Where to Disconnect Driveshaft from Engine? (pic attached)

[andyz]

Hi everyone...

Well, I've been working all weekend building gantries and stripping the boat down for a flip. I think I'm at the last piece prior to removing the engine - I need to disconnect the engine from the driveshaft.

Here's a picture of what I'm looking at. Is this where I should do my work? If so, which connection?

This is a K engine in a 1955 17' Sportsman. I see a set screw attached to the drive shaft, so am thinking about loosening that and then loosening the 6 bolts where the flange first meets the block.

Do I need to take the prop and rudder off if I'm just going to sand and recoat the bottom?

Thanks for any guidance - something tells me I'm not going to get this flipped before the sun sets tonight!

[andyz]

I have added another pic.

I have the socket wrench on the flange that I think I need to disconnect. Does this seem right?

As I try to loosen those bolts, the shaft turns with the direction of the wrench, making it impossible to create any leverage to loosen the bolts. I tried bracing the shaft but am not getting very far. Should I try bracing the prop?

Am I even trying for the right thing?

Thanks for any help - much appreciated.

[Brian Robinson]

That's right. Put a 2x4 between the prop and the bottom of the boat to hold it.

when all four bolts are out, jiggle the prop and pull the shaft/coupler back to allow the engine to lift out.

[andyz]

You the man! Thanks Brian.

[Captain Nemo]

Yes, you are on the right track. You can wedge a block of wood between a blade of the prop and the bottom of the boat to break loose the bolts on the flange. That set screw is what holds it to the shaft, it usually sets into a dimple on the shaft. After removing it ,if you are lucky the flange will come right off. If not it might take some coaxing. If you have a prop puller you can remove that and leave the rudder on and slide the shaft past it.
It is important to take the shaft out so you can paint up inside the shaft log.

[Captbob626]

Not a good idea to block prop and bottom you can easily damage or bend a blade. There is a vice grip with a chain looks like bicycle chain. Home depot. Wrap around shaft and then loosen bolts. You may even take several wraps of rope around the shaft and fasten to motor mount to secure shaft. Good luck

[andyz]

Thanks everyone for the guidance. It was a long day... finally got the engine on a dolly a couple minutes ago. I'll try to flip the boat tomorrow.

Here are some pics of the day's adventures. For some reason my computer nuked all the pictures and all I could resurrect were these 'thumbnails', but hopefully you'll get the gist.

I lowered the steering column here:



These gantries took me way too long to make... I suppose 5 hours or so. Hope they hold! I sistered 2 x 10's at the top and they rest on 4x4 posts with a tie-in, along with gussets and braces. I borrowed the design from another user with a blogspot on his barrelback.



Hardware off:



My little man helping out. He was in charge of tool checkout and random bolt loosening. He'll be three in a couple months:



This is 1 ton chain hoist from Harbor Freight. It pulled it up nicely... once I finally got the exhaust hose loosened off the copper pipe. Whoops!



Really tight squeeze here. The hoist is as high as it will go and the trailer as low as it will go. 1/2" to spare:



Boat pushed forward and now lowering the engine. Gantry is holding really well... no flex:



Safe and sound!



Thanks again for all the advice! Hopefully I'll have time to flip it tomorrow so I can start dealing w/ this:



Barrier paint and CPES is on the way, hopefully I'll have it in the water by next weekend. Depending on what we find here, I may just try to float it for the summer and 5200 it over the winter.

[Chad Durren]

Congrats! Looks like a solid rig. You should have no problem with the flip.

Glad the engine cleared.