I believe the number is on the hull card, as well, if memory serves me correctly.

How are you posting pictures? many of us are having no luck in that regard. they look great btw. thks.

what are the extra holes on the rear deck for?

North woody, the battery box measures about 8 7/8 x 12, and 5 and 1/2 deep. wood is 3/4. the bottom board covers the whole box. the sides run the full length and the narrow ends nest inside the sides. in the middle of the sides there should be about a 1 and 1/2 inch folded over strip of upholstery t...

Hi it looks like mine is 1645. a bit hard to read. I got mine from classic boat connection. you can call them and they will know which one has the 45 degree to port layout. also when i had mine restored, we had to get a new exhaust nut. unfortunately only the post war ones were available. the origin...

If you dont get an answer sooner, i will be pulling my boat out of the lake in aug. to take to a show and can give you the info then. all my gear is original. I will check the exhaust number shortly and pass that on to you.

lifting rings are threaded onto the rods. should just unwind.

I believe they had them then and i can get you the dimensions of my '38, which are the originals. However, i think if you search the archives you can find factory drawings for them? dont think anyone is making them commercially but they are simple in construction as the drawing shows, iirc. there a ...

self bailers can be dangerous. I had mine reinstalled for the look ( I tried to include a photo but the system still isnt working to upload pictures). it was made inoperable. Too many horror stories of boats sinking via the bailer. looked it over this morning but couldnt find the hole. perhaps it wa...

works ok for me.

if i recall correctly, cc switched over from slotted screws to the reed&prince brand of frearson screws sometime around 1940-41. your boat may have been built around that time. perhaps someone like mike green would know for sure. In any event, if you dont have any original deck hardware screws, the ...

sounds like you may need a whole new bottom including all chines, frames, keel. etc. once the rot starts who knows where the spores are? often fiberglassing is a band aid that only promotes further rot. Should have it inspected by a seriously qualified restorer, alas.

Is the lock a clum switch? I wrote a blog on all this several years ago here on research related. your best bet is probably old car shows as the clum was used in autos of the period, as well. al schinnerer of calif. classic boats makes clum switch reproductions and maybe his key blanks might work? i...

very cool. Lots of enjoyment ahead but from time to time there will be hiccups, too. Yes, getting it started for the first time of the season can be a challenge. after that i do the following that always works. Choke out, no throttle until it fires. then push in choke and give it a bit of gas and it...

thanks much for the photos. please keep them coming. great looking boat! the 2020 acbs international is in coeur d' alene. Why not plan to attend. we have one '36 19' here but they are pretty uncommon out this way.

yes, congratulations on a wonderful acquisition. how about posting some pictures? best wishes.

Can someone help direct him to the casting company in algonac that cc used that still has a number of the old molds? I believe there was an earlier article on it in the brass bell?

Your best chance for capturing some of your labor and other expenses of restoration when it comes time to sell the boat, is when you start with a production boat rather than a home made one.

John, i will send you a private message. a bottom up concours level restoration by a top restorer could easily get into 6 figures. It would be unusual if you could ever recover restoration costs in a subsequent sale. Barrel backs are higher priced in the market than racing runabouts. my suggestion i...

Hi John, actually the plywood sheets are placed on the frames and then the planks are epoxied to the plywood. You can check the acbs and tahoe scorecards to see the actual point deductions if you are shooting for a concours level restoration. I had my decks done that way for exactly that reason and ...

epoxy-ing will definitely avoid the inevitable opening of seams that would otherwise occur in hot dry weather in the summer. Those properly done that way have a thin sheet of plywood underneath the planking. For reasons that escape me, the barrelback has a devoted following and the prices have been ...

craig, thanks for sending me the pictures of your boat. great looking. I tried posting using the woody boater display of the blogs. that didnt work. then i went directly to the club site and was able to supposedly get a picture uploaded onto the reply. however, when i submitted it, the picture did n...

can you email a picture to me and let me work on it. i will send pm.

Unfortunately, that has been a problem here on and off for a while. i am not encountering it anymore, but when i did, i had to keep relogging in, and after several attempts, the attachments would show up. ?

thanks, i am glad this has been helpful. You are asking questions that are getting outside of my limited expertise, so perhaps there are others who can be helpful here. Off the top of my head, i am not sure where exactly the engine number is but i think it was part of the casting. somewhere on the t...

one more point of clarification. the boat serial number had 2 components, the model designation, and then the second part was the particular boat made in that series. for example. the D17 part designated the model ( in this case the 1956-58 17' runabout.)The second part, in your case the 1083, meant...

right. you can also search the archive here in the club website to see what materials might be available that specifically relate to this particular model. the thought also occurs to me that I believe the motor number was on the hull card and stamped on the engine block when made. If that is the sam...

this is an interesting story, Laurits. According to the conrad book (he formerly worked at the mariners' museum where the cc records are kept and has written a fairly definitive account of the various models), Hulls D-17-1001 to D-17-1094 were for the 1956 model year 17' "runabout." It was not chara...

we'll get there!

sorry that didnt work. I am probably the last guy you would want to get computer advice from. But try the box at the bottom that says "attachments." at least for me that goes directly to my picture files. good luck!