How many hours does it take?

[Carefree67]

We have been Chris Craft owners since 9/11 so we have a couple of questions as to how long it takes to do some repairs. Specifically changing the bushing on the prop shaft and removing the prop assembly to replace a wood rudder spacing block. I understand that with the shaft bushing there will be an issue of adjustment once back in the water so that may take time. I am concerned with the quote I received to replace the spacing block. We have a 67 chris craft Crusader. Any time estimates would be appreciated. I know alot of you are do it yourselfers and we plan to be that once we get her where she should be..

[Paul P]

Not an answer per se, but an observation to keep in the back of your mind. When there is a quote given it considers the type of work to be done, the experience of the person who will acutally be doing it, and the amount of time it will take to make the customer happy with quality work. Add a little to that to pay the technician and a little for profit. Be sure the person doing the work is the ASK FOR MAN at the shop. Realize many of these quotes would be rushed with a lesser solution if they were under- funded. I don't like overpaying any more than anyone else but what really gets my goat is when I over-pay, or pay premium dollars, and get a second rate quality and/or response. Now may I please have a ladder to get down off my soap-box, thank you!

regards, good luck,
Paul

[Wood Commander]

First off, we need to pin down exactly what equipment you are talking about.

I can't figure out what you mean by a "wwoden rudder spacing block"?

And a "shaft bushing" might be a prop shaft strut cutless bearing. If it is, the replacement of that item does not usually require a shaft/engine realignment.
If the through-hull packing gland or stuffing box is being called the "shaft bushing", the shaft "floats" in that housing to a small degree. Only a small amount of interference pressure from the packing would have a small influence on shaft support at this point.

When you align a shaft, you are making sure that the propellor shaft is in line with the gearbox output shaft. This is done by adjusting the engine mounts(and therefore the transmission), often wedges, and by checking the fitment and alignment of the gear box output shaft flange with the propellor shaft flange. If either the strut bearing or the stuffing box are messing up this alignment, something is drastically wrong.

Whenever an engine/shaft alignment is done, you need to make sure that there is no hog in the hull, the boat has been launched and in the water for at least a week, and that the shaft and strut are straight and in good condition.

[Carefree67]

And a "shaft bushing" might be a prop shaft strut cutless bearing. If it is, the replacement of that item does not usually require a shaft/engine realignment.

It is the shaft strut bearing (bushing). The one that was there had disintegrated and was in pieces. I am just curious how long it should take someone "in the know" to do this.. Being female and a newer boat owner , I just don't want them to think me totally clueless, should I be paying for 3 hrs labor, 5 hrs labor, 10? And Btw, I did tell the guy that I did not want to be the "test boat" for the newer employees. I wanted Someone familiar with wood boats to do the work.

[Wood Commander]

If all goes well, nothing gaulded together, bolts don't strip or break off, shaft comes loose as it should, etc. I'd think 3 to 5 hours could be in the neighborhood. But parts of the job could require two workers.

A prop puller and an all thread/bar style cutless bearing puller/installer will probably be required.
The shaft will probably have to the set screws loosened and often tough love to get shaft to //come out of the transmission/gearbox coupling up by the engine and get pulled all of the way out of the stuffing box through hull in the sister keel in the boat's bottom, and then on out the hull.

My boat is older and had spiral rope packing material with a packing nut and lock pin keeper safety wired to the strut for the "cutless" (pack more?) bearing set up. All of this gear pushed the spiraled, treated rope packing further and tighter into the strut cylinder and around the shaft until the shaft was sufficiently secured and supported but still free enough to turn easily.

I modified the setup to install the new modern rubberized/Bronze cutless bearing shells. I had to grind away and trim down an ID stop inside the strut bore at the front edge and then drill 5/16" x 18 les through the outer strut housing for stainless set screws that hold the cutless shell from moving or falling out.

So it is quite likely that there can be more involved in these projects that show up after mettelurgical surgry begins.

[Carefree67]

Thanks Bret. My husband and I will be bringing her to Seattle on July 12. Would love to pick your brain more since we are in the same "area". Send me an email if you can make it to Bell Harbor Marina that evening.

[Wood Commander]

I'd be glad to help you, but I've moved to the Fort Worth, TX and Eagle Mountain Lake area. And there could possibly be more moving in my future, but it probably won't be back to the Seattle area- job related issues.

But there are some VERY good people in the Pacific Northwest Chapter of the ACBS. They usually meet at The Center for Wooden Boats at South Lake Union in Seattle on the second Wednesday of every month. I HIGHLY recommend that you check them out and tell them Bret sent you, LOL!