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Trailer Decisions

If it doesn't pertain to metal, wood, wire or fabric—but it is about vintage Chris-Crafts, ask your question or give your advice here.

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ppeters48
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Post by ppeters48 » Sun Feb 17, 2013 8:55 pm

I would add one thing to the perfect trailer, low profile rollers to the prop guard, they really make a difference when going up a driveway or any kind of ramp or curb apron.
Phil

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Woody Gal
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Trailer decisions

Post by Woody Gal » Mon Feb 18, 2013 9:18 am

Matt,
Get a tandem with brakes, trailer tires, LED lights. No question about that stuff! It's necessary because you have put time & lots of work into your boat. It/you deserve a trailer that will save you the most headaches along the road. Also a good idea to have a few inches of bunk sticking out behind your boat for protection.
Susan Miller

1967 18' CC Super Sport, Daddy Had One
1974 19' CC XK-19, ARRRGH!

Oberon01
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Post by Oberon01 » Mon Feb 18, 2013 9:43 am

WoodyGal -

The 3 custom made trailers that I have had built for my boats all have integrated bumpers of one type or another on the back. The boat is then fully protected from low speed rear impacts. I also usually have a couple of inches of bunk extending past the stern.

When you have a boat as perfectly done as Matt's lovely Gar, there is just no reason at all not to put all safety features the trailer builder offers into the package. The most expensive trailer you could build for this boat is still a fraction of either the cost of restoration or value of the boat so I see no point in scrimping.

I also had to buy a new trailer for my Skiff. This is a pretty good sized boat but is not nearly as valuable as some of my other boats. On that purchase, I bought a new adjustable-bunked aluminum trailer off a well known classic boat guy. It has brakes on both axles and most safety features but cost roughly half or slightly more than a custom trailer would. On a boat that was worth about $15k, I decided that the sacrifices of the aluminum trailer were acceptable in order to keep the cost down. I rationalized (not sure it I did so correctly) that the bonded lapstrake construction and materials of the Skiff made it less vulnerable to a slightly imperfectly fitting trailer than a typical runabout. That said, the fit is fine and the trailer performs well - I have towed it all over North America without problems. It will continue it's journey to Florida from Branson in a few weeks and will return from there to BC in April, so lets hope this record holds!
1926 Mullins 16' Outboard Special
1940 CC 19'Custom
1946 Gar Wood 22' 6" Sedan
1946 16' Peterbrough Falcon
1947 CC 16' Special Runabout
1947 Chris Craft 22' Sportsman
1948 CC 25' Sportsman Sedan
1959 Feather Craft Islander Express Cruiser
1961 CC 21' Continental
1965 Glastron Futura 500 V -164
1965 CC Sea Skiff 24'

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JimF
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Post by JimF » Mon Feb 18, 2013 9:47 am

I am about to build/modify a trailer for my twin engine 24' Sportsman. I am concerned because the props are so near the chines where I planned to put bunks and I don't want the spinning props to hit anything as I load up. I would love to see pictures of how other twin engine boat owners have handled this. I would also like to know the best location for the water intakes to not interfere with the trailer or a boat lift.
1930 Chris-Craft Model 100 20' "MOXIE"
1940 Chris-Craft Red and White 25' "Old Paint"
1946 Chris-Craft Sportsman 25' "CinCity"

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Carrpelll
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Post by Carrpelll » Mon Feb 18, 2013 9:55 am

Another good option is "cage rollers".
The theory here is that are supposed to roll, vs the skid plates that get rusty looking after dragging them across the pavement a few times.
It's surprising but I drag these rollers going in and out of my driveway, back alleys, parking lots, etc. and I am glad I have them. When they wear out, I will just replace them.

Carroll
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1948 - CC 25' Sportsman Sedan
1953 - CC 18' Riviera
1957 - CC 17' Sportsman
1952 chevy pick up

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Woody Gal
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trailer decisions

Post by Woody Gal » Mon Feb 18, 2013 10:04 am

Paul, Integrated bumpers are a great idea!

Jim, when will the the twin Sportsman make it's debut?
Susan Miller

1967 18' CC Super Sport, Daddy Had One
1974 19' CC XK-19, ARRRGH!

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Carrpelll
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Post by Carrpelll » Mon Feb 18, 2013 10:09 am

Sorry, Phil.
I see now that you mentioned the rollers yesterday.
1948 - CC 25' Sportsman Sedan
1953 - CC 18' Riviera
1957 - CC 17' Sportsman
1952 chevy pick up

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JimF
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Post by JimF » Mon Feb 18, 2013 10:20 am

Susan,
When it is done! It seems to have twice as much of everything.
1930 Chris-Craft Model 100 20' "MOXIE"
1940 Chris-Craft Red and White 25' "Old Paint"
1946 Chris-Craft Sportsman 25' "CinCity"

Oberon01
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Post by Oberon01 » Mon Feb 18, 2013 10:47 am

WoodyGal -

See Carrpell's picture. His boat is the same as my Sportsman and his trailer was built by Ryan in Portland, not long after Ryan had done the trailer for my SP. You can see the bumperettes on the back of the trailer - they are inserted into the trailer frame. These do not need to be removed to launch, as prior versions did. The stern floats enough to clear them. Great idea....Matt take a look!
1926 Mullins 16' Outboard Special
1940 CC 19'Custom
1946 Gar Wood 22' 6" Sedan
1946 16' Peterbrough Falcon
1947 CC 16' Special Runabout
1947 Chris Craft 22' Sportsman
1948 CC 25' Sportsman Sedan
1959 Feather Craft Islander Express Cruiser
1961 CC 21' Continental
1965 Glastron Futura 500 V -164
1965 CC Sea Skiff 24'

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Brian Robinson
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Post by Brian Robinson » Mon Feb 18, 2013 11:16 am

Cage rollers are especially important on trailers with a lot of rear overhang, like a 25' Sportsman.

Another important thing to consider is how the trailer is sprung. I see many that are set up for a heavier boat than necessary which results in a stiff, bumpier ride than necessary. Not good for a wood boat. Most these boats are lighter than you think. The weight numbers in the Essential Guide are good reference, I usually add a couple hundred pounds to account for gas, oil and extra equipment.
-Brian
1923 Hackercraft 23' Dolphin #03
1938 Gar Wood 22' Streamliner #6256 Empress
1952 Chris~Craft 19' Racing Runabout #363 Thunderstruck
Robinson Restoration, LLC (760) 468-1009

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mfine
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Post by mfine » Mon Feb 18, 2013 3:53 pm

I like to actually weigh the boat after pulling it from the water. I have yet to find one lighter than I expected. I have been surprised by a couple on the high side.

As for rollers, if you don't insist on keeping the prop and rudder under the boat, you wouldn't need the cage at all. The only time the trailer for Squirt hit the pavement was when a wheel hub broke. Speaking of that, did anyone mention not to get a single axel trailer? :-)

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Don Vogt
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Post by Don Vogt » Mon Feb 18, 2013 4:22 pm

Matt, I have a single axle Ryan trailer and have hauled it around the west coast , including up and down mountain passes , without any problems. So I don't think it is necessarily required to have two axles in all circumstances. Obviously size and weight are two main factors to consider, among other things. No doubt a custom trailer tailored for a specific boat is the best approach. I agree a prop guard with rollers is a critical item to have.

Another thing no one mentioned yet is to have it color coordinated with the boat. Makes for a sharper package.
1938 Chris Craft 17' Deluxe Runabout "Jennifer II"

iamallthumbs
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Post by iamallthumbs » Mon Feb 18, 2013 4:24 pm

I had a trailer built last year for my 47' Runabout and insisted that he build it so the boat was as low as practical because of low water levels in Wisconsin. He put the axle above the frame which put the prop guard real close to the ground. I would have had to buy a new hitch to get the ball lower. Because of my concern with bottoming out I had him switch the axle to under the frame.

Question, can anyone give me a practical distance to have the prop guard set, yet minimize the likelihood of scrapes, or should I consider rollers as suggested?
Mike D.

1947 CC Deluxe Runabout R-17-413 BOOMER (user boat)
1947 CC Deluxe Runabout R-17-872 ZOOM-ZOOM (project boat)
1965 25' Folkboat SALTY DOG (lapstrake sailboat)
Barn with room for more boats!

iamallthumbs
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Post by iamallthumbs » Mon Feb 18, 2013 4:41 pm

One more thing, the four bunks on my trailer for the '47 Runabout extend 6 inches beyond the transom and I was thinking about putting a wedge of plastic on each end to help settle the boat forward on the trailer. I do the parking lot break adjustment but would rather not. I am also thinking about replacing the wedges with blocks while hauling as an alternative to strapping down the strut.
Thoughts?
Mike D.

1947 CC Deluxe Runabout R-17-413 BOOMER (user boat)
1947 CC Deluxe Runabout R-17-872 ZOOM-ZOOM (project boat)
1965 25' Folkboat SALTY DOG (lapstrake sailboat)
Barn with room for more boats!

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mfine
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Post by mfine » Mon Feb 18, 2013 4:47 pm

The minimum height depends on the distance to the axel and the angle in the road. In practice, unless it is a short boat and sits high like mine (jet drive CC and tunnel drive PY have nothing hanging below the hull), you will eventually find a place where it will hit. Murphey would suggest you will find that place when the trailer is brand new or has just been painted. Just get the rollers and be safe.

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Doug P
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Post by Doug P » Mon Feb 18, 2013 6:56 pm

And also, tie downs, hitch weight...safety chains

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ice nine
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Post by ice nine » Wed Feb 27, 2013 6:15 pm

I would offer this advice. If your boat is under 20ft. you should NOT get a tandem trailer. The maximum load capacity for a single axle trailer is well above the loaded weight of a small runabout. It is critical that the weight of the boat "use" the springs and let the springs cushion the ride. If you add another axle you will not allow the springs to do their job, and the ride will shake your boat to pieces. This may not be as critical in a fiberglass boat, but I sure don't want my wooden boat to get beat up going down the highway.

The benefits of an additional axle do not outweigh the benefits of a single axle. Manueverability is superior with a single axle especially when you are pushing it around your garage. Half as many tires to buy. And your boat will float down the highway letting the springs do their job, and not pound with the tandem. If you are worried about getting a flat, buy a spare tire. And a single axle trailer is less expensive to acquire.

All of the other gadgets I would agree with. The more the better. When it comes to axles, less is better.

David

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Doug P
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Post by Doug P » Wed Feb 27, 2013 7:06 pm

David, some of the points you made are valid. However a blowout on a single axle trailer at 60 mph will be more calamitous than on a tandem trailer, plus, what is seldom mentioned....wheel bearings. When one goes on a single axle trailer.......you cannot take off the wheel (which may be overheated) and slowly drive to safety.

A single axle trailer neither tracks nor brakes as straight as a tandem trailer.

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mfine
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Post by mfine » Wed Feb 27, 2013 7:10 pm

First, I am guessing you never had a wheel hub fail on you at 10:00 on a Sunday night in the middle of Amish country (no cell service or even home phones!). At that point you would put up with the extra cost and harder maneuvering and a whole lot of other things for a limp to civilization capability.

Axels and suspensions come with different weight ratings. A tandem could have two 2000 lb axels or two 3500 lb axels and on up. Get two of the correct size and you are fine.

Also, I have a 16' boat on a single axel (for now) and the boat plus fuel, bilge water, gear, and the trailer weight, puts me near the max for a single 3500 lb axel. It is amazing how much a 2000 lb boat can really weigh when you put it on scales in the "just pulled out" condition. If it was an 18-20' boat, I would probably go over on a heavy day.

My boats only get trailered 100 miles a year in just a couple trips, so I have not made trailer replacement for the Squirt a high priority, but it is definitely on the list and the next trailer will be dual axel for sure.

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Post by Peter M Jardine » Wed Feb 27, 2013 7:30 pm

Great thread guys, I have picked up quite a few very good tips for my trailer build. Thanks!

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