113 1940 model 19-foot Customs were produced, all but six had the orange deck seams/orange boot top combo. The other six were special ordered with white. Apparently its feast or famine when these are for sale. But if you find any 1940 model there is a good chance it was orange originally even if it ...

Flip barrel - good term. Thumb screws were postwar. The closest to Flip Barrel available now that I know of are made by Ideal, they call them Snap-Lock. I buy them from Grainger.

This particular model did not have aft deck vents at all until 1959. They should face forward, opposite the forward hull side vents, like the museum photo

Most likely all plastic in 1956. 1955 was the transition year for most CC factories

Got some hull cards from Patti yesterday. Good to have them back on line.

Kerry,

I don't think they exist. Stainless steel from McMaster-Carr is all I know of

The correct Riviera/Racing Runabout red Tolex is available from Woodies Restorations in Kentucky.

Boat life makes Life Caulk which comes in a mahogany color which is a much better color than 3M5200's "mahogany" color. I rarely use it but for removable stuff it works well and very closely matches red stained mahogany.

John,

I would use mahogany color Life Caulk or nothing at all.

It will be fine, anything rougher than 320 will show through a final coat anyway.

Transom is Cordova on that model

Yes, originally was aluminum leaf though, not a decal. A stencil can be made from these if you choose the original method.

Scale so Chris-Craft script is 21" long overall.

Drill a hole in the side of the cap (valley of one of the scallops) and problem solved. Your cap may have come from a newer boat, or was filled by a chromer over the years. Double check that it vents when screwed down by sticking a wire in it.

Doug, I wouldn't. Just make sure you have a 1/16" breather hole in your gas cap.

Jim Staib www.finewoodboats.com

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Later in the 30s they went to nickel escutcheon pins when no chrome frame on utilities and such.

Top one Steve, Wide Ribbed Rubber. Awesome stuff.

White pyramid was 1941-42 19'/23'/27' only.

...and speaking of white lines, keep in mind that model had an unusual 5/8" white waterline.

Factory was somewhere between 1/16" and 3/32". I say no wider than 3/32" but it really depends on what you are working with if your seams are old. If putting new seams in new wood I use a .065" kerf blade on my table saw and use a #57 (1/16") Beugler striping wheel (I have a set of custom convex whe...

Pretty much everything you can think of has been tried on these boats in the past 80+ years of restoring them. Motor oil poured in the bilge to "preserve" the wood. Original bottoms skim coated in 5200 for a "5200 bottom". A friend in Minnesota removed a bottom on a 26' Hacker where a blue tarp was ...

The thread varies depending on who made the shaft. Some fine, some course, some odd. Better to check with a thread gauge.

Spot on, Greg. I recently pressed an original bronze bearing out of a lightly used '57 Capri. Pretty rare to see those anymore.

Yes, it is a good match for prewar. Just shake the cans well with a sawzall

It's true. And I can tell you that the mineral content of Lake Tahoe does not support its function

In most models such as yours prewar, the stern lite was grounded to one of the strut bolts, not the engine block. This can be problematic however depending on how your bolts are bedded in the strut, and even then it is still not a great ground. Postwar they wised up and went to the aft of the engine...

Hire a pinstriper for a couple hours.

Troy, yes that has been formulated, but you will have to get hold of Mike. I was just thinking about Vermilion looking at the original cabinetry under the dash of this '58 21' Continental in the shop. A weird color - similar to regular 'red mahogany' yet somehow pinker/orange-er. BTW- got the engine...

Trust me, it's the same. Dave was funny about the formulas. He didn't mix them, Wood Kote did down the street. Call Mike Mayer, he is carrying the stain now.