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Slow cranking Chris

Your old Chris-Craft electrical system can be a challenge. If it runs on "juice" pose your questions and offer your advice here.

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1971vet
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Slow cranking Chris

Post by 1971vet » Fri Sep 19, 2008 7:06 am

After many years of use I have a problem with the starting system on my 1959 Chris with the 283 V8. The engine turns over slower and after a few cranks it will not turn over for a short time. I have been told that it gets too warm (starter) and then cools down and cranks again. I had the starter torn down and new solenoid put in but it still cranks slow. My generator man said that if I put in another solenoid in line (2 solenoids in line) that my problem will go away. He states because of the distance between battery,key,and engine the extra solenoid will solve the slow cranking and starting problem. The engine only has 150 hours and runs very strong so I don't feel the problem is with the engine. All help would be appreciated. Don J

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evansjw44
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Slow Crank

Post by evansjw44 » Fri Sep 19, 2008 7:29 pm

Your starter/generator guy thinks you have a '59 Chevy car. Your 283s were built with Prestolite starters. Chevy cars had Delco starters that used the starter solenoid to engage the starter with the flywheel and turn on the starter. Prestolite starters used a Bendix drive that operates entirely differently. Its possible some on substituted a Delco starter for your Prestolite. I would be looking at the connection of the negative battery cable to the block. Its got to be clean to carry the high current of the starter. CC used generous battery cables when your boat was built but someone might have put smaller cables on as a replacement. They may also have installed battery switch and lenghtened the cables substantially.

I'd place my bet on an undersized battery cable or a bad connection. Do check that you have the Prestolite starter.

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campjer
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Post by campjer » Sat Sep 20, 2008 7:01 am

In addition to checking your connections, there are a couple of other things of notable mention. After you're convinced that your connections are solid (take a multi-metre and do a reading off your starter with the key in the "on" position). Also ensure that your battery amperage is high. Even if a battery reads 13-volts, it may not have 100% of it's amperage charge... check water levels in battery (if not maintenance free). I have a new smart charger hooked up to my inline batteries for my 283's. 100-amp starting on the charger has always cured my slow cranking issues. Don't skimp on the battery charger as it can be such a life saver - 100-amp starting option is a must. Honestly - your issue sounds like a cranking-amp issue over anything else...BUT there are a few other things if the above doesn't solve it:

Once you've ruled out the battery (hopefully that's as far as you need to go) - I'd pop your distribute cap off and watch for the spark in your points. Simply turn the engine over for a few seconds so the entire engine get's 2 or 3 revolutions on all cylinders. You should see a constant strong spark on the points. If not - this can usually be remedied by re-gapping it (just use a cigarette package cardboard for the gap - it's perfect).

If you're convinced the spark is present and strong - the next step would be to ensure you're getting spark to each of your plugs. Pop each plug (only one at a time!) Reset it in it's appropriate wire. Hold it to a major ground (bolt from the carb is good - or a lift mount). Crank the engine - visually see that spark on EACH cylinder is good. If you have weak spark on random cylinders - change or clean the plugs.

In the above, while turning the engine over - also check for discharge from the cylinder when you turn it over. It's possible that if flooding, you may have vapour lock in a cylinder - turning it over will expel the fuel build up in the cylinder (usually cylinders towards the rear of the engine) out the plug hole onto your boat. (Obviously take precautions not to ignite the discharge!)

If you're still having issues on the slow cranking - and if spark is weak throughout - you may need a new coil and condenser. Newer coils typically have an internal resistor, whereas the original marine coils have an external resistor which can be discarded with the new style.

The above "should" eliminate your issue at some stage in the trial-and-error process. There are a couple of other things, but these are your first steps - give us a progress update when you've gone through the steps.
Cheers,
Jeremy Campbell

Current Projects:
'61 32' Connie
'61 45' Connie (RIP)
'50 42' DCFB

Wet Dreams:
'61 57' Connie

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evansjw44
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Missed the Obvious

Post by evansjw44 » Sat Sep 20, 2008 2:54 pm

I missed the most common starting issue. Batteries are prone to having "high resistance" internal connections. That means they simply cannot maintain thier terminal voltage and deliver high currents like for starting. You need to connect a voltmeter directly to the battery teminal, not to the battery cable connections, and then crank the engine. you have turned off and Before you try this you have turn off any battery charger so that and the battery at rest for a half hour or so. Before the engine is cranked it should read 12.6 volts. When you crank the engine the voltages should not drop below 10 volts. Even 10 is a little low but is enough to deliver brisk cranking. A battery with high internal resistance will show cranking voltage at 10 or less. Some even go almost to zero and the stater solenoid will chatter.

gcheaney
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slow starting starter

Post by gcheaney » Mon Oct 06, 2008 10:19 am

After you know everything thats been suggested cks
out correctly and you still have a slow starting problem.

These Prestolite starters had either 2 heavy wound
field coils with a shunt coil or 3 heavy wound field coils with a shunt coil.

There is another replacement set that has 4 heavy
wound field coils and is the most powerful.

It could be your starter fines itself in a situation that requires more ability than it has currently?

Most auto electric shops dont have a starter load tester. I do an it can be seem at

http://acewichita.com/06_vintage.htm

If you wish to chat with me about this 239 821-6548
7 days

Good luck,

Glenn

63Connie
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Post by 63Connie » Mon Feb 09, 2009 9:25 pm

It sounds like the starter has gotten hot sometime in the past. That happened to me. the solinoid should have nothing to do with it, neither spark to the cylinders or any of that. I would have the starter gone through if it was mine. Check brushes, amrature.. ect.
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