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Epoxy bottoms

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boat_art
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Re: Epoxy bottoms

Post by boat_art » Wed Mar 09, 2016 6:17 am

Jim
I have re-done numerous "no-soak" bottoms that weren't done right but those pics take the cake! Thanks for sharing!
Tom
http://www.boatartgallery.com
1956 CC Connie 47'
1959 Caulkins bartender
1965 Cheoy Lee Frisco Flyer
1953 Chris Craft Holiday
1941 Chris Craft Deluxe
Plus 8-12 customer boats at any time
God don't count the days spent messing around in wood boats.

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mfine
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Re: Epoxy bottoms

Post by mfine » Wed Mar 09, 2016 7:25 am

The big question is what would your system potentially give you that a 5200 system would not?

What you propose does not look any quicker or cheaper, and I don't see how it would improve ride, longevity, water tightness or anything that comes to mind.

If you are thinking up a solution in search of a problem, I would stick to a tried and true method. Is there a specific shortcoming of the 5200 system you want to address?

joanroy
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Re: Epoxy bottoms

Post by joanroy » Wed Mar 09, 2016 8:20 am

Epoxy and 5200 bottoms are both viable systems that have some quirks. Epoxy is stiff and could crack allowing water into the cores. 5200 flexes but not easily repairable and I still have some doubt about the mahogany outer plankings breath ability. Greg Wallace talks about this in a previous post. Barrier Coat is an epoxy and was developed as a coating for use on fiberglass hulls as a water proofing. It just seems like both these systems rely on complete encapsulation on way or another and with a boat that is soaked for extended periods that's hard to achieve 100 percent. That said, I think their both fine if used and maintained accordingly.

The only real difference between the original bottom and what I'm proposing is the addition of the dynel in place of the canvas. I want the outer planks to soak up and swell in the water and shrink up and dry on the hard. The dynel just makes it leak proof while the swelling take place. I'm in salt water so no rot can grow when submersed and if rapid drying can take place after haul the planks should outlast the fasteners.

Greg Wallace
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Re: Epoxy bottoms

Post by Greg Wallace » Wed Mar 09, 2016 8:42 am

IMHO

If I were intent on "sheathing" I would stick with cold molded and sheath/epoxy the outside layer were it would do the most good and minimize fastener holes.

This method is tried and true when done properly.

If I were going with "enhanced traditional I would go with the 5200 bottom tried and true formula and not mix it up.

Mixing traditional with epoxy (below the waterline) in general should be avoided.

IMHO.
Greg Wallace 23 Custom 22166 former Chris-Craft dealer Russells Point, Oh.

Tightline5
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Re: Epoxy bottoms

Post by Tightline5 » Wed Mar 09, 2016 8:49 am

Jon, contact Pat Cruise, at "Crusine Classics" in Mooresville NC. He ONLY does epoxy restorations for 30 years. And he does them correctly.
Phil Jones

1948 US Plywood Executive Runabout Hull #1 "WeldWood"
1954 Racing Runabout R-496
1957 Deluxe Runabout D-17-2062
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boat_art
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Re: Epoxy bottoms

Post by boat_art » Wed Mar 09, 2016 3:29 pm

Questions have come up about "barrier coat" being "waterproof". Keep in mind there is a big difference between "waterproof" and "water resistant". Barrier coat is NOT waterproof. This is from the site for Interprotect:

Interprotect® 2000E with Microplates® is a unique two-part epoxy coating developed to protect fiberglass hulls from water absorption, which can lead to osmotic blistering. Microplates® create an overlapping barrier to help stop water migration through the coating

Nowhere do they claim "waterproof". Note they say it can "help stop water migration".

Tom
http://www.boatartgallery.com
1956 CC Connie 47'
1959 Caulkins bartender
1965 Cheoy Lee Frisco Flyer
1953 Chris Craft Holiday
1941 Chris Craft Deluxe
Plus 8-12 customer boats at any time
God don't count the days spent messing around in wood boats.

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mfine
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Re: Epoxy bottoms

Post by mfine » Wed Mar 09, 2016 9:45 pm

joanroy wrote:I want the outer planks to soak up and swell in the water and shrink up and dry on the hard. The dynel just makes it leak proof while the swelling take place. I'm in salt water so no rot can grow when submersed and if rapid drying can take place after haul the planks should outlast the fasteners.
No! You don't want the wood to swell and shrink. Repeating that process over and over damages the wood, breaks the fasteners, elongates the holes in the frames, and can break the frames. That is more likely to destroy the bottom before rot does even in fresh water boats.

joanroy
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Re: Epoxy bottoms

Post by joanroy » Thu Mar 10, 2016 1:15 pm

Fastener integrity is another issue to consider. Ultimately I wish to do what's best to preserve this rare Red and White. With the exception of the original horn, leather upholstery, and a couple of minor modifications, on a scale of 1 to 10 this boats originality is a 10. Matching numbers engine, all the hardware, cut water, windshield, running gear, engine and owners manual, canvas covered bumpers, tide chart from 1968, everything's there. Even has a vintage men's bathing suit hanging in the cabin. Unfortunately because of how she was stored for the last 40 years, condition wise she's a 4 out of 10. So, it needs a full bottom up restoration and when done I want the boat to be as original as practically possible. The great information I'm getting here leeds me to believe the consensus is an original bottom treatment is no longer viable. 5200 or laminated epoxy are the way to go and is the excepted standard. Which one you think is better depends on who you ask.

Great discussion guys. Very helpful. I let you know what I decide when I get there.

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mfine
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Re: Epoxy bottoms

Post by mfine » Thu Mar 10, 2016 7:13 pm

Traditional is a viable option, but it will have less durability and longevity.

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Don Vogt
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Re: Epoxy bottoms

Post by Don Vogt » Thu Mar 10, 2016 7:21 pm

A well cared for properly done traditional bottom will probably last longer than most of us. However, i think if you are not going that route, epoxying the whole boat is probably the way to go. are you planning to do it yourself or have it professionally done? often the professional epoxy route would involve skinning everything in plywood and epoxying onto that. that would make the boat bullet proof.
1938 Chris Craft 17' Deluxe Runabout "Jennifer II"

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