The fuel may be getting past the seal at the top of the accelerator pump (brass radius / cast Iron C'bore).
My 2 cents.

http://www.carburetor-blog.com/manuals/ ... manual.pdf
Not sure if this is what you need.
Tom

You could remove the dis. cap, then rotate the rotor see if it moves and if it "springs back", That will tell you if the dis. is advancing.
My two cents.

Fuel pump leaking into the block thinning out the oil? Friend had the same issue.
What weight oil are you using?

6 volt horn relay
https://www.amazon.com/MACs-Auto-Parts- ... B0716SZXZD

Thanks Jim, I ordered a box!!
Tom

I'm 1/2 done with my wiring and ran out of these staples.
Does anyone have some like the photos they would be willing to sell me?
Let me know.
Thanks
Tom

Thinking about replacing my Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3 with locking rear differential 2 wheel drive pick up. For the last 10 years I have launched /towed my 21' glass inboard (4000 lbs) with no problems. Hoping to finish my 1928 24' flat deck triple (5000 lbs) in the next few years. The question is do...

Thank you both for your reply. I will be using a relay.
Mike, I attached a scan to my original post from CC. I should have stated that CC used a relay in 1935 (not started to use).
Tom

Working on the electrical system on my 1928 CC 24' runabout. My boat did not come with a horn relay. I'm very concerned about safety. The original horn draws 25 ish amps. If I add the relay would it come under the safety issue in judging? Also I have fond an vintage NOS all black battery disconnect....

Please post a photo of the engine to see if it is a Chrysler Marine Engine?
If it is the are two colors early green/grey later different green /gray.
photo is 1928

Did you try
Northeast Machine & Motor Supply in Tonawanda NY ?

R&J Metal finishing Depew NY for anodizing.
Tom

When I removed my originals there was plating, most likely nickel like the rest of the hardware. Your hardware was probably chrome, along with the screws.
Tom

If my memory is correct, my 1928 has #6 oval head slot screws. yours may be chrome plated.
My 2 cents.
Tom

Thank You!

Mike,
No plating at all?? Nickel or Chrome?
Tom

He advertises on the Chris Craft Club site. Talks about spring units. I have not used his service.

www.JacksUpholstery.com Email: [email protected] Phone: (503) 267 8824

[attachment=0]Badge-header1.jpg[/attachment]

Jim,
Thank you very much for your help!!
Tom

I'm looking for some advise on removing pump motor from my Lovett 900 bilge pump (6v). The pulley for the impeller is in the way. This one seams to be the older style, I have two one new one old. Also if any one has determined the "O" ring numbers let me know. Thanks Tom

http://www.network54.com/Forum/424840/m ... ARTS++LIST

Give this a try.

I have 50 photos of an original 1965 16' VUD-16-0098C. Send me a PM if you would like me to send them to you. I have a 1966 18' Cavalier w / 327F waiting for restoration.

Aluminum pistons expanded due to the heat, deposited alum vertical "stripes" on the cylinder walls. Piston rings not sealing any more. My 2 cents.

Take a look at the Black ring (electrical Tape) on my PVC guide poles. If you launch and retrieve at the same ramp you can mark how far you need to back the trailer in the water. Works great.

There is a lot on this site about engine oil, do a search.
I use Valvoline VR-1 Racing Oil 30 wt. lots of good stuff in it for the old engines.

Engine hoist / cherry picker over the transom.

If it is a single axle trailer you should be ok with the correct size. If it is a dual axle trailer you will have issues with them coming off. The rims flex badly when backing / maneuvering and they come off. I got tired of picking mine up all the time. My 2 Cents.
Tom

Thank you for your help Mr. Jim g.
Ordering a rebuild kit.
Tom