As I'm sorting out my new boat, I did a dry compression check across all cylinders and sure enough, number 5 is sitting at 100 pounds with all the rest at 140, 150 and numbers 3 & 8 at 160..! So, I shoot some 30 weight oil into all the cylinder (three squirts each from and oil can then turn the mot...

What Trick414 did. Is really your only option at the present. The company that was rebuilding the gear pumps has closed and no one is doing them right now. I do wish someone would. The reason yours is leaking is the lip seal assembly has gone bad. Which is what the weep hole is for. If the bearing o...

It could be. The F series had a special upper tube that went between the manifold and the engine.

Post some pictures of it and the engine were the dipstick goes.

You will need an original nut. Everything Chris Craft used was odd size and threads compared to anything available today. Once you have an extra nut. Any 1/4 compression ferrule and some 1/4 inch tubing will work. On the other end get the brass fittings from the hardware store that will let you adap...

Its not a difficult swap. But its not a simple in and out either. There are some modifications that have to be done. I've done at least 20 of these conversions. Off the top of my head. It needs to be a marine engine. Not a car crate motor. You have to drill the nose of the crank for the oil passage ...

No I'm not sure. I haven't contacted the Mariners Museum since they opened back up to get the hull card. It is hull number V-18-815 though according to the paperwork I got. Which the V seemed odd to me, but I guess I need to get in touch with the museum V means its a Caviler. They were Chris Crafts...

Are you looking to varnish it or cover it in upholstery?

Hi Jim, The stampings on the block are the Hercules stamping which says its a long stroke marine engine. Flywheel is correct and the intake has to be correct since it has the KLC carb on it. I feel that it is a KLC. No real way to be positive until the boat is driven. Rebuild the carb and that shoul...

Since it will start on ether and you confirmed there is fuel in the float bowl. The carb is more then likely stopped up with old fuel and probably rust. Give it a go with trying to start it with the choke closed as the choke creates more suction in the carb so it pulls more fuel to go to the cylinde...

To read spark plugs correctly you have to shut the engine down at speed not idle.

You have to set the timing running down the lake wide open. Advance the distributor until you hear the engine start pinging. Then back off until it goes away. Also will your running wide open adjust the high speed valve on the carb. If its running lean that can cause it to run hot. It also melts pis...

That'll do it.

To have zero compression on one cylinder you have to have a big hole or gap somewhere. You ned to spin the engine over and make sure the valves are opening and closing and when they close they are fully seated. The ding you have will not give you complete compression lose. I had one come it one time...

100LL will work fine. Just keep an extra set of plugs with you as the lead can clog them up. Its a higher amount of leaded in it then the old car leaded gas.

Max RPM is 3600 for the KLC. But it varies due to weight load. You should at least get 3000 to 3200.

One on each side of the block above oil pan about middle on engine. One at the back of each exhaust manifold One underneath each exhaust riser One on the bottom of the copper pipe from the water pump to trans oil cooler One underneath the water pump One underneath the water circulating pump One at t...

Just put varnish on it.

Since the gear pump will not prime by itself. Its worn out. Also since it is leaking past the shaft seal it worn out. The pump more then likely has an open shaft bearing bearing. Which will allow the water leaking past the shaft seal. As the leak gets worse all the water will not be able to leak out...

Is the water pump a gear pump or a rubber impeller pump?

Might be best to post a picture of the pump.

Pertronix used to have great coils. But about 5 to 6 years ago they moved production to China and they became pure junk. I went back to using NAPA coils. You want an IC14 coil from NAPA. If you have a external resistor get rid of it. All they do is cause problems on boats. The NAPA coil doesn't need...

The IC 14 is an internally resister coil.

So no external resister needed.

You want NAPA number IC14

Since you still have points. Go to NAPA and get a 12 volt internal resister coil. Buy the top of the line.

All the other auto parts stores sell coils that are junk.

Do you have a Pertronix ignition in your distributor?

For the F series?

Mcmaster Carr has DOT compression fittings (not yor-lok fittings) and the nuts look just like the original compression nuts.

I'm rebuilding a 430 right now. They are a very expensive motor to rebuild. Most of the internal parts are no longer available so you have to track down new old stock parts. Also the combustion chamber is in the block so you have to find a machine shop that has the jigs to bore the cylinders. Think ...

You can tap the inside hole of the bailer with a 1/2 inch pipe tap. Then install a brass pipe plug with JB Weld on the threads. Then put the hose and bailer on. Done this way it will look completely original. It should have a hole at the very top of the loop. smaller then a 1/16 inch. If the hole is...

There is a factory memo that has the exact date the plates change over to R&P screws. I know the year was 40 or 41. I think Don Danneberg has a copy of it from the Mariners Museum.

The original hole will do fine. Just run the same size drill bit through the hole to make sure its completely clear.

If the fuel bowl gasket is over a year old. They usually won't reseal after the bowl has been removed. The cork ones get hard. Rubber ones leak. I think its the additives they put in todays fuel. Which are the same whether it has ethanol in it or is ethanol free. You can get a sheet of cork gasket m...