Boat cradle

[tbcruiser]

I recently purchased a 1956 26' Express Cruiser intent on refurbishing it. I had a professional survey completed and have a list of things to work on over the next year or two before getting it in the water. Before tackling the bottom work, I've have been researching ideas on being able to flip the boat on it's side. I've searched the Boat Buzz, the Danenberg forum, as well as Google searches finding numerous posts on a variety of things, but not many on a boat of this size. Attached is one interesting concept I found in a post(not my boat but seems to be of similar size). The "hoops" are made of 2" tube steel. Has anyone seen such a cradle in use? Should I be concerned whether my boat will be able to support it's weight when rolled on it's side in such cradle.
Thanks for your input.

[Al Benton]

Welcome to Boat Buzz

First, I'm not sure whuch cruiser you have. Do you know the hull number? The one model that is called an Express Cruiser was built from 1953-1954. Could it be the Sedan with Fly Bridge (1954-1957), hull number series SC-26-xxxx (x's would be numbers between 601 and 1020)?

The express cruiser cabin top and helm windshield may not take the stress of being on its side for a prolonged period. There's just not much holding them onto the hull. I can't immagine how the hull structure could be suspended by the cradles. The stripped out hull would probably weigh close to 2500 pounds and could be stressed beyond its design.

Most curiser bottom repairs are done while the hull is supported on adjustable stands (screw jacks) with blocking under the keel. That may be a better plan for yours as well.

The method in the photo is interesting, I'm just not sure it would work with your cruiser. Keep us posted and feel free to throw questions and comments on the Buzz any time.

Al

[tbcruiser]

Thanks Al,
Yes I've been a bit confused by the nomenclature as well. The survey lists the boat as an Express Cruiser and later in the same report as a Sedan Cruiser. The hull # is SC 26-794
Perhaps I'll just need to plan on working on my back

[Al Benton]

Well, it is an express cruiser, its just that for whar ever reason Chris-Craft elected to call it the Sedan with Fly Bridge. It's about the same size as the earlier 26' Express but was completely redesigned from the keel up and has more cabin space, below deck engine compartment, less aft deck area amoung others.

My 27' Connie, 1960 is pulled, blocked and jacked every 2 or 3 years for routine bottom inspection and painting. Well lately (twice in the last year) she was on a gurney (trailer) for major chine surgery and an engine transplant. She's recovering well.

Al

[57 chris]

Hi TB,
Welcome to the Buzz.

Although my current boats are smaller than yours I too had to work on the bottoms and I just wasn't sure I wanted to turn them over with my limited resources so I did a little creative jacking and blocking to get adequate height so I could work sitting up on a creeper seat. I have also used this method safely on a 25' fiberglass cruiser which allowed me a little more convemience for stripping and re-painting.

[Wood Commander]

In my fantasy world, I want to turn my cruiser over like that with something along the lines of those tubing hoops. I've seen an article in Wooden Boat magazine of somebody doing a large 55' or so cruiser like that. It would be absolutely the best way to do bottom work, but the normal guy just doesn't have the resources or even a building suitable for a project of that magnitude.

The article that I read layed out what is probably the only good way to do this on a large boat. You would have to cut out windows low in the hull sides in order to run cross braces through the boat to FIRMLY attach to the main engine and longitudinal stringers, and out to the hoops, just like where you would want to block under, the strongest part of the boat. And you would need to have the engines and most other hardware and machinery removed.
In my fantasy, I even have the entire pilot house/hardtop removed as well.

Supported like this, and on a good, even floor, I think the structure of the boat could handle the stresses. Although a few extra temporary braces in appropriate places would almost certainly be a good idea.

[tbcruiser]

Thank you all.
I think I am narrowing in on a method. I happen to be building a 30x40 shop that might allow me to flip my cruiser on it's side using the tips and shoring ideas you guys brought up as well as those from the Danenberg forum. As a newbie I sure appreciate the quick and helpful responses.

[Al Benton]

Be sure to keep us posted with your progress. According to Bret, the only big concern may be how to deal with the cabin roof. On your model it would be difficult to remove but I suppose it could be supported in some fashion.

In your first photos the cradles appear to be attached to the keel. what's not shown is how they are attached to the interior. I think what Bret was thinking about was to make openings in the topside planking just above the stringers so the cradle framework could be attached directly to them. The cradle would again be attached at the shear shelf (gunwale, covering boards) at the top of the sides. Some interior diagonal supports may take care of bracing and supporting the cabin roof.

Sounds like an interesting challenge, I wish you well.

Al