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Clum Switch

Your old Chris-Craft electrical system can be a challenge. If it runs on "juice" pose your questions and offer your advice here.

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Tom Gruenauer
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Clum Switch

Post by Tom Gruenauer » Wed Mar 14, 2012 7:29 pm

Did the Clum switch use the “Dim” setting to dim the lights like the cars of the same era? My understanding of the auto “dim” was a small coil of resistor wire (on the back of the switch) to dim the lights or was the “Dim” used as an anchor light (stern light only)? Or not used at all?
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jfrprops
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Post by jfrprops » Wed Mar 14, 2012 8:55 pm

I think "dim" was on there for when and if you made the great mistake of letting a non woodyboater DRIVE...they are all sort of Dim, so maybe they had their own spot on the ignition switch...when you put it on dim maybe it wouldn't start! I wish I had had that switch at times myself!!!! lol....
otherwise clueless,

Guys at Tavares with know!!! a week to go!!

John in Va.
1980 Fairchild Scout 30
19?? custom Argentine Runabout 16'
1954 Whirlwind deluxe dual ckpt 16'
1921 Old Town Charles River 17' (founding Captain, James River Batteau Festival)

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Don Vogt
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Post by Don Vogt » Thu Mar 15, 2012 6:39 am

I believe it was used simply for having both running lights --bow and stern, on a lower setting.
1938 Chris Craft 17' Deluxe Runabout "Jennifer II"

runabout36
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Clum switch "Dim"

Post by runabout36 » Thu Mar 15, 2012 8:20 am

I believe the "Dim" was from when it was used in an automobile, that's how you would dim your lights. When it is used in a boat "Dim" is for stern pole or "Anchor" light only. The other is for full navigation lights bow and stern including the dash panel. I have the identical clum switch on a 1936 CC.

Tom

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maritimeclassics
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Post by maritimeclassics » Thu Mar 15, 2012 9:51 am

I believe runabout36 is correct,the clum switch used in a Century panel actually said Anchor, Off and On. So I have always wired them were only the aft white light came on in the dim position. You don't have another one of these laying around do you, I am in need.
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Restoration Projects:
1936 25' Gar Wood Custom
1947 Ventnor Hydroplane
1957 17' Deluxe Runabout
1948 25' Chris Craft Sportsman Twin
1959 19' Sliver Arrow Hull #75
1929 26' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
1937 25' Chris Craft Custom Runabout

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Don Vogt
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Post by Don Vogt » Fri Mar 16, 2012 12:50 pm

Talked to a couple of restorers. I stand corrected.. the consensus is that on the pre wars, the dim side was for the instrument panel lights and the other side added the running lights. Maritime, what do you think?

Al schinnerer's reproduction clum is slightly different from the original and requires a somewhat different wiring arrangement, i am told.
Last edited by Don Vogt on Fri Mar 16, 2012 5:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1938 Chris Craft 17' Deluxe Runabout "Jennifer II"

Tom Gruenauer
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Post by Tom Gruenauer » Fri Mar 16, 2012 4:13 pm

Looking at the back of my switch (see photo )it looks like you could wire it ether way....

Runabout36,
Does your boat have the original wiring?
Anyone else have a Clum switch on a original pre war Boat?
Brian R. what do you think?
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Don Vogt
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Post by Don Vogt » Fri Mar 16, 2012 5:49 pm

The clum switch evolved a little prior to its abandonment by cc, at least as to the 17 deluxe around dec. 38. So I am not sure we can generalize? Not sure what the back of the earlier ones looked like.See some clum discussion in "pre war dashboard and gauge panel" under research related.this issue was not really addressed there but there are some pictures.
1938 Chris Craft 17' Deluxe Runabout "Jennifer II"

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Don Vogt
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Post by Don Vogt » Sat Mar 17, 2012 6:30 am

I might also mention that this is consistent with what cc did after they eliminated the clum switch on the 17' model in early 39. they then used separate gauge and running light switches. (see pre -war dash buzz site).
Last edited by Don Vogt on Sat Mar 17, 2012 8:39 am, edited 1 time in total.
1938 Chris Craft 17' Deluxe Runabout "Jennifer II"

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steve bunda
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Clun Dim

Post by steve bunda » Sat Mar 17, 2012 8:28 am

Based on memory the Dim setting is wired to send power to the stern pole light and the dash lights thus, On Is for everything on. I have a unrestored 1936 18 foot runabout in the barn and will check it out to test my theory.

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maritimeclassics
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Post by maritimeclassics » Sat Mar 17, 2012 8:45 am

You know after some thought and asking around again DonJ is right. The dim should be light for the dash panel only. There is no reason for the aft white light to be lite by it self (anchor light)on a runabout. This would only be true in a cruiser back then. This is the way the 1931 20' triple that I restored was and also the way that I am going to wire the 2 28' boats. It makes sense to me.
Family member of Chris Craft founder
Owner of Maritime Classics
http://www.maritimeclassics.com
Ph# 231-486-6148

Restoration Projects:
1936 25' Gar Wood Custom
1947 Ventnor Hydroplane
1957 17' Deluxe Runabout
1948 25' Chris Craft Sportsman Twin
1959 19' Sliver Arrow Hull #75
1929 26' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
1937 25' Chris Craft Custom Runabout

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steve bunda
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clum switch

Post by steve bunda » Sat Mar 17, 2012 5:44 pm

The 18 footer was no help on determining what is on in the DIM position, but I remember why I wired it up so the stern light came on with the dash lights. When floating om Lake Lucerne on hot summer nights with the engine off we needed the light from the stern pole to find another beer and the dash lights for ambience . I call this the northern wisconsin connection. :D

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Don Vogt
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Post by Don Vogt » Sat Mar 17, 2012 5:53 pm

Makes good sense to me!
1938 Chris Craft 17' Deluxe Runabout "Jennifer II"

cenger
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Post by cenger » Thu May 24, 2012 8:28 pm

Could use a little help wiring Clum Switch.
8 Contacts on back of Clum:
DIM – Anchor and Dash Light
HEAD
COIL – From Positive side of Coil
MAGA
GRD
REAR
BAT
HORN
Presuming I have correct that the anchor and dash light go to the DIM, and coil goes to COIL, for a positive ground system, what do I connect the negative side of the Ammeter to on the Clum Switch?
1935 Gar Wood 16-35
1929 Gar Wood 28-30

Tom Gruenauer
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Post by Tom Gruenauer » Fri May 25, 2012 8:18 am

This is what I came up with.

Head = Bow Light
Coil = Coil
Rear = Stern light & Instrument Lights
Bat. = amp gauge + foot started buttom + horn

There is no "negitive" to the Amp gauge. + in + out.

I'm still not sold on the issue of the stern lights and inst. lights on together.

Tom

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steve bunda
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lights

Post by steve bunda » Sat May 26, 2012 8:22 am

I just rewired a 1936 22 foot custom , the dash light were wired with the bow light , rear was stern. I stand corrected :) steve

Tom Gruenauer
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Post by Tom Gruenauer » Wed Oct 31, 2012 7:21 pm

This information is from the Chris Craft Care and Operation manual first edition Copyrighted 1929
Page 10.
"then turn the dash light switch on, and see that your bow and stern lights both work. Observe that by turning the handle of the switch one way both the bow and stern lamps light; while by turning the switch the other way the stern lamp will light only. This is done, so when lying at anchor at night, your battery will not run down. The law requires that only a white light be shown, which is visible from all points of the compass."

This manual covers all 18 models that were produced that year. Only one (model 16)was the 38' cruiser.
The 38' was noted only once as were to place timbers for storage. The rest of the manual is for runabouts.

This is the way I will be wiring my 1928. I will have the dash lights on when the bow and stern light are on.

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Jim Godlewski
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Post by Jim Godlewski » Thu Nov 01, 2012 5:46 am

Interesting post for sure. I did not know such a switch existed. Just goes to show I need an older boat so I can mess with this stuff. Old is good....
Does this switch just operate lights? What is the key lock for?
1956 17 Sportsman CC-17-2310
1930 Model 100 7152
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Tom Gruenauer
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Post by Tom Gruenauer » Thu Nov 01, 2012 6:04 am

Jim,
The key is for ignition, the handle is for lights.

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DennyDowning
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Post by DennyDowning » Sun Feb 17, 2013 10:31 pm

Lets not forget about the horn. I tested all the positions on the back of my CLUM Switch (1929 CADET). It is pretty interesting. The hardest part is that all the wiring has to go back through the Ammeter to properly show the current draw. The switch is quite a hand full of wires when complete. The Horn is always hot. And yes, the DIM position is for the Anchor Light.

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