Your boat would be a pre-war boat. Here is a video I did about staining a pre-war Chris Craft if you have any questions let us know. https://youtu.be/92LepvReAtw

We use BoatLIFE Life-Calk Mahogany color.

We use BoatLife to bed most under water hardware but SikaFlex will work just fine.

Our traveling covers we use al inner cover made of a car cover soft felt on the inside that goes down to bottom of the chine that fits the boat tight. Then and outer cover that goes down about 3 inches under the boat that is also tight fitted. Then we strap that outer cover to the trailer so wind do...

That’s the way we do it in northern Michigan. We do not drain the water anymore because we have had too many problems over the years with rusted treads and it is hard to remove and reinstall the petcocks or plugs. We just use an extra gallon of antifreeze. We go through 6 gallons to make sure the bl...

Dave Moore at Northwood Boatworks most likely has one. 231-331-6516

Here is a video I made of the Cobra we stained. I do have another video out about staining on youtube so you may want to check that out. We are doing a video on varnishing so you may want to subscribe and check that out. Hope this helps.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YLJxi6HcKnA&t=7s

It happens all the time. Just tape off the seam and push in some more sikaflex, smooth it out and then paint the seam white. You can't stop it, but you can reduce it by adding a little more caulk. I would not use the cotton method because your planks are not thick enough and they are not beveled to ...

You came to the right place, there are a lot of guys that can help you get it sorted out on the Buzz. We would need a little more help with what you need with the bottom stuff and pictures would help for us to see the condition. The varnishing and stuff you may find some help on my channel so look a...

We use SikaFlex lot 291 for all seams and it works very well.

It is original and called fiber board. We get the stuff from Menard’s and then paint it white for insides of engine boxes or whatever color needed for bulkheads or behind the seats to engine compartments.

You for sure want to use epoxy gluing joints also the traditional 5200 bottom is the best in my opinion. We are doing 4 right now and making some teaching videos on the methods used. Hope this help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ukBhmnwl6U

I've seen them built in a few different ways but mostly they were made from pine or butternut front and back and bottom and then deck planking for the sides which would be 3/8 to 1/2 mahogany. The dimensions are just as the artical was written with screws and nails. I have even seen deck seams in th...

They are under the rubber bottom gasket. Should be 2 fasteners on each corner, then 2 on the side at the bottom corners then the bottom frame can drop down.

My cruiser is stamped in a couple of places. One is on the hatches for the engine and also look on the bottom of your floorboards. Dig a round, you should find it.

Make sure you have power. It should be hooked directly to the positive battery terminal, then turn the pump upside down and it should turn on. Some pumps though need an external float switch.

I use West System epoxy.

Drill it out to make sure you have clean wood on the edges of the hole. Make a plug out of some mahogany and epoxy it in. Fair it out and prime and paint.

There were a couple of different kinds used. What year?

This is what I do and most of the time it works. Obviously you have put in new packing and when your tightening it on the shaft for the first time do it by hand as tight as you can get it. Then with a wrench give it a quarter turn and most of the time this is the right amount. You will have to check...

I have used a tooth pick to paint them.

I have used it before and really didn't work for me personally. We go through gallons of varnish here at the shop and I mean literally gallons. I found that it is more expensive to use for one and I loose my place when varnishing because you can not see your wet edge. The first 2 coats work great bu...

I may be able to help, I can't be at you shop but I am making a series of videos on YouTube that is aimed at helping people restore there boats. If there is something particular that you are looking for I may be able to help you through a detailed video. Take a look at some video's that I have and i...

Not sure of the sheen of the paints way back but most of the hull paints today are gloss. It gives better protection if it is gloss and hard like a Pettit Easyepoxy white. That's what we always use and is what on my boat and its been on there for a few years now and looks great.

I have never seen a plank layout drawing that would be for your boat or any other that is detailed enough to make planks for a boat. I would go with red meranti mahogany for the material. The best way to get the measurements for the planking is to take the sides off. I am wondering if you have a new...

We have done a couple of 17' deluxe model Chris craft and always go to 1/2 inch planking. You are only talking 1/16th of an inch and it makes for a stronger boat and you don't have to worry about fairing if you frames are fair. I would go with 6/4 lumber re-sawn in half then plane to 1/2 inch thick....

You could if you wanted to but the crack is pretty thin and the keel is fastened to the large transom frame with 2 large screws. Then the rudder log is bolted through the keel into a 3/4 inch block of wood that I believe on that boat is fastened to the stringers so there's no worries of structural f...

Epoxy with some filler would be best. Make sure it's cleaned out and dry then mix up some west system epoxy and some 404 filler until its the consistency of peanut butter. Fill the crack completely, let it dry and then sand flat.

Steve, the saw and router method works for sure but my only concern is one false move and your deck is ruined. I go with the chisel method which probably takes longer but much safer in a couple different ways, at least that's the way I have taught my guys to do it. This method is for someone not sup...

We do it by hand with a very sharp 3/4 inch chisel. Lay the old deck out on the floor so you have something to look at when you need to. Then take the windshield and position it one the old deck just to see how it sits there (you may have forgotten if you took the boat apart a while ago) to remind y...