Brad Penn 30 weight running oil. Has the highest ZDDP level. In regards to freeze protection, drain the engine as per the manual and re-install the plugs. Dump 4 gallons of RV antifreeze (-50F) into a pail and run a hose from the water pump into the pail and pump the pail dry.
Can't miss with this.

The oil pressure was 60 lbs which is ok at cold start up but I was told when the engine started to stall out it was still 60 lbs. I believe that you are correct in saying that the tolerances were too close. I am going to suggest the builder replace/rebuild the oil pump. Have you guys ever seen these...

Just an update. The motor was torn down by the rebuilder. What was found was "scuffing on each piston" and bearing failure. The crank is ok. I have no idea what happened. Whether it was bad work by the rebuilder ( he has a very good reputation for rebuilding old motors) or the owner did something ( ...

Is it a Sherwood or a Jabsco?

I tried my best to convince him it could be a simple issue but he had someone "check everything" and they could not get it to run right and his conclusion was that it is an internal problem.
We shall see.

Thanks for all the good input but it doesn't matter at this point, the engine was pulled and sent back to the rebuilder this morning. The owner was convinced that all avenues were exhausted and it can only be an internal problem. If you all like, I can let you know if/what is found once it is torn d...

2000-2200 rpms is the best it can do before it starts to die. At 1000 plus rpms, oil pressure is excessively high, over 60 lbs I am told. Engine temp is unknown and I do not believe the oil pump was rebuilt. The wiring harness was bypassed and the coil was powered directly from the battery. Nothing ...

What would cause a fresh rebuilt KLC to consistently quit after reaching 2200 rpms? Fuel delivery and ignition has been ruled out. Boat will reach this point and then falter and die off after about a minute and a half of struggling. Owner claims a "burnt oil and some engine noise" (knock?) before it...

What size is the boat?

The valves were replaced when I rebuilt the pump last month. They were not in a cage and patience had to be taken in installing the check valves and springs. Also, you are correct. Perhaps I misspoke when I said "pumping like crazy". At an idle at the dock, I would see an influx of fuel (movement) i...

Hi all, I rebuilt the fuel pump (AC) on my KLC after engine rebuild and in the initial start up process, it would not pump. I took it off and after :shaking it up" a bit it started working. I know this because while moving the primer bail and working the lever that runs off of the cam shaft, I could...

Thanks for all of the input. I put 3 hours on it this weekend and changed it out at almost 8 hours. Good to go.

The builder said "4 or 5 hours". The rep from Brad Penn said that recommended change for an automobile engine is 150 miles. Not sure how to quantify that for a boat engine that works much harder than an auto. I'm just going to run it a few more hours then change it.

Hi all,
Just wondering what the rule of thumb is regarding how long (how many hours) should a new rebuild run before the first oil change? I have about 5 hours on a new KLC with Brad-Penn 30w break-in oil and will change it to 30 w running oil. Just not sure at what point to do that.
Thoughts?

That is pretty much what I have been doing, just trying to confirm. Thanks

In regards to oil capacity, the manual says something to the effect of between the high and low mark while running at approx. 2000 rpms, certain angle etc. How much should be added with an empty crankcase and transmission. I typically dump 5 quarts in and have never had an issue.

Thoughts?

That sounds good. I will give it a try.
Thanks

Hi all,
I know I read on a thread here that RTV was used for this problem. My question is where was the RTV applied? On the outside underneath the flange bottom? It's been packed and tightened properly and still drips. It has since I have owned this boat.

Thanks in advance,
Mark

Good to know. Thanks

This is a great and interesting thread. I bought my Continental in 2002, brought it home and the first thing I did (after starting the engine) was totally dismantle it and took it to a local boat shop (Forestport Boat Co.) and had a 5200 bottom installed. The original bottom looked okay but my knowl...

Summit Racing also has it. 7.49 per quart,

I am running a rebuilt KLC. I believe the 7139 is hi-performance designed for older engines. The rep said that the 7139 is superior for flat cam tappet engines and it contains 1500 ppm of the anti wear additives. He also said that the oil should be changed prior to lay up in the fall rather than let...

After some digging and advice from people on here, I have decided to use the Brad Penn 7120(1000 ppm of wear additive) 30 weight break in oil for 10 hours or so. Then use the 7139- 30 weight for the running oil. The company tech rep Ken really clarified the whole issue for me. Thanks for all the goo...

I am leaning toward the Rotella T1 diesel.

In regards to the Shell Rotella products, I just spoke with Shell's tech support and explained what application I had and suggested Rotella 15w-40 as this product has a gasoline designation as well as diesel application. It's 40 weight at higher temps and the anti wear additive content is 1200 ppm v...

Has the timing been set?