Cruiser Hull Paint - possible issue?

[BrokenRule2]

I would like to run this by the collective.

I'm going to have our boat repainted and started to remove the paint. Since a razor blade worked so well for varnish removal I gave it a try on the paint. It came off in sheets.




The surface appears to be the previous color that was not prepped well so my plan is to sand this with 120 and prime it.

In some area below the green near the rear where it was exposed to sun the paint was in poor shape four layers cam off. Some area went to primed wood and other left a coat of paint. Only the layers that came off with a bit of effort were removed. No sanding at this time.

Thinking this is a solid base I will sand and prime.

So the questions.

Better to keep up with the razor remove rather than just sand the top layer and paint?

What can I use to fair the hull in the areas where more than one layer of paint was removed - I don't want a wavy hull?
Use layers of primer or surfacing puddy?

Should I give up on the razor method and just take it all down to the same level with a lot of sanding?

as they say, it's all in the prep work.

Thanks in advance!

[BrokenRule2]

This one is about the seams that are grooved.





I was thinking, after searching this site, to use CPES on it, caulk it, prime and then paint.

Any recommendations before I start?

Thanks!

Mike

[Matt Chapter]

Mike-
I can't see your pictures. Sorry I can't offer any advice, except to say that if the previous layer wasn't prepped well, you should probably go ahead and do it this time, which means sanding I suppose.

I'm awaiting other replies since I'm in a similar situation, although I already decided to sand down to the lowest layer of paint.

[Take Time]

Good old block sanding prevents waves. Yes, it's all in the prep. Be carefull of filling the seams with caulk. It will just push out into the paint and look like heck.

Rob

[evansjw44]

If you're asking about getting the hull seams sharp, here's what I do. I have a block of wood with a "V" edge that I wrap with sand paper. I clean out and straighten the grooves with this tool. I also have a Fien Multi-Master tool that has a similar "V" shaped sanding blok. That takes the bull work out of clearing out the grooves. Then I seal the bare wood with Interlux 1026 sealer. I can do two coats in a day. If you're a fan of CPES go ahead. Now I fill the seams with Interlux white seam compound (I forgot the number, 30 or 31 maybe) and smooth them out with my finger dipped in mineral spirits (paint thinner) and wipe the excess off the planks with a dampened rag of paint thinner. The seam compound remains flexible and takes paint. Give the compound a day or two to skin over and prime. I use Interlux 242 flat white instead of primer. It flows out better. Then finish paint. If your hull is wavy, that's just CC. Blcok sanding might take it out or a wizzard with a big disk used with expert care.