can if it dries up some.

Mark

[PaulK]

Thanks for all the great replies! I really have wanted to go the epoxy with 407 route as I am using quite a bit of that fair smooth the hull and could just put it in the screw holes as I go. But I have been afraid that if I ever needed to take the screw out I would be, well, um, screwed

Thoughts?

[boat_art]

Agree...epoxy is fine for lapstrakes but for carvel you will never get the screws out.

[PaulK]

Oh and while we are on the subject. My boat being a 1956 has copper rivets instead of clinch nails. They are pretty much flush with the surface of the plywood. If I fair them with o-1/32" of epoxy do you think that will be ok or do you suggest driving all of them a bit deeper (1/16") to accept the filler more completely. I would hate to have a bunch of nail pops in my new paint job!

Not looking forward to driving every rivet again but I want to do it right. My helper will be even less thrilled.

[boat_art]

I think you will be fine. No different than a skim coat of epoxy on the ply, as long as everything is clean and dust free.