Accident Repair

Take Time · Post by **Take Time** » Mon Feb 02, 2009 12:26 am

It was not a good weekend on the water. Needless to say I have fresh damage to the side of my Connie. I have a 12" section of two planks that did not like the dock. The damage is above the waterline and is between the ribs. When replacing replacing a damaged section of plank(S), can you go past the damaged section by a couple of ribs or do you replace the whole plank?

I did feel better when we towed a stranded boat back to same dock where the damaged occured. The dock was fine.

Thanks,
Rob

evansjw44 · Post by **evansjw44** » Mon Feb 02, 2009 8:57 am

It might be tough to replace a whole plank. It depends on how long it is and where the joints are and how much bend is in it. Replacing the whole plank is the prefered solution to most. But you can easily take out the damaged section. You'll want to have the joints between ribs and back them with 3/4 plywood. If there are two planks the the joints should be staggered and not staircased.

Its not that hard to set in pieces just take your time. For a good boatwright that less than a days work for the wood work. Remember to finish the backside. No Raw Wood. I wouldn't glue the joints either.

I had to replace a shear plank about 7 ft long. I had a real hard time getting the bend in it.

Al Benton · Post by **Al Benton** » Mon Feb 02, 2009 9:14 am

I had a pro replace a damaged topside plank for me. He told me it wouldn't cost any more to replace the whole plank or any less to replace just 5' of it. He got to replace the whole thing.

I replaced a 4 or 5' section of shear plank by myself a few years ago that had some damage. I'll always know where the repair was made and can point it out to folks but they couldn't find it by looking, not even the pro who did the other plank.

Al

ed laning · Post by **ed laning** » Tue Feb 03, 2009 5:51 am

I agree with the statement made by Al's Boatwright that it's prettymuch the same cost to replace an entire board as it is to do only five feet. Obviously it's more material but the labor cost is the big part. Two rules to certainly follow are: no joint should be closer to another joint than three feet and: never end a board on a frame; it must end on a butt block. I've always used mahogany butt blocks. If you replace the whole board it will help to assure these rules, although I have seen occasions where CC did not follow along. Nice pulled seams you have there. Appears that one of them slopes downward giving me the clue that the affected board is just forward of midship, at the beam. That area of the topsides is fairly straight. I'd go for the whole board replacement. I use a belt sander to remove all the paint from the old one. This exposes the screw locations. With an ice pick I remove the putty that covers the screw heads and dig out the x groove. With a R&P screwdriver and a hammer, to help get the screwdriver into the x slot, I tap and turn. After it's obvious the screw is loosened I move to the next one. I come back later with a cordless screwdriver and spin them out the rest of the way. It's very helpful to keep the board in one piece for the purpose of using it as a template for the replacement board. This project is not all that difficult. It illustrates how wood boats are infinitely repairable. I'd much rather do this than have to tackle the same repair on one of my plastic boats. Keep us posted on your progress. Ed

ed laning · Post by **ed laning** » Tue Feb 03, 2009 7:51 am

I have re-looked at the image of your boat. Maybe that is not an angle in the pulled seam. Could it be the hull is pushed inward in this damaged area? Ed

Take Time · Post by **Take Time** » Tue Feb 03, 2009 8:47 am

Ed,

The damaged area is midship. "Take Time" is a 30' Connie and the damaged area is 13' from the stern. The top board broke clean through and the bottom board is cracked and pushed in. Thanks for all of the help on this one. I have had her for 2 years and have been doing mostly refinish work, no heavy construction.

Thanks,
Rob

Al Benton · Post by **Al Benton** » Tue Feb 03, 2009 10:46 am

Rob,
You may be ok with the frames, although they should be checked. Fortunately, the damage is about in the area of your Dinette which is less work to get to than other areas for interior inspection, if you so choose to have a look. You'll have large exterior access after the planks are removed that may sufficient to inspect the frames.

The seam batten between the planks is probably cracked or broken. This will need to be repaired as well. Back it with the same dimension wood between frames and paint it. It's usually 1-1/2" wide x 3/4" stock.

The reason you use butt blocks between frames on plank joints is to assure that the joint pulls in and follows the the same contour or curve as full planks above and below the joined planks. One row of screws on a frame will not pull the plank into the proper contour. Two rows of screws (minimum) are used on both planks at a butt joint.

Al

Take Time · Post by **Take Time** » Tue Feb 03, 2009 11:06 am

Al,

When splicing a plank joint, are the planks cut at a 90 degree angle?

Thanks,
Rob

Al Benton · Post by **Al Benton** » Tue Feb 03, 2009 12:25 pm

Yes, Rob,

You want a straight clean 90 deg. cut so the two butt tightly. Wood swelling doesn't affect its length much so the tighter, the better. The hard part is getting a clean cut on the plank end that's still on the boat. Maybe that's why the pros prefer to replace the entire original plank. I'll ask.

Al

ed laning · Post by **ed laning** » Tue Feb 03, 2009 12:27 pm

Another reason for a plank end on a butt board instead of a frame is because the endgrain of boards sometimes have a tendacy to develop some rot. This rot could transfer to a frame so better to have rot transfer to a butt board instead. Ed

Al Benton · Post by **Al Benton** » Tue Feb 03, 2009 1:01 pm

Ed,

I had not heard that before. Thanks for pointing it out.

Al

jstolte · Post by **jstolte** » Tue Feb 03, 2009 2:12 pm

I have a similar situation.

Whilst having transmission problems, in a strong wind, we got blown into a bulkhead that had large protruding bolts. Couldn't get her off of it...

These pictures show the resultant damage.

I'm pretty sure that none of this is through and through...

Do these planks need to be replaced, or is there a suitable method for filling them?

If it can be filled, what is recommended as the filler?

ed laning · Post by **ed laning** » Tue Feb 03, 2009 6:03 pm

Small shallow gouges that show no evidence of rot can be considered a candidate for a mixture of epoxy resin thickened with Cab-o-sil. Thicken to the consistancy of peanut butter. First apply a sealer like CPES on the bare wood. Then sand it smooth, prime and paint. Not so good if it affects the seam. Seams need to move. A dutchman would be a preferred method and these are quite easy to do. Painted topsides enjoy these advantages that one could never get away with on a varnished runabout. Just my 2 cents. Ed

jstolte · Post by **jstolte** » Tue Feb 03, 2009 10:43 pm

Thank you sir!

That is what I needed to hear.

While I can see how the Dutchman might be a better choice, I don't think it is right for me, due to not possessing the tools nor talent.

But just out of curiosity, how would the Dutchman deal with the seam? I'm pretty sure there is a seam involved in the largest of the gouges.

Thanks again

John

Al Benton · Post by **Al Benton** » Wed Feb 04, 2009 12:50 am

John,

I've never done it but I think it could be done with two separate pieces of wood, one for each plank. The trick would be in keeping them from being glued together. Maybe a thin metal strip that's pulled out before the adhesive cures. Would adhesive stick to the metal strip if it were waxed? That may take some experimenting.

Al

ed laning · Post by **ed laning** » Wed Feb 04, 2009 5:18 am

Yes, the dutchmen is the preferred method. Al is right in saying it can be done with a metal strip placed inbetween. I've done that with the metal coated w/ wax. But if I were making your repair I would do it as two separate dutchman. You can cut out the opening from each board and then fashion the dutchman for one making it so the edge lines up to the seam edge of the rest of the plank. Making a dutchman fit well is time well spent. Get it all completed sans finish. Then do the other keeping the proper gap of the seam. Apply sealer, seam compound, primer and finish coats. The epoxy approach is not good when involving work at the seam. I think it's actually more difficult than a dutchman, you must maintain the seam gap. Ed

jstolte · Post by **jstolte** » Wed Feb 04, 2009 10:07 am

Gentleman,

Thank you for your sage advice....

John

Take Time · Post by **Take Time** » Thu Feb 19, 2009 10:41 pm

First of all thanks for the great advice on this one. The damage was worse than I thought. It was three planks and a frame. Needless to say, the boat was hauled out by Aments Marine in Isleton, Ca this week. Should have her back in the water in a week or so.

Thanks Again,
Rob

Take Time · Post by **Take Time** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 10:11 pm

Well the damage was worse than I thought.

Rob

Take Time · Post by **Take Time** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 10:27 pm

Just kidding on the last post. The other boat is another project at the boat yard. You have to give credit to both the owner and Ament Marine to take on the project. Our boat should be back in the water in a week or so.

Rob

Al Benton · Post by **Al Benton** » Tue Feb 24, 2009 12:49 am

Well, Rob,
You had me going for a while. I scanned down to your first pic and started using terms and phrases that I don't usually use, even when I'm alone. I even scanned back to your original post to do some comparring. Then on my way back down I saw your last post. What a relief!
Al

Take Time · Post by **Take Time** » Tue Feb 24, 2009 10:58 pm

Al,

Sorry for the worry and thanks for all the advise the crew has given me. But, you have to admit that there is some serious construction going on the "Big" Connie. The main culprut on the other one was leaking windows.

For future help, is there a source for the window track for 60's Connie?

Rob

Take Time · Post by **Take Time** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 10:33 pm

There is plus of hauling your boat out for work in the winter, quick turn around time. The negative is cruising up river in flooded conditions. There were several logs(trees) floating down stream. Thanks again for all the support. The following picture is of the repaired damage.

Rob

Al Benton · Post by **Al Benton** » Sun Mar 01, 2009 5:41 pm

Rob,

The repair looks great. It appears that planks were replaced to nearest original end. Is this correct?

Al

Take Time · Post by **Take Time** » Mon Mar 02, 2009 10:16 pm

Al,

There were a total of three planks replaced, plus one frame. The planks were replaced in in 10' sections and kept the original lines. There was one plus of this haul out, the transom. It had been painted by the previous owner and the finish was very rough. We wanted to see what was under the paint and are we are happy with the results.

The transom is now awaiting the new gold leaf decal, with blue trim. If anyone is looking for graphics, don't forget Fast Signs. We should be able to aply the new decal in a couple of weeks, then put on a few coats of Cetol to finish.

Rob

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