These kits usually have some extra parts in them for all the versions of that model pump. The pin is held in by the casting and the plug on the end.

Don't worry about the clip. Just throw it in that tool box door that has all that stuff that might be useful one day.

It will work fine with the new pieces you have. You have to tap them in. That usually compress the shank some which is why you don't reuse them.

The shorter the length the worse it rides in choppy water.

The 19' racing runabout can be a rough ride in choppy water. They were built with a fairly flat bottom. Great for speed. Not so much for riding comfort if its a busy day on the lake.

Who did you get the kit from?

It should have come with some new pins. But they don't look like the original parts but work just fine.

Look at minute 11:58. Thats what the new pins look like.

Your new kit should have come with new pins, springs and a rubber disc.

Simichrome

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YUQ4E/re ... =UTF8&th=1

The price's have gone through the roof since it change hands. So you might want to lie down before you hear them.

Any pattern you get will have to be modified to fit the curve of your deck and the angle that your outside windshield brackets sit when screwed gown. Best thing to do is get some copies of the pictures of your boat model and some quarter inch plywood and make them. Also get some extra windshield mou...

The U-18's used both the B and C profile rub rail.

As I'm sorting out my new boat, I did a dry compression check across all cylinders and sure enough, number 5 is sitting at 100 pounds with all the rest at 140, 150 and numbers 3 & 8 at 160..! So, I shoot some 30 weight oil into all the cylinder (three squirts each from and oil can then turn the mot...

What Trick414 did. Is really your only option at the present. The company that was rebuilding the gear pumps has closed and no one is doing them right now. I do wish someone would. The reason yours is leaking is the lip seal assembly has gone bad. Which is what the weep hole is for. If the bearing o...

It could be. The F series had a special upper tube that went between the manifold and the engine.

Post some pictures of it and the engine were the dipstick goes.

You will need an original nut. Everything Chris Craft used was odd size and threads compared to anything available today. Once you have an extra nut. Any 1/4 compression ferrule and some 1/4 inch tubing will work. On the other end get the brass fittings from the hardware store that will let you adap...

Its not a difficult swap. But its not a simple in and out either. There are some modifications that have to be done. I've done at least 20 of these conversions. Off the top of my head. It needs to be a marine engine. Not a car crate motor. You have to drill the nose of the crank for the oil passage ...

No I'm not sure. I haven't contacted the Mariners Museum since they opened back up to get the hull card. It is hull number V-18-815 though according to the paperwork I got. Which the V seemed odd to me, but I guess I need to get in touch with the museum V means its a Caviler. They were Chris Crafts...

Are you looking to varnish it or cover it in upholstery?

Hi Jim, The stampings on the block are the Hercules stamping which says its a long stroke marine engine. Flywheel is correct and the intake has to be correct since it has the KLC carb on it. I feel that it is a KLC. No real way to be positive until the boat is driven. Rebuild the carb and that shoul...

Since it will start on ether and you confirmed there is fuel in the float bowl. The carb is more then likely stopped up with old fuel and probably rust. Give it a go with trying to start it with the choke closed as the choke creates more suction in the carb so it pulls more fuel to go to the cylinde...

To read spark plugs correctly you have to shut the engine down at speed not idle.

You have to set the timing running down the lake wide open. Advance the distributor until you hear the engine start pinging. Then back off until it goes away. Also will your running wide open adjust the high speed valve on the carb. If its running lean that can cause it to run hot. It also melts pis...

That'll do it.

To have zero compression on one cylinder you have to have a big hole or gap somewhere. You ned to spin the engine over and make sure the valves are opening and closing and when they close they are fully seated. The ding you have will not give you complete compression lose. I had one come it one time...

100LL will work fine. Just keep an extra set of plugs with you as the lead can clog them up. Its a higher amount of leaded in it then the old car leaded gas.

Max RPM is 3600 for the KLC. But it varies due to weight load. You should at least get 3000 to 3200.

One on each side of the block above oil pan about middle on engine. One at the back of each exhaust manifold One underneath each exhaust riser One on the bottom of the copper pipe from the water pump to trans oil cooler One underneath the water pump One underneath the water circulating pump One at t...

Just put varnish on it.

Since the gear pump will not prime by itself. Its worn out. Also since it is leaking past the shaft seal it worn out. The pump more then likely has an open shaft bearing bearing. Which will allow the water leaking past the shaft seal. As the leak gets worse all the water will not be able to leak out...

Is the water pump a gear pump or a rubber impeller pump?

Might be best to post a picture of the pump.

Pertronix used to have great coils. But about 5 to 6 years ago they moved production to China and they became pure junk. I went back to using NAPA coils. You want an IC14 coil from NAPA. If you have a external resistor get rid of it. All they do is cause problems on boats. The NAPA coil doesn't need...

The IC 14 is an internally resister coil.

So no external resister needed.

You want NAPA number IC14

Since you still have points. Go to NAPA and get a 12 volt internal resister coil. Buy the top of the line.

All the other auto parts stores sell coils that are junk.