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Guardian 454 motor for XK 18

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Riv51
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Post by Riv51 » Wed Apr 06, 2011 5:44 pm

There are only 4 registered with the club.

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Budgiecat2
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Joined: Sun Dec 31, 2006 2:16 pm
Location: Florida & Oklahoma

Post by Budgiecat2 » Thu Apr 07, 2011 12:39 pm

I have a 1972 XK-18, named Pumpkin for obvious reasons. I thought it might be helpful to post a copy of the Chris craft Essential Guide sheet on the XK-18, as well as one of the cut sheets that I got from the Mariner's Museum archive some time back with original specs on the boat. Sorry, I do not have any specs on the Guardian Engine. Mine also has a new block, over-bored, cam, 750 carb and original Jacuzzi pump.
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lyons
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Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2011 7:03 pm
Location: amsterdam, ny

picked up boat today

Post by lyons » Sat Apr 09, 2011 1:50 pm

here is some pics of the new project xk18..fiberglass is realy oxidized especially on the top of hull..how do i get it to shine again?
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Riv51
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Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 8:25 pm
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Post by Riv51 » Sat Apr 09, 2011 2:45 pm

Great pictures Shawn. Looks like someone may have clear coated the boat. Is the topside oxidized or is the clear coat popping off?
I used 3M 05954 Super Duty Rubbing compound to bring back my hull, then 3M 35928 Marine Finesse-it, then wax. You may have to remove the clear coat then do the heavy duty rub...

Riv51
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Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 8:25 pm
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Post by Riv51 » Sat Apr 09, 2011 2:47 pm

Could you post photos of the interior and the engine compartment? My boat is exactly the same as yours. I have posted some photos earlier in this thread... What is the hull ID number?
.....Mark

lyons
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Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2011 7:03 pm
Location: amsterdam, ny

Post by lyons » Sat Apr 09, 2011 8:35 pm

how do you know if there is clear coat on the hull? and if it is how do you remove it? in the really bad areas it looks like the flake is right up to the surface..rough/pitted feeling. did you use a electric buffer with the compound? the hull number is
ORAJ-18-0092

Riv51
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Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 8:25 pm
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Post by Riv51 » Sat Apr 09, 2011 9:51 pm

If its been cleared it will look like a thin skin, you might be able to flake some up with your finger nail. You may have to use a stripper to get it off, neutralize with thinner, test in a small area first. I did all by hand. Gelcoat won't flake off. Some guys may consider painting the boat at this point...

lyons
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Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2011 7:03 pm
Location: amsterdam, ny

Post by lyons » Sat Apr 09, 2011 10:20 pm

we don't want to paint the boat, i am going to try to get the shine back to the gelgoat. the interior is the same as your, shag carpet and all, the seats are out and are in great shape just have to clean them up they are just dirty

Riv51
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Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 8:25 pm
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Post by Riv51 » Sun Apr 10, 2011 8:14 pm

Did you try to shine'r up?

lyons
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Location: amsterdam, ny

Post by lyons » Mon Apr 11, 2011 7:13 pm

i started to buff engine cover and it started to shine again the bronze on the bow was a diffrent story it seems that the metalflake is at the surface? buffing it made it a lot nicer looking but still not darker bronze color a lighter bronze is what it looks like could the sun bake gelcoat that bad? if it did could it be wet sanded with out wrecking gelcoat ?

Riv51
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Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 8:25 pm
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Post by Riv51 » Mon Apr 11, 2011 7:24 pm

The sun could do that... You could try wet sanding. Be careful not to sand through gelcoat. I have wet sanded some very heavy oxidized glass boats back to life.

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craigjudge
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Post by craigjudge » Mon Apr 11, 2011 7:53 pm

I would try wet sanding with 1000 grit paper. You'll know pretty quickly if you have enough finish left. Buffing does the same as wet sanding, it removes very thin layers of paint. In my experience, unless you're very experienced with the buffing process, there's a greater chance of buffing too far into the paint. Wet sanding with a fine grit paper allows for more control.
I've redone a couple of old Checkmates with metal flake. Early metal-flake glass boats are very difficult to bring back evenly. Whether you wet sand or buff, it's very difficult to end up with an even finish. Especially topside. Chances are, you'll end up with darker and lighter spots. At the very least, wet sand with 100 or 1200 and then clear-coat. The problem is the cost is probably close to just doing a full repaint. In my humble opinion, these boats are rare and unique enough to deserve a proper paint job.

lyons
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Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2011 7:03 pm
Location: amsterdam, ny

Post by lyons » Tue Apr 12, 2011 6:01 pm

thanks for all of the info i will work on it this weekend and post the results

lyons
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Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2011 7:03 pm
Location: amsterdam, ny

Post by lyons » Sat Apr 16, 2011 8:41 pm

we tore down the 454 to find that there were multiple bent push rods a couple of stuck valves and badly wore cam. we think that the valves were tightened down to much then run. the stuck valves was due from years of sitting while apart we noticed that the big block was very clean inside it was bored 30 over has flat top pistons. the heads have stainless valves hardened seats teflon seals. while apart new main and rod bearings will be insalled. does anybody have a good sugestion for a cam that would work good for this boat?

thanks shawn

Riv51
Posts: 28
Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 8:25 pm
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Post by Riv51 » Sat Apr 16, 2011 9:41 pm

Guardian Marine put their own cam in this motor. I don't know what it is. Van Ness Engineering says they know this motors specs out at... It originally had a cam for a Chris Craft Thermocon Marine 454 before Chris Craft sent it off to Guardian. Kinda of how this thread started off...

lyons
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Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2011 7:03 pm
Location: amsterdam, ny

Post by lyons » Sat Apr 23, 2011 10:15 am

the block went to machine shop this morning for new cam bearings ,powerhoned,magnafluxed and washed. was the intake originaly painted on these motors or left bare? going by pics looks like block was painted blue any info would be helpfull shawn

Riv51
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Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 8:25 pm
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Post by Riv51 » Mon Apr 25, 2011 8:56 pm

Mine was painted black. The manifold part number cross references with Chevy Corvette big block and has some some value... I cleaned mine and polished it up, looks nice.

Riv51
Posts: 28
Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 8:25 pm
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Post by Riv51 » Mon Apr 25, 2011 9:24 pm

Post some more photos! Interior shots and engine compartment...

lyons
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2011 7:03 pm
Location: amsterdam, ny

Post by lyons » Mon May 02, 2011 8:05 pm

got the block back from machineshop and got it into a shortblock still waiting for heads to be checked out hopefully it will be all together by weekend. i will get interior pics and engine compartment tomorrow night

shawn

Riv51
Posts: 28
Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 8:25 pm
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Post by Riv51 » Wed Jun 22, 2011 10:30 pm

Shawn,
How are you making out with that XK boat?

Riv51
Posts: 28
Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 8:25 pm
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

'73 XK 18 running

Post by Riv51 » Tue Jun 28, 2011 4:20 pm

Finally got it in the water and running...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7xqNPrRpdlM

Small bugs to work out. I'll be at Chautauqua Lake boat show July 9th with this boat.
.....Mark

Riv51
Posts: 28
Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 8:25 pm
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

XK 18 video

Post by Riv51 » Tue Jun 28, 2011 4:22 pm

Take a look, all original guages and finish. New interior coverings, original carpet...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s-ytsVuK ... re=related

.....Mark

jameshooper
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Joined: Fri Dec 02, 2011 3:14 pm

Re: Guardian 454 motor for XK 18

Post by jameshooper » Sun May 19, 2013 5:02 pm

Hey Mark check your PMs.
James

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Paul P
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Location: Nashville, Tennessee, Cumberland River and Lake system
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Re: Guardian 454 motor for XK 18

Post by Paul P » Fri Jul 26, 2013 4:27 pm

As a postscript to this older thread, anyone using the Glenwood style exhaust logs like this one should be advised to run the inlet water to tbe backside of the log, rather than to feet from the front. Doing this will almost eliminate any chance that there would be an air pocket at the upper reaches of the manifold, in which case the hot flame off the exhaust could melt the aluminum.

regards,

Paul
1956 17' CC Sportsman, 300-hp
1957 17' CC Sportsman, 95-hp
1966 20' CC fiberglass Sea Skiff, 210-hp+
1973 23' CC Lancer inboard project, 427/375-hp.
1966 38' CC Commander Express, 427/300-hp(2)

So many boats.........so little time.....but what a way to go!!

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