You may want to check your crank case breather tube that comes off of the valve cover plate to the top of the carburetor. It should be right over the carb spark arrestor so when it sucks its taking the crank case fumes and runs them back through the engine. Also to boat should have good ventilation ...

I'm not trying to start something here but I'm noticing a trend that's not good for the hobby. There is a lot of questions that get asked here that do not get the correct answers and it begs the question on where have all of the real experts gone. This site when it started and quite a few years to f...

Neither one is right if you are going for factory correct. It should be a small knob with a knurled ring holding it not a hex bolt holding it in the dash.

Mike Mayer at Lake Oswego Boat Co. has the correct stain you need.

The correct screw for the rub rails on your boat would be #8 X 1 1/4 chrome plated brass reed and prince oval head. If you use #6 you will find they are sunk into the metal to much and a 3/4 will most likely pop out over time up towards the bow where the bend is. Top Notch Fasteners have the correct...

Throttle but its missing the black knob on the end of it.

We can make one and give you a quote. We made a really nice trailer for a 1953 35' Chris Craft a few years back and its super easy to load and launch. Let me know if I can help, Maritime Classics 231-486-6148

The stud through the frame under the forward deck is for the horn to mount to. The 2 metal clips I don't think where original to the boat and neither was the funky copper pipe which looks like it went to the fuel system. The fuel line would have been 1 piece of 3/8 copper line from the tank shut off...

I have never seen anything like that. Not saying it couldn't be from the factory but we have done a lot of bottoms and restorations for almost 30 years and Iv'e never come across one. The open end of the self-bailer should be over the top of it because that's where it would have been from the factor...

I would check it with a multimeter with on each side of the coil. If you have spark there I would pull the number on plug and and attach it to the plug wire, set on the engine block and see if there is spark at the plug.

We do that so if there is any imperfections in the seams it blends into the deck color better. That way when we paint our lines we can make then nice and straight and even, even know the seam may not be.

We clean out the deck grooves with a piece of folded up 80 grit (they get full of varnish in some places) at coat 15. Then we use mahogany colored SikaFlex in the grooves and making sure to give the compound a slight scallop to them. After the SikaFlex is good and dry we then sand the deck with 320 ...

I agree, I have restored a couple of 20' Customs and during testing found they have a very smooth ride. I believe all of them came with the large MB or MBL so they go pretty good but not fast. They had some unique history to them as well, they were the first blonde deck boat made by Chris Craft and ...

I would definitely paint it in red. We paint all the white sided U-22 in red at the shop. Every white sided hull card that I have seen was red paint. I could get a stencil for you from my artist but not sure what he would charge because they are all hand done, but I could ask if you would like.

Jim Thorpe may do it 208-215-5736

They should be 3/8 and are sold by the pound at Jamestown Distributing NCT3/8 is the number. The tack spacing varies a bit from about an inch apart but get closer together around the corners to help hold the hydem down around the bend.

You would never find a wire nut in a boat made at the Chris Craft factory. They even went to lengths of soldering connections in some places to make sure they would last due to the vibrations. It is a very bad idea in my opinion to use wire nuts in a boat, they just don't have there place in a marin...

What size is the boat and can you give us the hull number?

Its most likely from the fuel tank vent. I'm not sure your tank is vented but in 1960 it should be but I would definitely find the source.

Sounds like you need to pull the water pump and rebuild it or at least inspect the impeller and the passage ways. You should also rebuild the fuel pump and make sure your gaskets are properly seated and in place. I would then check the firing order set the engine on #1 top dead center, check the rot...

It sounds like your going to have to strip it to bare wood anyway. I would tarp it or put up a shelter to put it under. You could do shrink wrap with some vents if you can find a guy and the cost would be about $300.

OK so that's super confusing. Standard brand part number CU-14 it says its a 6 volt and that's what I have on the shelf. I even went online and ordered from summit racing and came up with the same thing. But Napa a uses a IC-14 as a 12V So I guess it depends on the brand.

UC-15 is a 12V coil and UC-14 is the 6V coil.

It sounds like you may need to file the screw head a little more to make it slide in and out a bit easier. On the wood end I would fill all of the holes and reassemble the metal sleeve and put the screw back in.

So hopefully I read this right but don't really understand. My question is why would it make a difference? I really don't see how there would be any maintenance difference or advantages in working on the engine no matter which way it is pointing but I have worked on mostly boats my whole life. I kno...

No it should be copper on both sides which is soft and helps seat the gasket. Also there is an up and down side to the gasket so you need to make sure its on right.

I would really look at the old gasket and see if it has any indications of why it happened. Also look at the block and the head to see what the deal is.

Seems to be the head gasket problem.

Like you said brass would have been correct. What we have to do is alter the screw a bit to fit sometimes. First, orientation is important so when your pole slides in and turns your ensign is pointing aft. The other thing you may have to do is file the top of the screw a bit so it fits in the bottom...

OK after reading your post again use the white SikaFlex for the seams if your going to paint it white. We use mahogany color on deck seams where the boat is stained mahogany it helps hide and inconsistencies that the seams may have.