My KLC carb (11849) has no high speed jet on the bottom. Just a large brass nut or plug. I haven't taken it out. Am I in trouble? I am having trouble getting it to run after a total engine rebuild including carb over haul.There are possibly other issues.

I checked compression this morning. All are 115-125. There was gas in the horn so I drained it. Looks rusty. Tried starting with choke full on with no ether and engine fired as long as the starter was turning it but quit immediately when I released the starter button. The horn again had a lot of gas...

Thanks for the quick reply. I looked at the rebuild receipt and the work was done in July 2015 so the engine has just been sitting since then. It was never installed in the boat and is on a stand in my shop.The previous owner never saw it run but assured me the shop had run it. It is 12 volts and cr...

I took over a 1956 Capri project from a man who lost interest. The engine ( KL-QXLDML stamped on the block) was rebuilt and according to the receipts so was the carburetor. I am trying to start it but it will only fire if I give it a little spray ether and then it quits. I t seems clear that it is n...

I would be very careful about using 5200 for those side seams. It expands when it dries and will end up proud of the hull and be difficult to smooth out. Sikaflex or Boatlife might be a better choice.

I spoke with Al yesterday and he is going to make the parts for me. Not cheap but he does great work. And he is actually only 94 years young!!

I am part way through a restoration on a 1956 19' Capri. I was fitting the windshield and realized that I am missing the top chrome trim on both sides. This runs from the center support across the curved plexiglas to the corner fitting. Each piece would be about 38" long. Can anyone help me out? 201...

Interesting. This is the strut that was on the boat when I bought it 30 years ago and it had the original Chrysler engine. Now it has the 350 and seems to be just fine. Except for that broken shaft thing at Tavares this year. That’s all I’ve got.

At no little risk to my life and limb, I braved entered my lake and was immediately beset by small fish, probably piranha. I was able to read the casting number on the strut of Moxie. 6005WF. I will try to post a photo.

https://www.gordonelectricsupply.com/in ... gJ2DfD_BwE

I found these but they are copper. May not be what you need.

I like the water troughs idea and maybe I would have some sort of tent over the boat reaching to the floor. If it still tried to dry out add a humidifier.

Thanks Mike! That Is exactly what I need.

I took over a project that a previous owner had abandoned. It is a 1956 19' Capri. The transom planks were missing so I have no pattern planks. That is not a problem except that I need to locate the exhaust hole. I have replaced the planks and I can locate the spray rail. The exhaust flange has the ...

Thanks everyone. I had tried the soap and heat but the hose is just too heavy. It is like exhaust hose. I have ordered the Dayco hose. It looks a little more flexible.

I need to replace the hose on my 19' Capri shaft log. I thought it was 1.5" so I bought a section that size. It turns out that the metal parts are actually 1.6" and I cannot squeeze them into the hose. Anyone know of a supplier or have any other suggestions?

I have four 6" inch swivel casters that you can have for shipping expenses. The only downside is that none of the wheels has a brake so if you lean aggressively on the boat the cradle might move. I am sure you could rig up some tiny wheel chocks. These are not steel wheels but are some sort of hard ...

One method I have had some success with is very old school for boats in the water. Place a handful of fine sawdust in the area of the leak on the outside. The theory is that incoming water will bring in the sawdust and clog up the leak. This actually works!

I hope that is a typo and you meant 2"x8" instead of feet. If it is feet that would be about 1/4 of the side. Even if it is inches that is a tough repair. You could cut out a nice rectangle to remove the rot plus a little more and then cut a "dutchman" out of a piece of mahogany to fill the hole. Th...

I usually paint the actual bottom while the boat is upside down and then roll the boat. I don't bother painting the chine plank until after the sides are stained and varnished. That way you do not have to worry about accidental drips on the paint.

Outer planks would have been Phillipine mahogany. Sometimes it is hard to find. I don't see why the easier to find African would not work on a bottom repair that is going to be painted.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=unqX1IyNaSU

This is a video from Antique Boat Center. They sell the superglue and accelerant on their website in the classified section under materials.

You can fix this yourself. If there is bare wood in the gouge, apply the correct stain. Just dab it in with a small artist brush and wipe off excess. Let dry. Now apply super glue into the gouge. Try not to get any on the area around the gouge. You might mask off with blue tape. Let superglue dry an...

Very interesting. I can click on Jim Staib's screen shot and it enlarges but when I click on the original 3 boat picture I get nothing.

If I right click on the three boats I get no response. Left click also does nothing. On the side hull shot I get the same rotation as Jim.

If you have Hagerty insurance, the trailer is insured seperately from the boat.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AS ... UTF8&psc=1

I just ordered these. Looks like they will work. Apparently I will have spares!

I just had my lifting ring re-chromed as it was a little beat up from using just the metal hook from the winch strap. Does someone have a source for a short (2') piece of strap or line with an eye on each end that I could put through the ring and then connect to the winch strap? I have looked on lin...

Make that ynotyachts.com

Contact yknotyachts.com They just finished a beauty!

Try Paul Cundiff at Woodies Restoration in Kentucky.