Looking for some advise on drilling a 2 3/4 hole in my transom (new wood) for the exhaust pipe. Planking is straight up and down but has a curve from side to side. Thanks in advance.
Tom
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Exhaust hole in transom
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- maritimeclassics
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Re: Exhaust hole in transom
Tom, use a hole saw and drill from the outside till you see that the center drill has gone through, then drill for the inside out so you don"t tear out the wood. It should have a 3/4 block on the inside for the tube to go through as well as he 1/2 planking for strength and so the screws for the trim ring to go into. You must be getting close!
Family member of Chris Craft founder
Owner of Maritime Classics
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Ph# 231-486-6148
Restoration Projects:
1936 25' Gar Wood Custom
1947 Ventnor Hydroplane
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1937 25' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
Owner of Maritime Classics
http://www.maritimeclassics.com
Ph# 231-486-6148
Restoration Projects:
1936 25' Gar Wood Custom
1947 Ventnor Hydroplane
1957 17' Deluxe Runabout
1948 25' Chris Craft Sportsman Twin
1959 19' Sliver Arrow Hull #75
1929 26' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
1937 25' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
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Re: Exhaust hole in transom
Thanks Mike!! Worked great.
The 3/4 block that is on the inside, is it held in place with the trim ring screws? Or other screws from the outside in (under the trim ring) or inside out?
The 3/4 block that is on the inside, is it held in place with the trim ring screws? Or other screws from the outside in (under the trim ring) or inside out?
- maritimeclassics
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- Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2007 4:35 pm
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Re: Exhaust hole in transom
Most of the time when I take them out they have just a couple screws in them, it seems like they try to put them inline with some other screws in the transom but sometimes they are just kinda where ever. They are usually from the outside in. I think with only a 1/2 inch plank if you go the other way you may develop cracks from the tips of the screws on the outside over time.
Family member of Chris Craft founder
Owner of Maritime Classics
http://www.maritimeclassics.com
Ph# 231-486-6148
Restoration Projects:
1936 25' Gar Wood Custom
1947 Ventnor Hydroplane
1957 17' Deluxe Runabout
1948 25' Chris Craft Sportsman Twin
1959 19' Sliver Arrow Hull #75
1929 26' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
1937 25' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
Owner of Maritime Classics
http://www.maritimeclassics.com
Ph# 231-486-6148
Restoration Projects:
1936 25' Gar Wood Custom
1947 Ventnor Hydroplane
1957 17' Deluxe Runabout
1948 25' Chris Craft Sportsman Twin
1959 19' Sliver Arrow Hull #75
1929 26' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
1937 25' Chris Craft Custom Runabout
- DennyDowning
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Re: Exhaust hole in transom
Hi Tom,
Had the same issue on my boat.
The "Backer Block" was slready supposed to be in there.
Opps... I did the same thing.
I made the backer block, crawling under that rear deck to do it was no fun but necessary, out of a piece of 1" mahogany. It is difficult because it should conform to the curve of the transom. Then it needs to fit between the uprights of the transom frame and the hole needs to be aligned as well. It took me two trys but I got it. I did screw it from inside using four screws. Two screws through the inner frame and then two screws "toenail" into the outer frame. Leave clearance for the exhaust pipe but not so much that the trim ring screws will miss it. After it was all prefit in place and I knew it was good I removed the backer block and painted it. The paint keeps the wood from sucking all the oil out of the bedding. After the paint was dry I bedded it in with bedding and put the four screws back in. Dang small space but doable.
Looking good!
Denny
Had the same issue on my boat.
The "Backer Block" was slready supposed to be in there.
Opps... I did the same thing.
I made the backer block, crawling under that rear deck to do it was no fun but necessary, out of a piece of 1" mahogany. It is difficult because it should conform to the curve of the transom. Then it needs to fit between the uprights of the transom frame and the hole needs to be aligned as well. It took me two trys but I got it. I did screw it from inside using four screws. Two screws through the inner frame and then two screws "toenail" into the outer frame. Leave clearance for the exhaust pipe but not so much that the trim ring screws will miss it. After it was all prefit in place and I knew it was good I removed the backer block and painted it. The paint keeps the wood from sucking all the oil out of the bedding. After the paint was dry I bedded it in with bedding and put the four screws back in. Dang small space but doable.
Looking good!
Denny
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