It will run all day on a fully charged battery as long as you don't turn it off. It's the starting and other accessories that really suck the juice.

Yup, have them in stock.

No one makes a pump for the K series engines anymore. When they did both pumps for the K and M series engines took the same impeller. My logic says they would pump similar amounts of water. If water ends up in the crankcase there is probably another issue. We sell lots of the 5850 pumps that get put...

The quick way to test the fuel pump is remove the line from the tank. Put your thumb over the fitting on the pump. Actuate the lever on the pump and it should suck you thumb in.
Proper way is to insert a vacuum gauge in the pump.

Here it is

It's called a Cut-Out. Post a photo of it. Some are known to have a short life.

12 1/2X13 propeller. You should get way more RPM with either propeller you have. I'd start with synchronizing them by hand and make sure all carbs Fully close and fully open evenly. (not running) then adjust the idle mixtures then idle speed. Finally take it out with two people and adjust the high s...

Peter,
You can have them shipped here and I can ship them with the rest of your order. Will get you a photo Monday of what I have gathered.
JIM

Contact Jim at Fine Wood Boats, inc in Three Lakes 815-344-9663 Unless you know the NAPA Echlin part numbers specifically it's a real struggle getting a car parts store to help, which I learned early on. Easier to talk to someone who knows what your looking for and may even have NOS See www.finewoo...

Congratulations on your stewardship. May you treat each other well

Paul,
See if they ever found a hull number. This was sent to me last month.

Post photos. We love photos

Pretty sure they sold out quick. I went to Detroit and visited the company that made them originally. They seemed interested while I was there but would not take my calls once I left. I let it lie.

The engine stringers are 22 1/2" apart. You want a lot under them. Some under the chine too.

This is one way https://www.jbtools.com/channellock-463 ... -v-jaw-16/
A strap or chain wrench is another.

Worked for me

About 2300 on the barrel and 3000 on the Sportsman but go heavier for when the next boat follows you home

Patent applied for.

I've had Hagerty for about 30 years. One issue with a submerged something and they took care of it with no issues. You get to pick the delectable and value. Besides they support the hobby

What kind of bottom paint are you using? If it is soft Anti-Fouling that is part of the problem. The other issue would be how you load it. You want the boat all the way forward and touching the bow stop while floating. If you are dragging it on the bunks back the trailer in a bit deeper.

I think what you mean is called "Transom Bands" or "Quarter Brass"
Check raw stock here https://www.mcmaster.com/metals/stainle ... ess-steel/

The top piece is a throttle brake. It holds pressure on the throttle linkage so it maintains same speed. there is supposed to be a screw through it. Probably in the bilge.

NORTHJOE wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 26, 2020 9:39 am

So the rubber tube should be metal?

Could this lend to the possibility of the bottom being original?

It should be replaced if there are any signs of cracks but totally original.

Actually the A is a newer and better engine. If the K will fit I would use that.

Remove the cap and rotor. Turn the ignition on. Use the point on a test light to open the points arm. Light should be off with points closed and on with points open.

I'd go with "Marine grade" Only want to do it once

Actually they started with the "C" and moved to the "B" and ended with the "A". Have never figured out the difference between the A & B except there were 4 series of B engines. A is similar to the last series.

Won't work. Front mount covers the teeth.

Ditto what Greg said. Also has nicer hardware and leather interior compared to the Riv.

Here are the options. My guess would be "B" style