283 Antifreeze Winter Protection Questions

1964chris · Post by **1964chris** » Sun Sep 27, 2009 8:47 am

I am a new owner this summer of a 1960 17' ski boat with the 283 inboard. I am not totally familiar with the operation of the cooling system and would like to get any information on how to effectively get antifreeze into the entire system so I will not have any surprises next season. Where would I add the antifreeze and do I need to run the engine to circulate it? Are there any recommended procedures as far as running the engine with the boat on a trailer? Are there any plugs or petcocks that need draining first? I have looked in the archives for this information but have not found too much with any detail. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Jim

tom king · Post by **tom king** » Sun Sep 27, 2009 11:09 am

Some folks put a fresh water valve before the pump and alot of folks use the "Fake-a-Lake" and swear by it. With the fake a lake you mix your antifreeze in a bucket, suck in it in engine and when you see it coming out the exhaust just shut the engine down. Pretty simple.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... ?pid=10544

Dick Baner · Post by **Dick Baner** » Mon Sep 28, 2009 8:19 am

One thing I learned the hard way about winterizing a 283. I have the two way valve that lets me select raw water or water from a hose so I introduce the straight antifreeze that way until it runs out the exhaust. However this does not manage to get water out of the low/rear end of the intake manifold (flywheel forward). You have to open the two plugs on the top of the manifold, let the water out and then reinsert the low plug and fill with antifreeze from the high plug. Failure to do this will often produce a cracked manifold and water in your crankcase the next time you run the boat.

WoodenRookie · Post by **WoodenRookie** » Mon Sep 28, 2009 8:35 am

Dont forget that the engine has to be warmed up so the thermostat is open on the fake a lake method.

evansjw44 · Post by **evansjw44** » Mon Sep 28, 2009 9:24 am

If you have an original 283, it is an open, dual flow through system. It doesn't circulate water around the block like later model 283 and 327a. It puts water into the back of the block where the "car" water pump fits (rear engine mount casting) and takes it out at at the cylinder head in the front and dumps it out the exhaust manifold. It doesn't have a thermostat. The water pump has two chambers, one for each side of the engine. To winterize it is best to drain all the water out of it by removing ALL the drain plugs on the block and manifolds and water pump. You need to clear the drain plug holes of sediment to be sure water flows out. If you want to run antifreeze into it, reinstall the drain plugs and get antifreeze to BOTH water pump inlets and run it until antifreeze runs from both exhaust pipe.

Since your engine could be modified from original, be careful to get all the water out.

WoodenRookie · Post by **WoodenRookie** » Mon Sep 28, 2009 9:48 am

Your right Jim I was thinking about a friend whom failed at that method on a later model motor. excellent procedure advise

evansjw44 · Post by **evansjw44** » Mon Sep 28, 2009 3:27 pm

The importance of draining the block is that water can become trapped in the cooling passages and won't be displaced just by running antifreeze through the system. Draining removes most of the water. Then, running antifreeze through the system leaves what little water leftnmixed with antfreeze. If it does freeze, it will form slush ice that won't do damage.

I don't use antifreeze in my engines. I never have. But I am meticulous about clearing the drains and making sure I see water draining out. It can be a real hassel getting the antifreeze into the system.

1964chris · Post by **1964chris** » Sat Oct 03, 2009 7:12 am

Great Advice! Thank you in advance for no surprises next season.
Jim

tcurtis · Post by **tcurtis** » Thu Oct 22, 2009 11:43 am

Good topic and info. I have been debating using the antifreeze myself. Only because I am not certain where ALL the drain plugs are, and I fear that I may miss some water in there. Can one of you folks post a brief description of the plug inventory and locations on the 283? Thanks for the info, Im getting my boat tucked away this weekend.

evansjw44 · Post by **evansjw44** » Mon Oct 26, 2009 11:49 am

This is from my memory and having just wintereized my 327Fs. I believe the 283 and 327 are very similar but the real differences come from the flywheel forward and the flywheel aft (F) engines. There are two drain plug (cocks) on the block. They are at the oil pan skirt about the center of the block. There are drain plugs in the water pump. For dual chambered pumps there are two on the bottom and maybe two on the top. The exhaust manifold has a plug at the lower end. If you have exhaust risers, then there is a plug at the exhaust flange end of the riser. There is also a plug for the oil cooler if you have a hydraulic transmission.

Still, I would check with someone who regularly services 283s to make sure I gave you all the plugs. Note that opening the drain cock is not sufficient. You have to remove the cock and work a coat hanger wire into the body to insure there is not a pile of derbis blocking water flow.

F version V8s and those with circulating cooling systems also have a drain cock on the water line that runs under the engine to carry the cooling water from the raw water pump to the oil cooler, There is also a drain plug on the bottom of the circulating pump. The raw water pump is single chambered and has a drain plug on the top and bottom of the pump body.

Stovebolt · Post by **Stovebolt** » Fri Nov 20, 2009 6:56 pm

I know this is about a goofy question as I am gonna ask on this forum, but, you would only winterize your motor if you were gonna leave the boat outside, and leave it suseptable to freezing, right? If it is parked inside, there is no need to winterize, but is there anything else that is good to do for storage?

Chad Durren · Post by **Chad Durren** » Fri Nov 20, 2009 9:15 pm

Aside from the anti-freeze routine I like to change the oil,
put some STABIL in the fuel tank,
run the engine for a few minutes,
fog the carb with cleaner,
pour a little oil in each cylinder,
disconnect the battery,
unscrew the bilge plug,
wipe her down,
polish the chrome and cover her with a soft dust cover.

Did I forget anything?

Stovebolt · Post by **Stovebolt** » Sat Nov 21, 2009 3:00 pm

You completely answered my question in one post! Thank you!

Chad Durren · Post by **Chad Durren** » Sat Nov 21, 2009 8:51 pm

And stuff a rag in the tailpipe to keep out the critters.

rgmxk22 · Post by **rgmxk22** » Sat Dec 19, 2009 11:42 pm

One thing I'd like to mention, is that Stovebolt is right about if the boat was stored inside in a heated location, yes, you could try to get away with not winterizing the engine.

But I am kind of a what if sort of thinker. And my "what if" here is what happens if for some reason, the storage location loses the heat? I mean if you live in a cold enough climate that could freeze and break the engine, there is always the chance that a winter storm knocks out power for a while and causes the building to lose heat. Or if somehow by mechanical problems or human error, you lose heat in the building?

I'm not saying that could happen in everyone's situation, but I'd sure feel better knowing that my engine was at least drained for the winter.

Ron Michael
72 CC XK22

Al Benton · Post by **Al Benton** » Sun Dec 20, 2009 11:50 am

Tyson,

It it's an attached garage that's heated from the home system it may not be as much of a risk. It it's in a remote building that's not attended to often the safe thing to do would be to make sure the engine is winterized as Ron points out.

Your sign-out note sure brings back fond memories of my high school days and my own 1959 Chevy with just such a cup holder snuggled up nice and comfortably beside me in a poodle skirt.

Al

evansjw44 · Post by **evansjw44** » Mon Dec 21, 2009 7:47 am

What if you have an ice storm or the like. Your house could be without heat for a week or more. I'm an old utility guy and I can attest to the fact that a good ice storm can leave you cold for a long time. We had one years ago where the outage was 10 days. I just shut off the water in the4 house and drained the pipes, took the cat to my in-laws and took my family to Florida. The power was back on when we got back.

Stovebolt · Post by **Stovebolt** » Mon Apr 26, 2010 4:09 pm

Al, I'm glad you like my sig.

As for the boat and storage, I have had it kept down at my employers warehouse scince I recieved it in December. It is heated, and we would have to have no power for about a week before it got cold enough to freeze in there. But I will heed your warnings and advise, and winterize no matter it's storage location.

I am going to be bringing it up finally probably tomorrow, as the weather is just right. Nice spring days, and yah it rains, but not to worried about a boat getting wet.....it has a cover.

283 Antifreeze Winter Protection Questions

283 Antifreeze Winter Protection Questions

283 antifreeze

1960 283?

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Drain Plugs

What If

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